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Old 10-05-2005, 09:33 PM
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New harness install, now some questions

I'm installing a new wiring harness into my 67 Scout 800. I'm having a little trouble wiring in the turn siginals. Will the flasher flash if just wired to 1 bulb or does it take 2? When using a 1157 pulb fror the taillights which filament is for the brake/taillights/turnsignals? Also, should I use a relay for the headlights? Thanks

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Old 10-06-2005, 01:16 AM
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Flashers

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Originally Posted by Blackdog
I'm installing a new wiring harness into my 67 Scout 800. I'm having a little trouble wiring in the turn siginals. Will the flasher flash if just wired to 1 bulb or does it take 2? When using a 1157 pulb fror the taillights which filament is for the brake/taillights/turnsignals? Also, should I use a relay for the headlights? Thanks
Doc here,

It takes the total resistance of the filament circuit to make it flash, or flash at a proper speed..

The Flash unit is a Bi~metallic strip, that heats up under the current consumed by the lighting system filaments..

When the strip heats up, it opens, the lights go out, and the strip cools down, and returns to the closed position and starts the process all over again...hence..Flash...

You need all the bulbs or an equal amount of filament resistance to run the unit ...

On your 1157 light-bulbs, your BRIGHTEST filament will be for turn signal/brake lamps..The Dimmest of the two will be your Tail lights...

Keep in mind, your Brake lights MUST go through the turn-signal switch for isolation, else be diode isolated, or the system will simply not work..If your harness is not wired this way, (which it should be) you must achieve that configuration...


Relays for the headlights is a very good idea, it provides more current delivery capability to the headlight system from the source current, this equates to brighter headlights..

and it , by venture of configuration of the wire gauge to the new system provides better protection against harness melt down and fires...

ALSO a medium to remove the source current in case of either..(shut the relay down..) use a proper fuse Link, and hook the relay contacts directly to the battery main source terminal, (usually at the starter solenoid)


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Old 10-06-2005, 08:59 AM
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Thanks Doc. One more question, any problem using LED tail lights with my new system?
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:24 PM
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LED's

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Thanks Doc. One more question, any problem using LED tail lights with my new system?
Doc here,

Not so long as you follow the instructions when installing...LED lights are polarity sensitive..

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Old 10-06-2005, 09:49 PM
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OK, got dome and brake lights. Got a heater fan. Now another problem, the head lights. I installed a new light switch, ran a wire from it to the dimmer switch than ran 2 wires from the dimmer switch to the head lights. The brights seem to be OK but the dims are very weak. I think I may have the dimmer switch wired wrong. The female plug is the 3 prong type (International shared much of the same electrics as GM). The center prong is a little higher than the other 2, I wired this to the light switch. The other 2 I wired to the low and high beams, sound OK? One of the lower 2 prongs had 2 wires comming from it, (high beam indicator?). Keep in mind some of the switches are 40 years old, this has slowed me down and I replace the bad as I go. Thanks
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Old 10-07-2005, 12:19 AM
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High / Low switch

Doc here,

I'm sorry, not having the exact switch in front of me, I can not comment on it intelligently...gessitmation would be about all I could offer..

The way to verify it is correctly wired, is find the common center wiper of the switch..this will be where power from the headlight circuit goes to..

Then using an ohm meter, set for R x 1 measure between that terminal, and the next terminal in line until you find continuity..when you do, mark it low beams ..

Then switch it and ohm it again..The same center wiper to what should be another set of contacts..(different from the last set)..mark that / those high beams..

Now go back to the first configuration, measure it , it should read...000 or very close..001 or 003 (which includes lead length and meter calibration..) If that's all good..go to the next set..measure it..It should measure the same..If you get a higher resistance reading on any, replace the switch, it has burned contacts...(010..030 or higher..)

This, I assume is one of those "massive" foot switches as opposed to the column type switch correct? given the age and susceptibility of the switch I would suspect the latter..burned contacts..

You can control that with a small dash or column switch and a relay should you want to go that way, but for the retro look stay with a stock replacement..

................................................................................


http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=404&ptset=A

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