[hcompton]

Originally Posted by airsmith

Has a good warranty. 2 Years, 24,000 Miles. Been following guidelines to the letter. Been taking lots of notes and pictures. Take a photo of the dipstick every time I take a reading. Wife thinks I am nuts!!! I know I am obsessing, but it is my nature. Still getting feedback from 1/2 the folks that say it still needs to break in, and the other 1/2 that say there is a problem. I am a bit surprised that there are not more folks out there with ZZ383's ??? But With the warranty I know I should be OK but I spent alot of $$ so I could just drive...

Sounds smart to me but only give warranty people exactly what they ask for. Dont offer them any extra help. Dont help the system the system helps you. Their brains are small and easy confused. Save the rest for your lawyer if you should need one.

Not recommending it to you but i would take it out and beat the crap out of it and see if its going to pop. But i have built a few engines twice because of my foot overcoming my skill as a mechanic.

Best to check that you are meeting all requirements of the warranty. Including receipts for all part numbers they require for install. Also check engine is level and mounted as they require. Dont give them any way to wiggle out of it and demand they pay labor if it needs replaced. Shop will usally help with that part. I would of flipped if someone told me to wait 1k mile to make sure oil system is correct. But i guess in this case it make since for them. If its going to blow a thousand miles will make the problems more apperant. But also too late to fix if anything major.

Hope you get it work out!

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by airsmith

Well everything is documented, so I will see where the oil is when the motor hits the 1000 mile mark. If needed I will open a case with GM under the warranty. I guess the question I would LOVE to have answered is: "How much oil should I expected a GMPP crate ZZ383 Stroker to use?" Simple... Seems like someone would know what the average oil use is. I can not find this number anywhere...

Pretty much all v8 ford chevy whatever should use less than a half quart over 3000 miles under normal operation. Under break in maybe more. But i would hope not much more unless it includes the first few miles after start up and cam break in. During start up ring flutter can blow out alot of oil on some motors.

[airsmith]

What is you definition of a break in period and reasonable oil use during that time? And so I understand your feedback... Example: If break in was 1000 miles, you are saying that on average a motor should taper down to a quart for the 1000 miles after break in, then settle down at the 2000 mile mark?

[bigdog7373]

Originally Posted by airsmith

What is you definition of a break in period and reasonable oil use during that time? And so I understand your feedback... Example: If break in was 1000 miles, you are saying that on average a motor should taper down to a quart for the 1000 miles after break in, then settle down at the 2000 mile mark?

I break in the engine as if i were running a flat tappet cam. 30 minutes running 2500rpm plus. Do a few hard pulls, let it rev a little. Then change the oil and filter and check the filter for excessive metal particles. From that point til 1000 miles it shouldn't use more than a quart. At 1000 I'd change it again then go to your normal oil change intervals.

[Bryan59EC]

My 454HO was an oil sucking pig.
Engine was out of warranty before I even started it up.

When I took this $5000 dollar engine out of the car and took it
to a performance engine builder to look into, he found this:

All piston rings in upside down.
(******* GM monkees)

GM performance parts just pretty much told me "Tough Friggen Bunnies"

There was oil pooled up on top of the pistons when the engine builder took it apart.
There was oil dripping from my mufflers while the engine was out of the car and sitting in the garage.

Did a plate hone, new rings and he machined the heads for different seals.
6000 miles later----oil still on the full mark

[Jim Rockford]

Yep, I wouldn't buy any gm crate engine.. I'll just build em myself that way if there is any problems, I only have me to blame. Me personally I would have waited on the syntetic until at at least 1500 miles min, if it made it that long.

[hcompton]

Originally Posted by Jim Rockford

Yep, I wouldn't buy any gm crate engine.. I'll just build em myself that way if there is any problems, I only have me to blame. Me personally I would have waited on the syntetic until at at least 1500 miles min, if it made it that long.

Agreed on both points. Two many low mile vette motors in the junk yard to worry about a crate motor. I did like the claimer motor style crate engines from jegs. Or on the other side of the coin fully brand new engine. Not all gm crate motors are new and the mexican rebuilds are chit...

I Never run synthetic in new motor use Something with zddp aditive for the first few thousand miles if you dont have cats installed. Like diesel oil called rotella or some of the others out there. You can get it in 10 w 30. Also dont use thin oils on the street performance engines dont like being stuck in traffic with lightwieght oil. Some good old 10 w 30 will keep your ride alive. In hot weather in severe conditions.

[airsmith]

I am back. Been running the motor with Mobil 1 and tracking eveything I do... Motor has about 1700 miles on it now. I have been averaging 390 miles per quart... Put in a claim with GM last week. Been waiting on the garage to get in the loop, which they did this week. Apparently GM engineering is scutinizing the case. Well I got a call a short time ago and here is what they want to try: Apparently in the Fast Burn Heads the hole for the intake valve rocker stud is drilled through. And the stud is threaded in. So GM wants the garage to remove all the intake studs and seal them. So obviously they suspect that as a possible path for oil to get into the intake. More so due to the high vacuum that the stroker pulls on decel will a stardard tranny. Hope to get this done this weekend. HERES HOPING...

[400fbird]

any update on this? i am experiencing the same problem on a zz383 with 4000 miles on it. Its burning 1 quart every 300 miles. There is obviously a GM problem here assembling these things. I am getting the run around from GM.

[airsmith]

Sorry to here. When did you purchase? To say the least thus far I am not 100% satisfied with this GM product. With your input it is sounding more and more like GMPP is lacking quality control. Too back for the $$$$$$$

I have good and bad things that I could talk in length about. But what I can tell you is the latest. GM had my installer remove all the intake rocker studs and seal them with a GM sealer. Not sure exactly what they used, but it was more along the lines of pipe sealer and not locktite. Note... my guy reported that the threads were all oil soaked and there was NO sealer on them and some did not even have locktite. Common sense would have you seal these studs because the hole goes into the intake port. Shotty craftmanship... Anyway the good news is that I have put 500 miles on the motor since this was done and in that 500 miles it used only 1/2 quart of oil. I was burning 1 quart ~every 375 miles. So if you do the math, it looks like I will get 1000 mile to a quart. Major improvement. "BUT" according to a GM document I found, the accepted rate of consumption is 1 quart in 2000 miles. So as I said I am still not happy. Let me know if you need any more ideas...

[cdminter59]

I hate to hear anybody having problems with a new engine. I would be under the assumption that after 500 miles the rings would be seated and it should not be using any oil. If I had a new crate engine it would be unacceptable for it to use a 1/2 quart of oil between changes. GMPP needs to instruct your shop on some more things to check. Why haven't the valve guides, valve seals, etc, been checked? Is your PCV system working properly? Good luck man!

[airsmith]

The saga continues. This is not a closed case. My installer reported the 500 miles to GM and is presently waiting for their feedback. By their own standards this is not aceptable. My story is somewhat long. But quickly... This is my second ZZ383!!! The first one consumed oil at a rate of 1 quart every 300 miles during the first 1500 miles. I opened a case with GM... #1

They made sure that EVERY gasket was GM. So guys.. Make sure you use all GM parts!!!

They even had the installer send photos of the intake gasket...

Then they finnaly did a leak down test and cylinder #4 failed. They ended up sending a new motor. I thought they were great. It was however a pain in the *** because I live in MA and it was peak cruising season and my car was in the garage. But...

Boy was I bummed when motor #2 was consuming oil, WTF at a much lower rate, but still not to their standard....OR MINE So another case... #2... This time they have not done a leak down, just the studs. Not sure why. Maybe because it is not using as much? I am impatiently waiting to hear as I write.

[airsmith]

PVC system working properly... Note... This motor pulls 21" of vacuum driving down the hiway, 26+ on decel. 18" at a 750 RPM idle. This would certainly explain the oil getting by the none sealed intake rocker studs.

I have never owned a car that pulled so much vacuum. Been told it is the long stroke.

[al_1959]

I too have a ZZ383 crate motor that is smoking from the right side when started. I noticed that it will smoke outh the right side when ideling after coming up to temp. I have not noticed any oil consumption so far. I've only 50 miles on it after the first oil change. I made a warenty claim with the GM dealer I bought it from and will take it in after Christmas.

[airsmith]

My first ZZ383 had noticable smoke from the right side and ended up burning oil at a rate of 1 quart evert 170 miles. At the 1200 mile mark GM had the installer inspect the intake manifold gasket to ensure that it was not leaking there, and to ensure that it was a GM gasket. Then they did a leak down test and cylinder #4 apparently failed. They sent a new motor. And if you read you know the the issues I have had with motor #2.

Look real smart and insist that the intake rocker studs are inspected for sealer. And make sure you follow the GM guidelines to the letter. I would also suggest closely checking the oil early on for metal chips. I am very very concerned about there quality control. Then even though they say to switch to synthetic at 500 miles, I would stick with conventional until you are happy with the oil consumption. I say this because the latest feedback I am getting from GM is that they want my motor to have 4000 miles on it to ensure that the rings are seated. Now I think that is a crock. Considering they know I have been following guidlines and I am have been running synthetic since around 800 miles. I would think if they were concerned about rings seating they would have switched me back to conventional. So I guess my point is the low retention rings do not seen to seat as easy as thought in a ZZ383. Document everything as well. Also I would be curious to know what serial number you got. To see if it near mine. Curious...