New guy needing advice: APR vs Edelbrock heads with RPM cam???(355 build options)
 

Hello all-

I just registered, but have been reading and researching here for quite a while, and Thanks to all!!

I currently have a 64 Chevy II with a borrowed 307 in in until I get my engine built. I have a 350 4 bolt main and a Performer RPM cam...that is it. I have not been to the machine shop yet...but I am pretty sure I am going to need a new crank (spun bearing and pretty deep gash on journal).

Anyway I have a 350 Turbo with a 2500-2700 stall and a shift kit "suppose" to be able to handle 450ish HP and 3.73 rear end with 4 link and Strange axles.

I think with the drivetrain setup I need to stay with a 355 instead of a 383 (Thoughts??) I am torn between the AFR 195's or just going with the RPM "package" from Edelbrock

My question will a 355 with flat top (9.7 C/R) and the Performer RPM cam (7102) run better with the RPM heads or the AFR 195 heads?

Here is a pic of the car also...
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x..._2712Large.jpg

If you can afford the AFR 195s, they're better. Build the 383 with compression you want, then call Isky, Comp etc.. for the cam recommendation. I wouldn't worry about the Trans as much as the rear.
What rear do you have in the ChevyII?

It is a 3.73 posi with Strange axles...

Your car is sick!!
Is the rearend a 10, 12 bolt or a 9 inch.
I'd build a high winding 355 as opposed to the 383 your car is so light that the extra torque of a 383 will just boil the hides anyway. So should the 355 though, but you can't beat cubic inches and traction problems are good problems to have :D

Thanks for the words!

It is a 10 bolt and I have sub frame connectors, I hope that helps with twisting! Yeah I am worried about traction...but not that bad ;)

It is a 3.73 posi with Strange axles...

Which 10-bolt?? There are several possibilities.

The 8.2" w/ rear cover(typical factory original), the drop-out center '55-64 type that looks like a 9" Ford, a swapped-in 9" Ford(which ARE 10 bolts ;) ), or a swapped in 8.5" w/ rear cover('72-newer). Big difference in strength on all of these.

The origional housing was out of a mid 80's camaro....when I got it there was 4.11 in it and was swapped with the 3.73 that is in it, so that is a very good question.... I guess I do not have a clue what it truley is. Dumb noob mistake now I am on a mission to find out what that is as well.

If it is indeed post '81 Camaro, it is a 7.5/7.625" rear, a real weak duck no matter how good the parts are in it. Strange axles in this rear was a real waste of money, the ring and pinion are the weak links(especially the pinion). Now I understand your worry, that a 383 will tear it up, but a 350 will tear it up just as easily of you try to get it hooked up good(sticky tires and traction aids). This is a poor rear end choice for anyone to swap in, it is only better than the original 4 lug rear, and only a little better.

Thanks EricNova72 good information to know...are there numbers I can run on the rear to confirm what it is housing wise?

Look for visual ID pics here www.oldsmobility.com and www.novaresource.org to ID the housing.

Stamped codes are on the front side of the passengers axle tube, not on the cast center.

Nice Chevy II!! :thumbup: If your crank is toast, I guess go for the 383. My crank was in good condition and it's a steel crank so I opted for just a 355. It moves my 72 nova with no problems. I didn't think the extra cubic inches was worth it? :confused:

Ericnova72's right. If it's the 7.5"/7.625" 10-Bolt they're very weak. If that's what you have try to find an 8.5" 10-Bolt, the 7.5" isn't worth wasting $$ trying to upgrade it as either engine will destroy it if you have good traction.
Housing ID.>> http://www.novaresource.org/axle.htm or here>> http://dyeager535.topcities.com/diffid.html