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Old 01-29-2004, 01:33 PM
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New Guy: more custom console and interrior questions

Hi All,
I'm new to the board, but not to hot rodding...
I've been looking through the interrior portion of the board and have found a lot of great information. I've always wanted to build my own interriors, but have never had much luck. So.. relating to that, I've got a few questions that my archive searchs haven't answered.

First, how are consoles commonly attached to the car? I'm going to be building a console for my '64 caddy and I need to be able to get at the backside because I'm going to be mounting gauges and my air ride switches in it. right now everything is just bolted under the dash and it looks pretty makeshift.

Second. In the past, I've tried building door panels and consoles.. but I can never get the foam or fabrics to stick right. I always go to the uphosltry shop and buy the good stuff, but my projects always fall apart. What am I doing wrong?
For example... I once tried building a panel with nice patterns cut into the foam. After everthing was said and done... it looked ok for about 2 days before the fabric started comming off the foam and all my shapes were lost!

Third. What type of sewing machines are popular for interrior work? I bought a real old school singer a while back. Is this all I need?

Thanks for any help/advice.
-alfie

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Old 01-29-2004, 02:02 PM
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Hey, Alfie

Welcome to Hotrodders!

You mean a floor console? I'm no expert, but I'd mount 'em to the floor with sheet metal screws or bolts, if you prefer.

As far as the foam or vinyl, you need to be using the right adhesive. 3M FoamFast is good for headliners and panels, though I haven't used it yet. I'll be doing my first full interior job this summer when I do up my truck. So far I've been using 3M Super77 (on my floor insulation) ... works pretty nice.

Your old Singer will do the job, but if you really want to get serious, I'd get a machine that has a walking foot -- $1000, basically.

Alan
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Old 01-31-2004, 04:08 PM
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Hi Alan,
Are you also on the oletruck email list?

Yes, I mean floor console.

I've used the 3M stuff and I still have the same problem.
I've always used the stuff in the spray can. Should I use the stuff that I spray out of a paint gun?
How do I set it up. I think maybe that is my biggest problem.

Thanks for the reply.
-alfie
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Old 01-31-2004, 07:35 PM
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Hey, Alfie

Yup ... I'm on the oletrucks list.


The stuff in the spray can should do it.

Do you spray BOTH things to be glued together and let them dry BEFORE you put them together?

Our true "Interior Guru" here is Shawn -- KristKustoms -- he'll chime in at some point here and tell you the best adhesive to use.

Alan
54 Chevy Pickup
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Old 01-31-2004, 08:22 PM
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Ive used Super 77 out of a spray can and have had decent results. I would prefer 3M FoamFast out of a spray can though. With your example, Id definitely try the FoamFast

And like Horvath said, you must spray the back of the material and the face of the piece you are applying it to. All spray adhesives are "double contact." You also need to let the adhesive set up. Never try to adhere the two pieces when the glue still is "wet." A few minutes after spraying, it will start to tack up. When it starts to feel slightly tacky and not wet, you should apply the material to your piece. Once the material is applied, dont try to pull it up to re-position it. You have one shot at getting it right.

You could try spray adhesive out of a 5 gallon drum. At my shop, we use Columbia Conbond, runs about $65 for 5 gallons. This stuff has worked so good for me, i have split LuAnn plywood trying to pull something up. We use El Cheapo paint guns to spray our glue. At $15 a gun, when they clog up we just throw them away. They usually last about 6 months. And it is ready to use, just pour it into the paint gun can and spray.

We bolt our consoles to the floor, or underneath the dash, where fasteners arent visible.

Older sewing machines are bullet proof. I have an old rebuilt Consew 226. Performed great for 5 years now. I have a double needle head, but never bought a table to put it to use. A good single needle machine is all you will need. It also needs reverse and a walking foot.
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:01 AM
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Alan, don't use that 3m #77 on overhead adhesion, you will be dissapointed in a few months when it lets go.

Vince
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Old 02-01-2004, 05:17 PM
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Thanks guys.
I'm going to keep all this stuff in mind when I get back to my caddy (right now I'm doing some work on the '50 chevy! ).

Ok, so I'll attach my console to the floor, since that's the best location... What are some common ways of getting at the screws? Do you often build in a removable panel? that's the best way that I can think of.

I'm pretty excited about this little project. If it comes out nice, I'll try my hand at integrating some speakers into my door panels.

Once again, thanks for the advice.

-alfie
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Old 02-01-2004, 05:43 PM
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Hey, Vince -- Thanks. I plan on using 3M FoamFast for the ceiling.

Alfie -- A removable panel is one way. You might also bolt a frame to the floor and then slip your finished console over that and attach it at the bottom with some wood screws ... then some trim at the bottom to cover the screws ... unless you can put them where they won't be seen.

PS - I think the kick panels are a better spot for speakers -- check THIS out.

Alan
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Old 02-02-2004, 06:08 AM
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Before the console is finished, drill holes through the bottom of the console and through the floor of the car. Then when its finished you can bolt or screw it through the floor from the underside of the car. It will require one person the hold and align the console inside the car/truck, and one person underneath to screw it down. I use this method for a couple reasons. You don't need to make an access panel to get to the attachment points on the console, the fasteners are hidden, and underneath the car you wont see a nasty sheet metal screw sticking through, just a nice stainless screw or bolt head. Alot of the cars we work on have beautiful undercarriages, and there's nothing worse than seeing the threads of a screw sticking through.
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Old 02-02-2004, 09:49 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys. I'll probably be revisiting this issue in about 2 weeks when I start working on the caddy again.

I also like the idea of kickpanel speakers better than door speakers, unfortuantely, in my caddy, there isn't much room for kick panel speakers, unless they were really small.
My car is a rag top and speaker placement is really limited. Then again music never sounds that great in those noisy convertibles anyway, so it's not that big of a concern

The bolts from underneath sound like a good idea, but a real pain in the a** with a big old auto tranny directly below.
Now that I've got some ideas, I need to get a look at the car again to see what the best way to tackle this problem will be.

Thanks again!
-alfie
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