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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2005, 12:54 PM
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What did you miss?

you can't repair something without knowing the cause, unless you want to do it again.
The only thing that can cause a bubble that big is a gassing effect.

So when you carefully cut the top of the bubble off let use know when it stops and what you see under it and we can tell you what caused it.

Sealer would not have helped the problem you had.

When you cut the top of bubble off with razor blade we will need to know the following to help you.
What is stuck to bottom side pf paint , K36, acid, etc.
What is next item still on car, K36, body filler, etc.
What does it look like inside the bubble, clear liquid, rusty liquid, nothing.
If liquid stick finger in it and smell it.

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Last edited by BarryK; 04-10-2005 at 01:36 PM.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2005, 03:57 PM
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The photo is a bit blury but I can tell you the problem now that I opened it. What was underneath the bubble?
Drum roll........


spot putty.

I realized after I painted it I used the wrong stuff.You can see it at the bottom edge of the hole.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2005, 04:10 PM
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Good deal, that an easy fix, sand off putty and give leftover tube to someone you don't like!
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Old 04-10-2005, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK
Good deal, that an easy fix, sand off putty and give leftover tube to someone you don't like!
Good advice. That stuff isn't even good for body putty on model cars. Toss it.
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Old 04-10-2005, 09:47 PM
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Right. I think everyone has experienced the red "toothpaste" early in their career. I can't believe they keep selling that crap. Guess that's why,People still buy it.
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Old 04-13-2005, 01:50 PM
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You might go to chevytalk. com. They have a forum on body work and paint and there are some very knowagable people over there in fact a lot of the replies are form ex-body shop guys.
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Old 04-13-2005, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamothe1
You might go to chevytalk. com. They have a forum on body work and paint and there are some very knowagable people over there in fact a lot of the replies are form ex-body shop guys.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2005, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
I can't believe they keep selling that crap.
Well, it's a good idea...just bad product. Is there anything "high end" that works? And what's the alternative...get the filler straight as possible and then work out the craters, pin holes, and low spots with high fill primer???????
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Old 04-13-2005, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
Well, it's a good idea...just bad product. Is there anything "high end" that works? And what's the alternative...get the filler straight as possible and then work out the craters, pin holes, and low spots with high fill primer???????
Get your filler work as straight as possible then skim the area with a coat of polyester glaze, this stuff is just a very fine body filler that spreads very thin and smooth to fill any heavy sand scratches and pinholes, etc. Final sand with nothing coarser than 180 before primer, I prefer 320 grit for the final sand. The less filling you need to do with primer the less chance of any shrinkage problems. Exception- Polyester primers can be used for filling some nasty imperfections, but with a urethane primer I wouldn't prime over any sand scratches coarser than 180. Bob
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Old 04-14-2005, 01:15 AM
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I spend a great deal of time on the chevytalk sight. Thanks.
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Old 04-14-2005, 02:45 AM
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water in air line and humidity in the air will cause just that.
airconditioned paint booth a must in your location.
and of course water seperators for the air lines
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Old 04-14-2005, 05:28 AM
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One thing not mentioned that would be obvious,
You didn't wet sand anything before painting did you?
I've seen bubbles where water was still in the filler before painting.
It's really hard to get it dry enough once wet.
I know this is a no-no but some people have done it.
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Old 04-14-2005, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Well, it's a good idea...just bad product. Is there anything "high end" that works? And what's the alternative...get the filler straight as possible and then work out the craters, pin holes, and low spots with high fill primer???????
Any of the catylized spot/finish are great. Most all the Evercoat products and designed for this type skim work. Sure they cost more,But as we can all see the results of the "cheap" stuff.

Quote:
airconditioned paint booth a must in your location.
I understand what your saying about the moisture down South, But we been painting a long time without A/C.

Last edited by Bee4Me; 04-14-2005 at 07:22 AM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2005, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
I prefer 320 grit for the final sand.
Do you hand block at this point or use your DA?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2005, 11:48 PM
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tiny bubbles

Quote:
Originally Posted by garretthes
I did sand it well, just not down to the metal everywhere. I used K36 primer, no sealer. I used rattle can etching primer where the bare metal was showing through.
The rattle can etch is the culprit,guaranteed! Seen it happen.Etch must flash at least 30 minutes then maybe re skuff prior to prime.Trapped solvent/gassing out.
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