Originally Posted by Docpsycho
so what keeps solid lifters from the valves hitting the pistons,& bending some valves and push rods?
The idea that the lifters being full of oil will cause them to hit the pistons is just wrong.
Hydraulic lifters will bleed down w/the pressure from the spring even if they're pumped slap full of motor oil and installed that way.
This same malarkey has come up before.
Let me ask this: If the lifters cannot be pumped up/full of oil and then adjusted, how are lifters re
adjusted after the engine has been run? Obviously anyone who's actually adjusted lifters knows better. And I have pumped the lifters full of oil dozens of times before installing and adjusting them- because that's how I was shown. And yes, I know the manufacturers do not recommend doing this.
Even if the lifters didn't bleed down and they all stayed holding the valves open by the amount of preload you added (which will mean the engine couldn't start, either- but they DO start, and no wondering why, either)- the amount is generally 1/2 turn, or about 0.062", which is less than the recommended valve to piston clearance.
So anyway, follow the directions below under Adjusting hydraulic lifters, or anyplace that has a version of the "EO/IC method.
Do not worry about some being solid feeling and some being loose feeling- UNLESS you think they might have sat around so long that the light machine oil/mineral spirits has turned into varnish and caused the plungers to stick. It wouldn't hurt to take one of the "full" lifters apart to inspect/see what's up w/it.
When it comes time to set the lifters to zero lash, jiggle the pushrod up and down as opposed to twisting it between a thumb and fingers when you go to find zero lash.
• Valve train points to check
• Valve train geometry
• Adjusting hydraulic lifters
• Cam break in
Edit- Jester, I didn't see your post while I was typing mine. Not here to argue w/you. Just stating the facts as I know them. Nothing more for me to say on the subject.