One thing I've never done is install brand-new coil springs. I've got a new set of springs that are waaaaaay too long for my Mustang II front end. They came with the chassis from Outlaw.
I know I'm going to be cutting, got that covered. Anyone have any hints for getting close on the first cut... otherwise it's trial and error. They're black if that's any help.
Wheels and tires are due mid-week. I'm really eager to see her on her own four feet.
If it's an after market MII suspension and they are 'waaay too long', then they are the wrong springs. Find out from your supplier and either return the incorrect ones or purchase the correct springs as I had to do to get the right spring rate for my '31. Cutting springs is an 'iffy' project any time as you really have no idea what height or spring rate you have afterwards.
I can't imagine Outlaw would send out the wrong coils after 25+ years sending out '34 coupes/chassis, so I did some poking around last night (how did we get ANYTHING done pre-internet?) I found this:
This is a cool site, and I'm going to keep them bookmarked for future reference.
It seems my coils are not that far off (14.5" free height).... I'm going to need a set of compressors to get them to set in place. There is no way to drop the lower enough to get them in.
Of course, to set the stance I may need to cut a bit... we'll see.
I can't imagine Outlaw would send out the wrong coils after 25+ years sending out '34 coupes/chassis, so I did some poking around last night (how did we get ANYTHING done pre-internet?) I found this:
W-e-e-l-l since my car has a $tage 3 TCI chassis under it and I received the wrong springs - TWICE. Then the motor mounts installed incorrectly 1 plus inches too far back, past shipping and manufacturing practices is a not a very good argument when you consider TCI's very old reputation. I finally purchased the CORRECT springs elsewhere at my expense, redid the firewall to accept the recessed engine (and that actually looks better but at the cost of leg room for my height).
Just be aware when you cut a spring, you increase it's rate. Think of it if the spring were unwound and straight. The longer it is, the easier you could bend it. as you cut it shorter, it is harder to bend.
When I was an engineer at Ford I was mentoring a kid that worked on the assembly line and was road racing a Pinto in what I think was called Mini Stocks. I ran a copy of the engineering specifications of available springs. The factory used 11 different ones and the chart cross referenced what car, M II or Pinto and what options and also gave ride height . At that time quite a few racers were using 53 chevy replacement springs and I think trimming them. If you trim then it is best to use a die grinder with an abrasive blade and just trim a little at a time and test drive it for a while before taking a second bite.
When I was an engineer at Ford I was mentoring a kid that worked on the assembly line and was road racing a Pinto in what I think was called Mini Stocks. I ran a copy of the engineering specifications of available springs. The factory used 11 different ones and the chart cross referenced what car, M II or Pinto and what options and also gave ride height . At that time quite a few racers were using 53 chevy replacement springs and I think trimming them. If you trim then it is best to use a die grinder with an abrasive blade and just trim a little at a time and test drive it for a while before taking a second bite.
good advice ...but removing a spring for a little cutting bit at a time! could get frustrating ~~~~~~~spoken by one whose been there ...way way back in time.
I've determined that these springs are not correct. I did manage to cram one in and then jacked up the lower.
I lifted the frame off the stand and the ball joint bolt was still 2" from its seat hole. The engine and trans are in.
There's no way that's right. - Unless this is a really stiff spring meant to be cut to size (as Don said), and it's really stiff to cut down on travel. Some guys bury the tire up inside the fender, so you wouldn't want a whole lot of travel. Perhaps?
This is what a TCI MII front end look like with the right length spring and adjusted to the correct ride height. At installation the ball joint was perhaps a bit less then half inch from being fully seated and the nut installed a few threads and with the spring adjusters just engaged on the shock.
Ya gotta call Outlaw and ask them what length spring you need instead of guessing. The compression rate you should figure yourself. This is a guideline from Speedway's AFCO spring line and the basis for what I used on my '31 - and it worked out great: http://static.speedwaymotors.com/images/charts/AFCOIL.gif
I've made the assumption that since it's a well known street rod supplier (Outlaw) that he has at least gone the route of a decent coil over for an aftermarket 'glass '33-'34 Ford with their chassis.
But then I've been wrong more times then I'll ever admitain:
I'd install without cutting, get it on wheels and weight on the front, and "see" before you cut..
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hot Rod Forum
2.2M posts
175.6K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to hot rod owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!