O.K. I changed my old voltage regulator out as it was an old Mopar ignition - field regulator and I'm all about my Ford, anyway the lights kept flickering and my gauges kept bouncing. so I put in a new Ford 4 wire hook up voltage regulator (I.A.S.F.) which is what should have been on there for my alternator in the first place. once I had it all hooked up and mounted which was very simple, the flickering lights and bouncing gauges were a thing of the past. but now when you turn the key off the motor keeps on running it's 5. toes, until I disconnect the (A) connector at the regulator that hooks up at the BAT post on the alternator, so it seems to me that for some reason the (A) connector is spilling power over to the (I) connector on the regulator.
So does anyone have any insight as to what the problem might be, any help would be greatly appreciated.
BIG THANKS TO ALL, F100
It just might be that a diode would help. A diode allows the voltage to travel in ONE direction only and without a diode on the alternator wire that comes from the ignition, voltage can run back to the ignition causing "run on."
Hey ALAN, BIG THANKS TO YOU MAN, a diode did the trick.
and the funny thing is I had a few of them in my tool box that I used for charging capacitors back when I was installing car stereos back in the early 90s. Ironic one guitar player helping out another on the hot rodders board.
Thanks, Devin
I had no diode on mine either, and when I shut my engine off it always seemed to take a split second to react. I never knew anything about diodes until I got into the MadElectrical stuff (exlained in my link above). I bought their alternator wiring kit, wired the diode in and now, when I turn my engine off, I can't believe how good it feels to hear it REALLY shut OFF!
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