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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2008, 03:27 PM
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So If I'm reading this right, this is the same motor?
You get all the luck eh...

Hopefully this time the cam+ lifters will stay together.
Please post how the thicker oil works for you.
My motor (with the XE284) is a good bit quieter with 015-W40 rotella instead of 10w-30.

I would add Comp break in lube or GM EOS to your oil all the time.
(Zinc anti wear additive)

I have seen the cam recomendations by BDS.
I like Isky cams. As to wether you should use a 110 LSA 112 or 114.
Either will work. Each will give a slightly different boost response curve shape and a slightly different torque curve. Each will work well, but slightly different.
I have tried a few different cams with 112 and 114 LSA on S/C motors.
The truth is there is no hard fast, must do rule for a LSA on a S/C cam.
It will be application specific depending on a lot of factors and the effect you are looking for. A specific application may want a cam with X duration and 116LSA on Y installed C/L.
But as a generalized recomendation supercharged motors tend to want wider LSA and somewhat less overlap (than the same motor - blower) as a rule. If the specific cam that is best for the job happens to have a 110LSA, so be it. Not a problem.
BDS has a long well earned good reputation in the S/C business. The fact that they are hooked up with Isky for their cams is a +++.
Because of the weight of your car, and how you'll be using it, you're probabily best to stick with the milder cams you have been using.

Your biggest issue is not the cam grind, but getting the thing to live in the motor.
I would use only as much spring pressure as required to get the job done.
I would pull the valve covers and fire it up and look at the push rods to see if they are spinning. (may have to rev the motor up a bit)
If any are not spinning and you cannot get them to do so, you got trouble.
Something is not right. Lifter bores???, grit in the cam oil galleries?
If something is preventing the lifters from spinning, the cam and lifters will fail.
Isky, Comp, Crane, it won't matter.

Should be a lot of fun once you get it sorted out. Good luck.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2008, 02:20 PM
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Good news. I got the motor back together today, re-installed XE Comp Cam and lifters al in orig bores and used plenty of comp cam assy lube all over it.

Put in 5 qts of joe gibbs xp4. I was told that GM EOS isn't even avail anymore (or soon won't be); government cracking down on zinc, phosphates and other yummy poisons for our motors. But won't affect after market race suppliers like Comp Cam break in lube, etc. I will add this each oil change.

Engine fired up instantly with the blower connected, runs like silk, 50+ lbs of oil pressure.

When I disconnect the blower belt, however, sure enough the valve train sounds exactly like a Singer sewing machine, just like many of the comments I've read. That being said: With the heavier weight oil, the ticking DOES sound a wee bit quieter, less harsh. No matter. If things are getting hurt, I don't mind the sound.

I do believe my cam/lifter problems are behind me, now. And, last rebuild time around, my builder installed less aggressive, single valve springs for my mild street application.

Soon I will definitely check pushrod spin, but not today. I've seen enough of the inside of this motor for this week, however. And diff cam profile will also have to wait until I'm on .... solid ground (ha ha, get it?

Thanks again.
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