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Old 06-08-2013, 09:48 AM
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new paints

wow I use to paint cars back in the 70s early 80s. recently bought a truck and wanted to paint it but I do not know the newer water born systems. tried SW but dose not come close. wanted imron but no longer available in my area of California. what would match oem best and last like imron ?

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Old 06-08-2013, 10:08 AM
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Welcome aboard, it's a great forum with a lot of knowledgeable people.

Now with respect to your question and comments. When you say you've tried SW's water born and it's not even close...close to what. What type and year is the truck so we can determine what type of paint came on it from the factory.Even today's Imrom is a different animal than it was back in the 70's and 80's so California rules and regulations wouldn't make much of a difference.

Imron is a durable product and today's paint materials are also much more durable than the systems available 30 and 40 years ago. There are Urethane Paints from most manufactures that are extremely durable, PPG's Essential is a well priced product, durable, but you would need to check with your jobber regarding color availability. If color match is a big concern, you may need to look at base clear systems and I'm not overly familiar with rules and regulations in California but, the clears that are out today are very durable, they are repairable with minimal effort compared to Imron....and....when comparing price, (BC/CC versus Imron) they are competitively priced.

Ray
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:45 PM
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thanks for responding. I have a 1989 chevy pickup two tone paint. upper is code 27 light blue metallic. SW color matches but dose not have the bright metallic. the center is panted code 98 black sapphire metallic.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:53 PM
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I don't mind using B/C or single stage as long as its durable and fairly inexpensive by todays standards. that being said I use to be able to get imron for a little over a bill a gallon.
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:54 PM
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I don't know if it is available in Cali or not, but PPG'S "Shopline" brand is about the cheapest paint here in NC. We have a car lot customer that has us use it fairly regular on cheaper vehicles and it works pretty well. We also used to use SW's Dimension/finish line,some as well with pretty good results. Again I dont know if any of those are available in Cali or not though.

Kelly
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:30 PM
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I used to own an '89 chevy pickup that was light blue metallic - don't remember the paint code. What I do remember is that there were two light blue metallics in '89 that might have had the same paint code. I had to have my truck repaired, and when the shop started painting the repair, they saw that the paint didn't match - went back to the supplier, who found a second formula that matched.
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:08 PM
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wow ya mine has bright big heavy metallic in it. SW paint has a dole small flake.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:06 AM
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A very important thing to remember about today's paint is that if you are applying a Single Stage Metallic paint, the more metallic's, the more loss in gloss. That's why Base Clear is your best option with materials available today.

I agree, years ago $100 went a lot further than today...but...in many cases, it's relative to how much money people earned back then. To save money I can make a recommendation, step up to the plate and purchase a quality color coat (Base Coat) PPG, Dupont, they all make excellent products and are much more user friendly than many of the "lower Priced" products...metallic control is much easier and better coverage. To save money, I would recommend using SPI's Primer's and Clears. These are top quality products that have the application manners of High End products (because they are high end products, just minimal advertising, packaging and several other factors that keep the cost down that the major manufacturer's need to invest in to stay competative with each other).

For example. SPI's Universdal Clear kit would be about $300 to $400 less than PPG's or Dupont's top of the line VOC compliant clear. The same applies to SPI's Primer's, as good or better than anything out there but, much more cost effective. This product is worth more than just a look and if everything was equal with respect to price, I would still use SPI.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:22 AM
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thanks someone else sent me that direction also. they have the dark blue I need but not sure on the light blue met. I have code 27 1989 and they have a code 22 for a 92 93. I need to see a color chip. I think its darker and doesn't have the flake in it like mine dose.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:50 AM
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All of SPI's Base Coats are solid colors, they do not make a metallic Base Coat. I asked Barry K the owner of SPI why he didn't have a wider selection of base colors and he responded by saying, "we excel in making clears and primers, let the major manufacturer's deal with the color"...not an exact quote but fairly close. From what I've seen of the SPI product, I would say that they are sticking with what they are really good at and don't put an inferior or less than industry leading product out in the market place just to say "we have one too". That's why I recommended color from another manufacturer as a Base Coat (to get the exact color you want) and SPI's ground coat (primers) and top coats (clears).

The cost of manufacturing all the different formulas for all the different OEM manufacturer's would be a staggering sum, these costs are reflected, not only in the color you buy from the majors, but also in the clears and primers you purchase from say, Dupont, PPG etc. With SPI your getting proven, tried, tested and true material at the fraction of the cost of the large aftermarket paint suppliers.

Hope this explains.

Ray
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:13 AM
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ya I'm begging to understand all that now. things have really changed cense I painted before. This is an awesome sight and a big help.
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:28 AM
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You are so correct about this site...I joined in September of last year hoping to re familiarize myself with newer technologies on the mechanical side (I started out in this trade/hobby as a mechanic) and for the last 30 plus years, I've dedicated the majority of my time to the paint and body side. I was pleasantly surprised at all of the information I've received. Without a doubt, I don't have near the knowledge that many of the mechanical professionals here have but, with their input, help and guidance...I have learned more than I had hoped to. The basics of what makes a car go fast hadn't changed, just the technology with respect to the availability of parts and pieces, how to match parts for the best combinations and so on....I should also mention that this site has also improved my spelling skills a great deal.

Ray
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:49 AM
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awesome! I also have a 1940 ford pickup. it was partly hot rodded when I got it so trying to mix and match. this sight just might be the ticket!
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:18 PM
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Again my friend, you hit the nail right on the head, this site has enough of a diverse collection of professionals from interior design (Dan Two Lakes) Mechanical (Techinspector1, VinnieK2Q...and many many more), Paint and Body (MARTINSR, DEADBODYMAN). The people/members I have mentioned are only a few and the list would be extremely long if I tried to list all. This site has members that I would consider to be brand specific professionals that will gladly pass on valuable information be it Pontiac, Chrysler, Ford or whatever brand you might be working on or having trouble with. What I appreciate more than anything about this site is the fact that the information passed on is passed on to further the hobby, keep the hobby alive and not done for financial or personal reward. If you have a question, just ask and you will have enough information from the member's personal experience to make an educated decision on how to proceed.

Ray
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:27 PM
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glad I found the sight!
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