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Old 01-21-2003, 08:19 PM
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Post new holley avenger

Anybody have anyexperience using one, and any pros and cons about Holley's new street avenger carb? would it be a good carb for a 383 stroker street motor?

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Old 01-21-2003, 11:14 PM
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Heavy, I don`t have any experience on the street avengers, but I won`t run holley products, there quality control is less than outstanding, it`s really quite poor. for the money you`d spend on the street avenger, I`d recommend a better carb, A Demon, I recently got a road demon jr for my street ride, unbreakable billet baseplates and metering blocks, and very impressive looks, outstanding quality control, and real crisp throttle response. I`d buy a holley, if it was used and cheap, but I won`t buy another new one, and after sending 2 of there fuel pressure regulators back before I got one that worked and dealing with worn out throttle bushings that they make no replacement on and there just 5 cent plastic pieces along with broken baseplates are my reasons. not knocking Holley, just saying, a demon cost about the same and is a far superior carb. just my 2 cents.
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Old 01-22-2003, 02:25 AM
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Been running Holleys for years and like 'em. I have never run a Demon though. Here is the 670cfm Street Avenger I'm running now. It's either a great carb or I just got lucky.
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Old 01-22-2003, 02:33 AM
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I am running the 770 cfm street avenger and really like it in combination with AFR 190cc street heads and an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake with Comp Cam 280H. I tried different jetting, but it runs best with the stock jetting.

Replace the clear sight plugs with the brass ones though, as they will snap off at the threads. One fell off when I lifted the carb from the original box it came in.



[ January 23, 2003: Message edited by: Frisco ]</p>
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Old 01-22-2003, 03:54 PM
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Get the Holly, broken base plates are from over tightening, not quality, especially using spacer's not of aluminum. Once you understand the tuning of them you wont switch to another carb.
I replaced 2 Demon carbs on other cars because they did not like them.

[ January 22, 2003: Message edited by: 1BAD80 ]</p>
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:59 AM
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Finally figured out how to post a picture on here. <img src="graemlins/crash.gif" border="0" alt="[crash]" />
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Old 01-23-2003, 10:05 AM
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Hey Frisco, how do you like them AFRs?. I've been looking into buying a set for my 383 but haven't meet up with anyone that has run them. Just wondering cause they are pricey.
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Old 01-23-2003, 10:16 AM
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I am using the Avenger 670cfm. I agree the site plugs are pretty lame, I broke one, I don't know how or why. I am having trouble getting mine to idle down. I don't understand the damn thing and probably never will, but it does seem to be a well made piece. I am crediting my experience to inexperience and lack of knowledge. I would probably buy it again.
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Old 01-23-2003, 10:17 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by Rad Ray:
<strong>Hey Frisco, how do you like them AFRs?. I've been looking into buying a set for my 383 but haven't meet up with anyone that has run them. Just wondering cause they are pricey.</strong><hr></blockquote>

The truth is, I didn't notice much change in performance when I first installed them. I was still running an Edelbrock Performer intake and an Edelbrock 600 cfm carb. There was a MAJOR improvement when I switched to the RPM Air Gap intake and the 770 Street Avenger carb. Obviously, the carb and intake combo I first used didn't allow the heads to do their job. Of course they are much lighter and the machining was very good with the exception that none of the tapped holes were chamfered. I painted them to match the block, but hated to do that. I think they are worth the price (with the right combo of intake) and would buy them again.
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Old 01-23-2003, 10:37 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by F-1Rodder:
<strong>I am using the Avenger 670cfm. I agree the site plugs are pretty lame, I broke one, I don't know how or why. I am having trouble getting mine to idle down. I don't understand the damn thing and probably never will, but it does seem to be a well made piece. I am crediting my experience to inexperience and lack of knowledge. I would probably buy it again.</strong><hr></blockquote>

F-1 Rodder, if you are unable to get the air screws to make changes, try adjusting the stop screw to open the secondaries slightly (I turned the screw abot 1/8 of a turn). It is located underneath and is difficult to adjust with the carb on the intake. You will then be able to adjuct the idle screws and back off the idle stop screw on the primaries to get your idle RPM where you want it to be.

Another thing that I found. Holley said to use the ported fitting for the vacuum line to the vacuum advance. Bogged terrible that way. I connected it to full vacuum fitting and no more bog. Since doing that, I have read what Ignition Man has to say about where to hook the vacuum line and he suggests using the full vacuum (Except on engines with EGR). My results confirm what he said.
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Old 01-24-2003, 07:38 AM
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Thanks Frisco
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Old 01-24-2003, 11:26 AM
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Frisco: I pulled the carb off so that I could spill gas all over the garage floor. I found that the primary throttle plates were hanging open ever so slightly, hardly visible, but probably enough to cause air to pass and invalidate the vacuum action of the idle passages. I cut a strip of paper and slid it in between the throttle plate and the bore and used this to test my progress. I finally found that there is a stop screw which makes contact with the auto choke. It is hidden under the choke and not visible from the side or top of the carb. It is intended to provide progressively less choke as the carb warms up. The problem was that when the choke was completely released, the stop screw was still making contact with the choke cam and holding the throttle plates open. So now I am in the process of putting the carb back on and would guess that I will be able to adjust the idle through the idle circuit. I think this may be what you were trying to tell me.

You know the selling point of these carbs is that they say they are sort of idiot proof, ready to run out of the box. Obviously not, this sort of an adjustment has nothing to do with volumetrics or flow rates etc., it was just a factory screw up and should have been properly adjusted before it got in the box. I think it is still going to be running rich, but maybe since I will be able to advance my timing properly now, it may run a little drier. Pray for me, I am losing brain cells daily.
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