[SafeAirOne]

Hi All,

Been lurking here a bit, researching machines sutiable for making canvas tops for old Land Rovers. Found lots of info--Thanks everyone!

While researching machines, I somehow got the subtle impression that DanTwoLakes is a bit partial to the Adler brand so I perked up a bit when I came across a Craigslist ad titled "ADLER SEWING MACHINE" with absolutely no detais and a couple of blurry pics.

Skipping ahead...usually I try to haggle on ALL private sales of ANYTHING, but this time I just gave the guy his $300 asking price and burned rubber out of there with an Adler 167-373T triple transport machine and table in the back of my old Rover.

Here she is:



Anyhow, my question (finally) is--Where can I find general information on thread and needles? For example, which kind of thread is strong and very UV-stable?, which needle is used for which thread size?, what system is used in thread sizing?, etc... In other words, is there a place I can go to learn everything there is to know about thread and needles?

Thanks,

--Mark

[DanTwoLakes]

You really got yourself a steal. Have it gone over by an industrial sewing machine mechanic as soon as you can to have him set thread tensions, time the machine, and check for worn or broken parts. There is no one place to go to learn all about needles and thread. You will have to research needles separately and thread separately. Here is a good web site for needle info: CLICK HERE Here is a good web site for thread info: CLICK HERE


You will find that there are all kinds of different thread sizing charts, and that there is no one universally accepted thread sizing chart. Polyester and Nylon threads are equally strong, but Polyester is more resistant to abrasion, UV rays, and mildew than Nylon is. The rule of thumb for needles and thread is that if the thread will go through the eye of the needle comfortably without binding, the two are compatible.

The needle system your machine uses is 135 X 5. You should be able to find needles from size 16 up to size 24 for your machine. The higher the number, the heavier the needle is. I generally stick to two sizes, 18 and 22, and do 99% of my sewing with one or the other. Normal industrial thread sizes start at 69 and go up in thickness increments from 69 to 92 to 138, and then in increments of 69. The next size up from 138 is 207. In other words, size 138 is twice as thick as size 69, and size 207 is three times as thick as size 69. Your machine should be able to run well with thread up to size 138. Size 20 needles and higher should be able to work fine with size 138 thread. Some good brand names for needles are Schmetz, Organ, and Groz-Beckert.

[Qwerty27807]

Here is the operator's manual:

http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export...ic/167/167.pdf

Here is the parts list:

http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export...67-372-373.pdf

Here is the service manual for the Adler 67, which is very similar to your unit:

http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export...7/s_067_de.pdf

Here is a catalog of official attachments:

http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/common...67_and_167.pdf

[SafeAirOne]

Dan--Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Great info on those sites (and in your reply).

Cleaned up and oiled the machine and found a welt foot (not sure what size yet) along with the regular foot. Now I'm on a mission to find a suitable 1" binding attachment for it.

[EDIT:] Querty--Thanks for the Adler links--I didn't think of looking for accessorys on the Adler site (though I did find the operator and parts manual earlier).

[DanTwoLakes]

The size of the welt foot should be engraved on the side of it some place. I will be shocked if it isn't 1/4". The rule of thumb for the correct welt foot size is based on the diameter of the welt cord you are using and adding 3/32" to the diameter of the welt cord. In other words, if you are using 5/32" welt cord and add 3/32" to it you get 8/32" or 1/4". That is the size welt foot you should use. You use the welt foot closest to that dimension. A 1/4" welt foot works with 5/32 and 4/32 welt cord, and those are the most common sizes used.

[SafeAirOne]

Yeah--I saw the part number printed on it, I just haven't had a chance to look it up as I spent the day trying to figure out how to slow the machine down to my speed.

Based on other posts I've read on this board, I think it's as slow as it'll go without a servo motor, since the pulley on the clutch motor is already pretty tiny.

I also tried to dull the sensitivity of the treadle by moving the clutch acutator rod closer to the pivot point on the treadle, though I didn't think to move the other end out as far as it'll go on the clutch arm till just now.

If that doesn't do it for me, I'll probably get a 3 inch bolt and a couple of nuts and drill a hole through the upper part of the treadle and fasten the bolt to the bottom of the treadle so the bolt head will hit the floor and limit the travel of the treadle to a speed I can handle. As I get better, I can always shorten the bolt stickout to give me more speed till I don't need it any more. Sewing machine training wheels, so to speak.

[Qwerty27807]

Read up on how to adjust a clutch motor near the end of this article .

This made mine a lot less "abrupt" than when I got it and easier to feather the clutch. You can add some length to the motor's bar too.

Putting a nerf football under the treadle also helped make it less touchy, but I eventually bought a Sewquiet 5000 and have been very happy with it.

[SafeAirOne]

Thanks. Good article. I learned a couple of things about these clutch motors by reading it.

I think I have my major problem worked out--I was messing around with the machine for a few hours earlier, getting used to the jackrabbit sarts when I realized two things: 1, the table has a ton of adjustability built into everything. 2, the treadle must have been set up for somebody that was 5 foot 6 inches tall, and I'm 6 foot 3.

Once I moved the treadle 6 inches forward, I was able to have much more precise control of the treadle (well, my ankles really) and tamed the abruptness, for the most part.

A few more hours of burning through the 5 year old thread that came with the machine and I should be all set.

[DanTwoLakes]

On a clutch motor, there is the actuating lever that the rod attaches to the treadle. You can also tighten the wing nut next to the spring at the end of the lever to make it harder to actuate but easier to control. The more you tighten the wing nut, the less the lever can be moved, and the easier it will be to control. Lengthening the rod between the lever and the treadle and making the treadle flatter will also limit how much the lever can be moved.

None of this, however, is a substitute for practicing with the sewing machine and learning how to control it by increasing your skill with the machine.

[SafeAirOne]

Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes

You can also tighten the wing nut next to the spring at the end of the lever to make it harder to actuate but easier to control.

Oh! THAT'S the clutch machanism wing nut they referred to in another thread on machine controlability. Thanks again, Dan.

[Epiplayer]

another thing you can do to make sure it is at it's easiest to control is look at the bolt that is sticking out to your right on the pulley end of the machine. it should be just above where the treadle lever is attached. if you unscrew this a few turns it will make the actuation of the machine a bit easier to control, especially if someone adjusted it too tightly to begin.

the best position for this bolt can be tested by pulling back on the treadle and trying to turn the balance wheel. if it can still turn without a problem while pushing your heel down, then it is too loose. tighten it just until you feel the brake begin to work when you push down with your heel.

what this bolt is for is to allow you to tighten it up as your clutch wears down over time. this tip helped me out a lot as the company adjusted my machine wrong.

[SafeAirOne]

Originally Posted by Epiplayer

another thing you can do to make sure it is at it's easiest to control is look at the bolt that is sticking out to your right on the pulley end of the machine... if you unscrew this a few turns it will make the actuation of the machine a bit easier to control, especially if someone adjusted it too tightly to begin.

Thanks. A few weeks ago my motor started squealing a bit from sitting for a few years, so I took the clutch assembly completely off and lubricated the front bearing on the motor. While I was at it, I lubed the sliding actuator on the clutch mechanism and adjusted the bolt that you were talking about.

Now I have MUCH more control on the starts. The clutch actuator was dragging from lack of sufficient lubrication and was "popping" along instead of smoothly easing into the friction material.