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Old 04-24-2011, 12:00 AM
B.A.M.F
 
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New SBC 383 Build Opinions

Ok everyone its been a good while since i last posted so im looking for all you veterans input on my current build, here goes...

Ok starting out with a

1961 SBC 4 bolt main De-burred milled for rod clearance
Oil restrictors and oil return screens
Bored .060
4340 Forged scat lightweight crank
SRP Forged +5cc domed pistons
Scat H beam Forged Rods
Clevite Bearings
Balanced within 1 gram

CAM- ISKY CUSTOM GRIND
Solid roller .640 lift Intake-Exhaust
DUR. Int 298
EXT. 308
.050 Int 264
.050 Ext 274
Lobe Cent 108
Operating range 3500-7500 Rpm
solid roller lifters

Heads- Dart Pro 1 Aluminum
200cc runners
Angled plugs
64cc chambers
2.055 Intake
1.600 Exhaust
Roller springs 1.550
Max lift .680
7/16 studs
1.5 Roller Rockers
Thick walled 5/15 push rods
Heads CNC Machined and flowed by DART

Ignition is a Mallory Magnetic breakerless Distributor with a Mallory 6A Ign. Box with a Mallory Solid state coil

Going with a Victor Jr Intake Air-gap Single plane
looking at a Quick-fuel 850 cfm all out bracket racing carb no choke
upgraded Radiator with electric cooling fans
electric h2o pump
4000 stall converter
lightweight flex-plate

Turbo 350 tci street-fighter transmission worked over
373 rear gears with 26in tall Mickey-T street et drag radials full weight car going to be running for bracket racing. projected hp is 600.

Does this sound like a good build to those of you who have been in the racing industry? tips pointers advice? anything that will keep me on the right path will be greatly appreciated, love coming here plenty of knowledge for a life time thanks in advance

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Old 04-24-2011, 12:34 AM
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Your header says "New SBC 383 Build Opinions", but you are saying you have a 1961 4-bolt block. Small block Chevys in 1961 were 283's and I don't think any of them were 4-bolt blocks. Further, I'd be very surprised to learn that you found a scat 3.750" crank with small main bearings.
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:39 AM
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you would be correct on the 61' im trying to read the numbers off of the block from a pic i took of it id go check but the engine is currently sitting with my machinist back home in ny = as far as the main bearings the block was aligned honed but being im no machinist im sure that was bc of the new crank main sizes??
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:40 AM
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its deff a 60's block sbc 350 4bolt which is getting ALLOT of care and attention now lol. ok well i was going to upload the pic of the casting numbers but the website says my file is to big so here is the numbers


3970010 and after some google-ing iv come up with its a 1969-1979 350 sbc 4 bolt sorry for the confusion

Last edited by UPandComing; 04-24-2011 at 01:04 AM.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:01 AM
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Get a full competition race converter (8") 5000-5500stall
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:17 AM
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Do you realize you're looking at a c.r. in the 12's? That's with the piston down .025, and a thick gasket.

Also a .060/3.75, 350 block is not a 383, more like 388.

.640 lift with that much duration and domed pistons...check your V/P clearances and make sure the springs can handle that much lift before they bind.
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Old 04-24-2011, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Get a full competition race converter (8") 5000-5500stall
yes you are right on the converter iam going with an 8 incher from tci i think the 4000 stall would be a better way to be being im not running a trans brake or anything


Quote:
Originally Posted by 68NovaSS
Do you realize you're looking at a c.r. in the 12's? That's with the piston down .025, and a thick gasket.

Also a .060/3.75, 350 block is not a 383, more like 388.

.640 lift with that much duration and domed pistons...check your V/P clearances and make sure the springs can handle that much lift before they bind.
yes we are shooting for a compression ratio of at least 12.5:1 this WAS a .030 350 up until which point my machinist called me and said he had to go to .060 which i wasnt to happy with but it was to late in the game to go back, my machinist is double and triple checking everything to ensure proper geometries
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:50 PM
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Ahh. I'll assume this a race only build, unless you intend to run 104 or 108 on the street. That's a short tire, but you still might want a little more gear and a serious converter, I don't see the sense in cutting a street converter apart to make it into a reliable race piece. What's the car and weight?
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:19 PM
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yeah im goin race only with this build but my goal is to keep the car as origional as possible being the value of pontiac's these days, its tough getting much of a taller tire in there without tubbing it out , right now the 373 gears will get me goin down the track until i can pop on some 4.11s maybe even some 4.30s, no street running for this girl anymore the cops like it to much haha so ill be running 108 octane
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:34 AM
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On GM blocks its a good idea to have then sonic tested for cylinder wall thickness as we don't find to many of them that will go .060 over and be safe for a performance application.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:45 AM
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4000 stall is not enough for this combo. Let them spec the race converter stall for you.
www.atiperformance.com

wether you have a transbrake or not is not relevent. You want to leave at peak torque. But stage at very near idle rpm (1000-1200 staging rpm). (Do not power brake against the converter, at the line, set the car up to respond right off idle) it will hook harder, 60ft quicker and go faster.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 04-25-2011 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
4Do not power brake against the converter, at the line[/B], set the car up to respond right off idle) it will hook harder, 60ft quicker and go faster.

so if im understanding you correctly you are saying while im waiting for the green light i should be idling then punching the gas instead of having the rpms already up and waiting? doesnt this defeat the purpose of a stall converter being that the higher the stall the higher you can hold the rpms before the wheels start to spin? IE if its 4000 stall then i could be sitting at close to 4000 rpms before power is transfering to the wheels like when beginning a burn out?
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:13 AM
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so i just called ati performance and they got me spec'd out to a 5200 flash converter so hopefully all works out well
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Old 04-25-2011, 02:49 PM
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Considering the cam, converter, and heads you're going with I'd consider stepping up to a Super Victor intake. With the exception of your gearing everything looks set up to have power in the upper rpm range.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevymetal
Considering the cam, converter, and heads you're going with I'd consider stepping up to a Super Victor intake. With the exception of your gearing everything looks set up to have power in the upper rpm range.

im figuring the upper rpms as well this engine should be able to spin rpms real fast considering it a 49lb crank and everything is light weight and picked to match the combo for the car so im hoping for the best, my machinist called today and he is in the process of assembly so hopefully soon i can order everything else i will need to put it in and get it running, pics to follow sometime soon
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