I have a '73 Camaro 350 with a leaky oil pan. Has anyone replaced the old 4 piece gasket set with the new one piece silicone gasket with the steel center, without pulling the motor mount bolts on a '73 Camaro subframe? I have about 2 inches clearance and was told by a local mechanic that it is possible too loosen the pan, drop it as far as it will go (about 2 inches). Remove the old gasket and then the slip the new one piece up from under the pan and then work it over the flange (since the end pieces can be flexed out to make this possible). Of course, the old gasket must not be too adherent so it will come off without crumbling or dropping stuff in the pan.
Am I dreaming or is there any experience with this approach out there?
Rap
I've helped my friend out on his truck that was in the same bind as you are in now except the old gasket was rubber so we knew it would come off without leaving residue behind like a cork one would which requires scraping it off and proper cleaning. It was tough to get it in there but we eventually did. Personally, I wish my el camino had at least 2" of clearence under mine to where I could drop it without pullin the motor :sweat: But how bad is this leak from the oil pan? If it's something you can deal with like a couple small drips a day, then is it really worth the hassle of pulling that beast of a motor out. I'd say get some kitty litter on your garage floor under it to take care of the stains and just remember to add some oil now and then unless of course there's a fairly large puddle under it after a day then yea, you need to take care of it but chances are you're going to have to pull the motor.
pull the motor up for more clearence, could possibly do it without removing engine mount bolts. no need to remove it all the way, just enough to do what u need 2
for my 79 Malibu, the book specifies raising the motor and inserting 3" blocks between the motor mounts and brackets. while i couldnt get 3" of clearance, i did get 2 1/2" and it was sufficient enough. dont forget to rotate the crank so the timing mark on the balancer is at 6 o'clock.
This motor is in a full sized hand built '34 Mercedes 500K Heritage and there is more room to work under it. I appreciate all the replies, and I will probably let it go for now since there are indeed just a few drops after driving it. And after they fall, then there is no more dripping until it is driven again. I am taking a 200 mile trip in it this weekend and will see how much it leaks out.
Thanks for all the replies.
Getting ready to dress it up. The exhaust manifold is ceramic coated. Will be putting chrome valve covers, and air filter set on first, then chrome cover for the master cylinder. Did you notice the big reservoir above the radiator? Increases the capacity by about a gallon.
Without pulling the motor mount bolts you're not going to be able to get the pan down far enough to get the new one piece gasket in. At least I couldn't on any of the 2nd gen cars I've had (70-1/2, 72, 74, & 81).
As stated yank the distributor, and pull the bolts. You'll should be able to hit it then no problem.
I've changed 2 pan gaskets before without pulling the engine, just by removing the mount bolts and jacking them up and man, is it a pain ain:
I recommend pulling the engine and doing it out of the car. Proper gasket placement will be easier and you'll be able to get a proper, even torque on the pan bolts, which is almost impossible with the engine in the car. It will also be a good time to detail the engine, making it look that much better when you get it back in!
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