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Old 03-09-2006, 10:29 PM
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New saw.

I just got a new bandsaw. (new to me,anyway) It is a Doall Metal Master. This is a really sweet saw, It was built a long time ago In a much better time. (as evidenced by the extensive use of cast iron and further evidenced by the entries for "asbestos sheet, babbit lead and bakelite" on the speed chart on the front of the saw.) My question is, There is a foot pedal on the lower front that works an adjustable weighted pulley. You can lock the pedal in the " down" position. What was this for? Also, there is a blade welder. Where can I find the instructions for this. I have used a blade welder before on another machine so I know some of the basics, but I need a good lesson on doing it right. Thanks for reading this, mikey
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Old 03-16-2006, 03:09 PM
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The ones I've seen have the weighted pulley hooked to a chain or cable to be used as kindof a power feed.
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Old 03-16-2006, 10:06 PM
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That is interesting, A power feed on the bandsaw. Makes sense if you are cutting 1/4 or thicker steel or alum. My thumb sure gets sore when I am pushing that through. later,mikey
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Old 03-19-2006, 05:27 AM
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Powerrod.....it is an automatic feed. You take out the flat plate that the blade runs thru, put in a secondary piece, pin a "Vee" guide to it, step on the pedal, and the weights will pull your stock thru the running blade. If you look you should have a chain running under the table to a place in the back. If you open up a door on the side you should see some round weights hanging on a bar from there. Those are the weights that pulls your stock. These are adjustable with adding or removing weights. By doing this it adjust the rate of feed. Also if you don't know....there is the top adjustable bar that you adjust to clear your stock when cutting. There will be a bronze guide in there. Also directly below it at or just below table level you will have another bronze guide. These need to be replaced periodically. Those guides are what keeps your blade from twisting. Get in touch with a DoAll rep either in your area or online and they can fix you up with what you need. Also make sure that you have a couple blades of each on hand. Get a 6 tooth course blade for aluminum, wood, plastic, (staggered tooth) and either a 14 to 24 fine tooth for harder metals and thin sheetmetal. A course tooth on aluminum sheetmetal will bust the teeth right out of the blade as there is too much space between. You will get many, many, years of use out of that saw. I am attaching a quick and dirty sketch of basically what the power feed should look like if you got it wiith the saw.

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Old 03-19-2006, 09:06 AM
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Wow, thanks Kevin. That saw is a sweetheart alright. I am using it already. (I already got rid of one of my other bandsaws. I don't need 3) All of the bladeguides are intact and adjusted. They still have alot of material left. I dress them on my tool grinder. (they are even the doall brand) On this saw the weight is adjustable by a crank and screw that moves the weight up or down a lever. The lever with the pulley hangs out the back of the saw case/stand. It looks like the back of the table needs a pulley or cable guide and then the block that you describe. Now that I know the theory I can make the rest of the parts. I will order some blades from rutland or mc master carr. Blade changes are easy on that saw. It came with a good 14 tooth and my helper already knocked out some of it's teeth. He is banished from that saw for a while.

I guess I should get ahold of the doall rep to get instruction on using the blade welder.

Thank you again kevin45, I had thought this thread was over. Good things come to those who wait. Thanks,mikey
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Old 03-19-2006, 04:02 PM
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As far as the blade welder goes....I can look at our saw at work and fill you in on how it exactly works. I know that for most blades...or for the blade width...you set it for the blade width. Most blades are a 1/4" wide. Start at the `12:00 position. So you set the bottom about an 1/8" above the clamp...set the top about 1/8" below the clamp.....crank the dial around until it hits the 1/4" mark and then hit the button until it heats up and welds. then you loosen the clamp...crank it around until the 12:00 position again...clamp the clamps.... turn the dial to anneal....then keep punching the button intermittently until it glows red. After that...undo the clamps and file or hit it on the grinder on the saw. Hopefully this will explain how it is done. Although it is the weekend and sometimes explanations do not come thru so well. So experimentation is a must. When you do weld a blade though you must have a continuous loop if that makes sense.
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