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Old 04-15-2003, 06:50 PM
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Post New Drums Won't Slide On...

Continuing story of my '90 Jeep Cherikee (Tow car to my son's "HotRod" RX7 T2). Thanks for all of your help on this three month Brake install ordeal. Found lots of cracks in my Flares, replaced the Combination Valve, mainly found that there was nothing, absolutely nothing, left of the Pads and Shoes, and the Rear Wheel Cylinders were leaking and blown out. No wonder I couldn't get this thing to bleed.

So everything is now new and I am down to replacing the rear Shoes and Drums. I eliminated the Rear Self-Adjusting Parts. Way too many parts to reassemble so I'll do the adjusting with the Star Adjuster and a Spoon.

The big deal now is that I have installed new Shoes, but the new Drums won't fit over them. Even the old Drums (very old and scored) won't fit over the new shoes. The Star Adjuster is adjusted all of the way in. Any ideas on this?
They should fit. They are the same size as the originals, except that they actually have shoe material instead of just steel.

Thanks, Bob

(Maybe if I smear some grease on them they will slide on better...Ha!)

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Old 04-15-2003, 07:01 PM
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Loosen up your emergency brake cable and the shoes will collapse more and then the drums will go on.
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Old 04-17-2003, 05:19 AM
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I'll do the updates on this Thread since the other got too long.

I got the new Rear Drums on. I had the Adjuster mounted in the wrong location and is was pushing the Shoes out too far. (NOTE IN FUTURE: Only take one side apart at a time so you can see how they go back on!!!)

So everything is now new on this car. Pads, Shoes, Lines, MC, Combo Valve, Emerg Brk Cable, Drums, Whl Cyl's, etc. No leaks and when doing a two-man bleed, I get lots of good, clear, no-bubble squirts.

PROBLEM: The Pedal still goes right to the floor. I get some slight brake action and can stop the car with enough room, but no normal lock up or hard pedal. I can see the return squirts in the MC so I know that both Chambers are working. If I had any Air in the Lines, I would be able to pump them up. During Bleeding, the squirts were pretty good so I know that the MC is working well.

So what's the problem? I did a Bench Bleed of the MC plus an in-car bleed with the Temp Flex Tubes back into the Chambers. No air at all.

If I had some air in the lines, wouldn't I be able to pump them up? Does this seem to be more of an "air in the MC" problem and that's why, even with the lines clear, I am not getting much Pedal.

About ready (for the fourth time) to donate the car to the SPCA.

So everything is new and I can't see any leaks. Third MC (2 AutoZone's plus the original).

BNOTE: With the engine OFF, it feels like I have Pedal Pressure and can really stand on it. That's how I tested for Leaks. With it ON, the Pedal goes right to the floor.

Ideas?

Thanks, Bob/Turbo2Sam
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Old 04-17-2003, 05:33 AM
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Just read on another HR's Brake
Thread about the "button" on the front of the Conditioning Valve and that there is some type of Pin inside of it to allow for proper Bleeding. (Push the Pin to allow it to go into the 50/50 mode instead of the normal 70/30 mode). Is this a myth or something that I should look into.

Also, on another, I read that I should adjust the new Rear Shoes a bit tighter. I'll try that too and let you know. Thanks, Bob/Turbo2Sam
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