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Old 08-15-2010, 03:14 PM
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new pistons. used rods.

hello again fellas, just making sure these pistons will attach fine on the rods.'
as some of you know i just got a 1999 vortec 350 roller block in good running condition, i see no reason why i shouldnt reuse the rods, heads and crank (as long as everything checks out at the shop). i do want new pistons,cam,lifters,rockers,intake, and carb though.
SRP #867-271057
PRO SERIES 355 SBC
Flat Top
Bore: 4.030"
Stroke: 3.480"
Rod Length: 5.700"
Compression Distance: 1.560"
Dome Volume: -5cc
Gram Weight: 452
Compression Ratio: 58cc 11.1, 64cc 10.3, 70cc 9.7

Im not sure on the head specs yet. Im checking casting numbers on sunday.

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Old 08-15-2010, 03:39 PM
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You won't have any problems using stock rods on new pistons, i just wouldn't try to use then for very high compression or high rpm applications.
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:50 PM
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does this engine come with a pretty strong stock rod? steel? i only want to do this once but i really dont want to shell out 4-500 more bucks if they are good rods. im going to try to get somewhere around 450 at the crank.? it will be a daily driver probolly no strip time,some fun on the street though..
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:32 PM
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RPM and piston weight is what kills rods, not amount of power made. How much RPM do you intend to turn it up to??

Your rods are powdered metal sintered forgings, so engine builders don't like them very well.
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:44 PM
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I've got left turners that love em..
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Old 08-15-2010, 06:44 PM
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Stock rods will be fine for a 450 hp application. Just don't rev it to crazy rpms. I wouldn't go higher than 6k.
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:12 PM
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okay awsome, and the above listed pistons are the one to get? will snap onto stock rods fine?
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:15 PM
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i think the heads have 64cc chambers? thats too much compression for premium..
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:39 AM
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Unless you're going to use Nitrous or Boost= Blower/Turbo you don't really need expensive forged pistons. Shoot for around 9.5Cr with a Dish w/2VR piston or D-Dish piston, Hypereutectic will work fine for a mild street engine + much cheaper.
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/p...tails&P_id=155
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB193-030/
4.030" Bore X 3.48 Stroke,
GM .028" Gasket, .012" Deck Height, .040" Quench,
12cc D-Dish Piston, 1.561" Compression Height,
64cc Head = 9.62Cr

Last edited by SSedan64; 08-16-2010 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:28 AM
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The OEM bolts are the weakest link in this deal.

The most important thing w/reusing ANY stock rod- be it powdered metal or not- is to use ARP bolts and to resize them as needed.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAhrado
hello again fellas, just making sure these pistons will attach fine on the rods.'
as some of you know i just got a 1999 vortec 350 roller block in good running condition, i see no reason why i shouldnt reuse the rods, heads and crank (as long as everything checks out at the shop). i do want new pistons,cam,lifters,rockers,intake, and carb though.
SRP #867-271057
PRO SERIES 355 SBC
Flat Top
Bore: 4.030"
Stroke: 3.480"
Rod Length: 5.700"
Compression Distance: 1.560"
Dome Volume: -5cc
Gram Weight: 452
Compression Ratio: 58cc 11.1, 64cc 10.3, 70cc 9.7

Im not sure on the head specs yet. Im checking casting numbers on sunday.
Generally the powered metal forged rod is considered the structural equivalent of the old Pink rod which is good for the neighborhood of 400-450 HP and 6000-6200 RPM.

The powered rods are made in one piece and the cap is cracked from the shank. This means the shanks and caps are sets of each other and must remain so. Therefore, if they are not id'ed to each other you need to do that to insure shanks and caps not only stay together but also in the original orientation to each other.

Also check the main caps before pulling the bottom end apart, it's a lot easier to number them for position and arrow them for orientation before you take it apart than it is to figure this out when you want to put it together.

I say this because a lot of the newer engines do not identify rods nor main caps, so check if they are id'ed you're good to go, if they aren't get a set of numbered stamp dies and do it first thing. Saves a lot of grief.

Bogie
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Old 08-16-2010, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
The powered rods are made in one piece and the cap is cracked from the shank.
L31 and LT1 PM rods are broached not fractured on their big ends. IIRC, 4.0L and 4.6L Fords use the fractured rods.

If you are rebuilding an engine w/fractured caps, you have to fit oversize OD inserts because the cracked surfaces cannot be machined like a broached rod.
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Old 08-16-2010, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
L31 and LT1 PM rods are broached not fractured on their big ends. IIRC, 4.0L and 4.6L Fords use the fractured rods.

If you are rebuilding an engine w/fractured caps, you have to fit oversize OD inserts because the cracked surfaces cannot be machined like a broached rod.
Broaching is a surface finishing technique, it's faster and cheaper than boring or milling while holding an excellent finish and dimension as long as the tool is sharp and unworn.

Bogie
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
L31 and LT1 PM rods are broached not fractured on their big ends. IIRC, 4.0L and 4.6L Fords use the fractured rods.

If you are rebuilding an engine w/fractured caps, you have to fit oversize OD inserts because the cracked surfaces cannot be machined like a broached rod.
The high dollar Howards PM rods use the fractured cap technique, I suppose broaching has done the job well enough that GM hasn't seen fit to expand into full-scale fractured rod technology yet, for whatever reason.
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Old 08-17-2010, 12:12 AM
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well everyone wants to swing a hit at me when i talk about hypers, but for the price of those 650$ pistons, anyone know a quality piston and rod set? around the same price park.
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