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Old 04-29-2011, 07:39 PM
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new engine and have some questions anyone

i just got a motor that i got for dirt cheap and need to find some info on it. here's some random numbers if you can make sense of any of the ones i cant let me know.... block number 3970010 , has GM 22 , D285 ... looking to rebuild it but not sure if its worth going forward or just finding something new . let me know thanks .

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Old 04-29-2011, 08:01 PM
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It's an early GM 2 piece main 350 block, that's it. As far as what's in it, you need to do a visual, could be a 2 or 4 bolt block, 010 is high nickel content. No way of telling if it's been bored, etc, without going inside.
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:03 PM
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Garden variety 350 block. Millions of 'em out there doin' duty every day. Most of 'em will be fine bored +0.030", but if you need to go +0.060", you might want to sonic check the cylinder walls for thickness. You need 0.135" minimum wall to have enough mass to prevent ring skid harmonics from being transferred to the water jacket, according to Smokey Yunick. Agitated by harmonics, the water can separate out little air bubbles that cling to the cylinder walls, preventing water from getting to the walls to carry away heat. Result: overheating motor.

I was typing while Nova was posting.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:27 PM
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reliable?

so with the little engine info would you say i can push close to 400hp out of it ? i should be getting the motor taken to my house anytime by a coworker / friend so then i can look at it bit better thank you guys for the info . ill still have some fun with it ether way
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:48 PM
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If the block's in good condition it will take 400 hp...if you don't beat it to death.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:48 PM
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Actually, it's difficult to NOT MAKE at least 400 hp with a well-thought-out list of components. For a street motor, choose pistons (1.560" compression height or taller) and heads that will put you at somewhere between 9.0:1 and 9.5:1, piston deck height and gasket thickness that will put the squish at somewhere between 0.035" and 0.045", high-rise, dual-plane intake manifold such as the Edelbrock Performer RPM (makes best power and torque of any other manifold between idle and 6000) and a set of 1 5/8" long-tube headers. Choose headers with a 3/8" flange thickness to keep the flange from curling up like a potato chip and leaking. If they made headers with a 1/2" flange, they would have all my business. Don't even THINK about shorty headers. You may as well walk out to the street and toss your money in the gutter. With a reasonable static compression ratio, you can choose a reasonable camshaft grind to complement the combination. Call up your favorite grinder for a recommendation. A retro-fit hydraulic roller will be your best bet, but if you are short on sheckels and have to use a flat tappet cam, then choose one with nice, long ramps and follow the precautions I have linked for you. I would not use an extreme energy grind and I would not use 1.6 rockers. Use only the valve springs that are recommended by the cam grinder for your particular cam.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
Ignore all this if you run a hydraulic roller. Just oil everything, put it together and run it.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:52 PM
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3970010 is probably one of the more common, if not the most common, 350 blocks out there. They were very common in pickups throughout the 70s. Getting 400 hp out of it all depends on how far you want to go with it, the block and crank shouldn't have any problem handling 400 hp.

To get a better idea of what you are starting with take a look at the deck surface on just in front of the passenger side cylinder head. If it's never been decked then you should be able to find the suffix code and figure out a little more about the engine. If you're planning on a complete rebuild then that information isn't really worth much more than a grain of salt, but it's neat to know.
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:02 PM
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i think ill be rebuilding it fromthe ground up . if can ge 400hp or near it i will be happy. ill gather my list of parts when i can take a better look at the motors condition and go from there , but a of now im still waitin to bring it home . so ill have some updates on my soon to be project . thanks guys
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew88
i think ill be rebuilding it fromthe ground up . if can ge 400hp or near it i will be happy. ill gather my list of parts when i can take a better look at the motors condition and go from there , but a of now im still waitin to bring it home . so ill have some updates on my soon to be project . thanks guys
My best advice to you is to put a combination together on paper and run it by this group of fellows. Between all the regular posters on this forum put together, there's probably a couple thousand years worth of engine building experience. Here is a compilation of 108 street motors that were assembled and dyno'd. Look through it and see if anything catches your fancy....
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
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Old 04-30-2011, 10:09 PM
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010-350sb

If you are planning on really hammering on the throttle you may want to upgrade the crank. I just broke the balancer keyway out of the nose of the cast crank in my 350 4 bolt. But then again I did hammer the heck out of it for 7 years before that happend.
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