[cobalt327]

Nowhere have I ever advocated using a synthetic oil to break in a new engine OR camshaft/lifters. I am just showing what Mobil 1 says. So if anyone has a beef, it's w/Mobil- not me.

As I already said- I use 30W for break in. Fossil oil, not synthetic- as I don't even know if there is a 30W synthetic other than possibly Amsoil, which I don't use anyway.

[Rickracer]

I have no beef with you Cobalt, that was directed to the poster above who said they are breaking in with Mobil 1 Racing oil.

[DoubleVision]

No beef here either, I misunderstood your post. Sorry.

[jpd37]

I have read all the interesting discussion and I have a few questions:

1. If I change oil at this stage will that potentially resolve the smoking problem. Or is it too late to just change oil because the intake manifold gaskets may be compromised or the valve seals may be compromised?

2. I have new valve seals and intake manifold gaskets on hand that I can install. If I install them, should I also change oil and use a straight 30W mineral oil? Should I add ZDDP to the oil to protect the cam and lifters?

3. If I simply change oil and use straight 30W mineral oil without replacing any gaskets or seals, is there a chance that the smoking problem could be resolved?

I realize there are many variables in my situation. I'm trying to correct or eliminate as many variables without doing a major teardown. I have to remove the whole front sheet metal assembly to yank the motor if it comes to that, and I'm not too excited about that option.

[cobalt327]

I'm not sure what grade of Mobil 1 racing oil he's even using- but the 0W-50 is like $100/6 qts from Mobil (I'm sure it's cheaper elsewhere)- that alone would keep me from using it for break in. I mean, 30 minutes of "run time", then it gets dumped anyway.

And the 0W-50 was specifically mentioned in the Q&A- not any other grade/weight.

A high quality 30W w/added ZDDP is bad enough, let alone just throwing money away.

[lmsport]

I would certainly try changing the oil before doing any major work. One of my customers was at WalMart and found SH rated oil in the regular non-syn Mobil. Drive the car normally for a few hundred miles and see if the oil smoke decreases. I have seen some engines, new and old, that have oil consumption issues with syn which I think has to do with oil ring design and oil return holes in the oil ring land.

THe controversy over syn break-in has no clear result. I started using syn on new engines really to save changing the oil on the dyno. I have broke in many engines using Mobil 1 and have no known problems. Richmond gear used to recommend new gears be installed with mineral oil for break-in purposes, then they came out with their own branded oil and it is a syn, and is recommended for break-in.

[bigdog7373]

Have you checked too rich fuel mixture? I could also just be burning off the assembly lube. How long has it been run for so far?

[jpd37]

Here is an update on the smokin' problem. It still is smokin'! I have replaced the intake manifold gaskets and the valve seals. I also want to set the record straight. I am using Valvoline Racing Oil for break-in and it is NOT a synthetic oil. I will be changing it this weekend and going to a more standard oil, but I intend to stay with the mineral oil a while longer, that is until I figure out what is causing the smoking problem. I have resolved that my next step is to remove the heads, so I'm going to wait until the cruising season is over before I tackle that work. In the meantime, I'll have to tolerate the occasional ill comment and the embarrassing cloud. Not much left to do at this point. At least it is running smooth and the power is not too bad either. At 70 mph, I don't notice the problem at all. One of my buddies said I should not fuss over it because it just means the motor is getting lubed well. There is always a silver lining if you get creative enough in your thinking.

Anyway, thanks for all your advice and input. I didn't really want to give up smokin' anyway!