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Old 11-29-2009, 11:56 AM
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new engine break in oil

what oil is suggested for a new engine break in? 350 chevy.

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Old 11-29-2009, 12:50 PM
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I myself use the same oil that I'm going to use all the time and I have no problem ,hope this helps
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:24 PM
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If this is with a flat tappet cam, use something with a high zddp content. Valvoline VR-1 Racing is the easiest for most to find, Brad Penn has a break- in oil, as does Comp Cams. Or you can add a zddp break-in additive to the oil of your choice.
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Old 11-29-2009, 02:35 PM
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break in oil.

How long should the engine be run on the innitial start up before the break in oil is changed?
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Old 11-29-2009, 03:02 PM
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I break in the cam then change the oil and filter. Next I run the next batch 500 miles and I change it. Last I run it the typical 3000 miles then change it.
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Old 11-29-2009, 03:08 PM
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I just broke in the 350/290 SBC and they suggest after just a few miles of use. I went a couple hundered miles. Here's the advice I cut and pasted frm the 2008 GM performance book. Hope this helps.

Break-In Procedures
After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the correct (refer to instruction sheets that come
with the crate engine) motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as
required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Do this by using an engine oil priming tool. If you do not have one,
one can be obtained through GM, part number 12368084. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. This is the sure
way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended
periods of time.
Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car
cannot fall into gear.
Start the engine and adjust the initial timing. Set the ignition timing to timing specified in the instruction sheet and the
engine idle to the speed as specified in the instruction sheet. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the
timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected.
When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump
and water temperature to reach 180 F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.
Once the engine is warm, set the total advance timing as specified in the instruction sheet.
The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle
(WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.
Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 rpm and 55 mph (if application is a vehicle), and back
to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 5000 rpm and 55 mph (if application is a vehicle), and
back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
Change the oil and filter. Replace with 20W50 racing motor oil (not synthetic) and an ACDelco oil filter. Inspect the oil and
the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
Drive the next 500 miles (or 12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated
engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is
functioning properly.
Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would only be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended
oil change and mileage accumulation.
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Old 11-29-2009, 03:19 PM
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WHAT ?? Did I miss something ?

Where's the part about 2000 RPM for 20 minutes ??

Have I been doing this wrong all these years ?


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Old 11-29-2009, 03:48 PM
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The above procedure is for a late model engine with a roller camshaft, A new flat tappet camshaft still requires a 2000 rpm 20 minute run-in.

Vince
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Old 11-29-2009, 03:52 PM
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Thanks, Vince.

Next time I'll look into a Roller.

I really hate that 20 minute deal !!


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Old 11-29-2009, 04:24 PM
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I had lots of cam trouble with my 468 15 mins into break in i would lose a cam lobe done that three times before i pulled the motor out an took it to a machine shop. Had lifter bores checked everything was fine so i called comp the tech said the best oil to use is rotella an get a bottle of comp break in additive. The rotella an comp oil was a whole lot cheaper than all those cams an i still run both in my truck.
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Old 11-29-2009, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 468c-10
I had lots of cam trouble with my 468 15 mins into break in i would lose a cam lobe done that three times before i pulled the motor out an took it to a machine shop. Had lifter bores checked everything was fine so i called comp the tech said the best oil to use is rotella an get a bottle of comp break in additive. The rotella an comp oil was a whole lot cheaper than all those cams an i still run both in my truck.
We have a lot of farm equipment and I do use Rotella but it now is "SM" rated and may not have enough ZDDP additive---- on it's own---in the newer products. Good thing you used the Comp additive. Here's a quote from someone else on the "Bob is the oil guy" forum.


"Over on the VOA forum there was a debate about the zinc and phosphorus levels of the Rotella T 15W-40. I thought I'd e-mail Shell and ask what they claimed. Here's what they said:
"Shell Rotella T Multigrade Oil SAE 15W-40 with Triple Protection Technology, our API CJ-4/SM specification product, typically contains about 1200 ppm zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorous as manufactured."


The best way is to use an additive for break in or get the right oil. 1100-1200 ZDDP is likely not enough. I saw a specific dino break-in oil at Jegs or Summit but can't recall. I used the Comp Cams additive last time and did the 2000 rpm thing even though I think that's probably only for the super hot cam engine. GM doesn't break in hot engines at 2000 RPM.
This low ZDDP thing concerns me because of my flat tappet cars and farm engines that require it. Deere oils 15W40 dino and 0W40 synthetic have plenty of ZDDP so I use them where I can. Next engine will be the Jeg's or Smmit break in oil. Most ZDDp numbers can be searched on the internet.
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Old 11-29-2009, 09:22 PM
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John Deere break in oil is all I will use For the first 500 miles or so on a street build. After 500 I use Mobil 1.
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougj169 View Post
John Deere break in oil is all I will use For the first 500 miles or so on a street build. After 500 I use Mobil 1.

"Important: DO NOT use John Deere Plus-50 oil or engine oils meeting API CG4, API CF4, ACEA E3, ACEA E2, or CCMC D5 performance levels during the first 100 hours of operation ( or additional periods of break-in that may be required) of a new or rebuilt engine. These oils will not allow the engine to break-in properly."

When should I switch from break-in oil to Plus-50™ engine oil? : Engine break-in oil recommendations.
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:16 PM
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This is what I use in flat tappet engines. The Moly and zinc really help avoid initial start up scuffing and wear and reduce wear in high perf flat tappet valvetrains too.

The GM EOS is good too. I do not drain the break in oil, as it takes more than 1/2 hour to break in a street motor. But you can change the oil filter after 1/2 hour of running.
Leave the break in oil and the Moly slip E oil suplement in for 1000 miles. then change the oil and add
more Moly slip E

Moly Slip E oil Supplement
Molyslip Canada Inc. :: Molybdenum Lubricants, Performance Lubricants, Copaslip Anti-Seize, EP2 Grease, Wear Reducing Lubricants, Oil Additive
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 468c-10 View Post
I had lots of cam trouble with my 468 15 mins into break in i would lose a cam lobe done that three times before i pulled the motor out an took it to a machine shop. Had lifter bores checked everything was fine so i called comp the tech said the best oil to use is rotella an get a bottle of comp break in additive. The rotella an comp oil was a whole lot cheaper than all those cams an i still run both in my truck.
Next time using a flat tappet SBC or BBC cam try a genuine ISKY cam.

and use this stuff in the oil.
Moly Slip E oil supplement.
Molyslip Canada Inc. :: Molybdenum Lubricants, Performance Lubricants, Copaslip Anti-Seize, EP2 Grease, Wear Reducing Lubricants, Oil Additive
ISKY Racing Cams - Do It Right. Race with the Legend. Camshafts, Connecting Rods, Valve Springs, Lifters

after the break in first 1000 miles I add 1/2 can of the Moly Slip E to each oil change.
it looks ugly but Moly really works as a anti wear in a high perf motor.
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