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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 01:30 PM
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I am not very fond of the World blocks we have had in the shop, And we stopped using World blocks as there was to many issues with them and they would never take there blocks back when we found problems with them so it was costing us money to fix there problems.

And the Callies Compstar crank and rods and Mahle pistons and rings are a little more money but with the investment.

The SHP block is a good choice
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12112

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 01:44 PM
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Same here with World Merlin block, only good thing was I needed to re-machine (most) everything anyway. Decks were way off etc. etc.. etc...
Wish I'd used Dart.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 02:16 PM
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Filmjay, with the wise decision made to buy an after market block, it makes little
sense to go with a 4.030" bore. Get in touch with CNC BLOCKS NE and get him
to send you a SPH block based on a 4.125" bore.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 02:57 PM
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Genuine thanks for all the replies.

I had considered an SHP block...and with what I'm hearing about World, I think I'll be giving it another look...especially since the SHP block is about $1,000 cheaper.

Though with the recent findings that a BBC will fit rather nicely in the Z...and under stock hood height...I think I'm gonna try and spec out something a little bigger. Probably in the vicinity of 400 mains.
Block I've Chosen for a BBC spec ...has more features that the World SBC Motown block...and is STILL about $700 cheaper. Splayed mains, already clearanced for stroker crank, tapped for external oil pump, Valley Stud Bosses, etc...

Too bad the SHP blocks only come in SBC configuration though. The less machining and cleanup, the better.

Last edited by Filmjay; 12-07-2008 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 12-07-2008, 03:03 PM
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600 hp and 383 cubes = 1.57 That's pretty stout for normally apirated and the short rod ratio. The 4.125 bore 401 would be an idea.

I think that I might consider rear mounted twin turbos just to stay away from the high rpm to make the power.
IMO rpm is more of a destroyer than boost.

And what about front end weight bias? especially with a big block?
And the rear end?
Shouldn't this thing handle well also?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 03:13 PM
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Handling is why the small block is a good choice. A BBC puts a lot of weight
over the front axle.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 03:26 PM
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Filmjay, have you looked at alternatives to the Dynatek system? Blower Drive Service has stepped up to the plate with an EFI system using mechanical FI manifolds. Your choice of bug-catchers or individual runners.

http://blowerdriveservice.com/catego...pany_id=101011

http://blowerdriveservice.com/ART/EFI/EFIpic11.jpg
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoTFrenzel
600 hp and 383 cubes = 1.57 That's pretty stout for normally apirated and the short rod ratio. The 4.125 bore 401 would be an idea.

I think that I might consider rear mounted twin turbos just to stay away from the high rpm to make the power.
IMO rpm is more of a destroyer than boost.
I'm staying NA. With the type of intake I'm using (downdraft EFI), forced induction isn't going to be much of an option unless I fab up a couple air boxes. And once I get into that area, hood clearance become an issue. NO hood mods.
Quote:
And what about front end weight bias? especially with a big block?
And the rear end?
Shouldn't this thing handle well also?
Weight is very important...especially since a Z already has near perfect 50/50 balance. With a SBC in a Z, it only adds about 40lbs to the front of the car over stock, which is easily offset by relocating the battery. The difference in weight of a BBC to a SBC is only about 50-75lbs(based on an iron head Olds 455). Which can be offset further by using aluminum heads..to save nearly 100lbs..AND still relocate the battery and retain the near perfect balance. Even at a 51/49 or 52/48, it's still a pretty formidable machine...especially at approx. 2600lbs....before I stuff my big butt into it.

I'm doing my homework...and not straying too far from the original vision.

Last edited by Filmjay; 12-07-2008 at 03:36 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Filmjay, have you looked at alternatives to the Dynatek system? Blower Drive Service has stepped up to the plate with an EFI system using mechanical FI manifolds. Your choice of bug-catchers or individual runners.

http://blowerdriveservice.com/catego...pany_id=101011

http://blowerdriveservice.com/ART/EFI/EFIpic11.jpg
Thanks. I hadn't seen the BDS units. But the reason I like the Dynatek system is that it still LOOKS like Webers. There's no fuel rails or visible injectors. It's pretty trick.
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Old 12-07-2008, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filmjay
I'm staying NA.

Weight is very important...especially since a Z already has near perfect 50/50 balance. With a SBC in a Z, it only adds about 40lbs to the front of the car,

The difference in weight of a BBC to a SBC is only about 50-75lbs(based on an iron head Olds 455). Which can be offset further by using aluminum heads..to save nearly 100lbs..

I'm doing my homework.
I did not realize that an aluminum head BBC/trans would be lighter than the original Z.
WOW

Last edited by ScoTFrenzel; 12-07-2008 at 03:41 PM.
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Old 12-07-2008, 03:42 PM
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Chevy small block V8 575 lbs (iron heads and intake)
Chevy big block V8 685 lbs (iron heads and intake)

In my 67 Camaro the front end sits 2" lower with the BBC, 100 lbs feels like a ton.
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Old 12-07-2008, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoTFrenzel
I did not realize that an aluminum head BBC is lighter than an aluminum head SBC383.

Would that be lighter than the original Z engine?
Not lighter. In a V8 swap, after battery relocation, the difference on the front of the car would be less than 50lbs. But the difference is negligible since I'm not building a track car.

Based on stock weights, a SBC is about 40lbs heavier than the stock Datsun I6....give or take. A BBC is about 100lbs heavier than the SBC. That's 140-150lbs heavier than stock. With aluminum heads and battery relocation on a BBC, the weight on the front can be brought down by 130-140lbs....retaining the near perfect weight balance.

stock Datsun L28 I6 - 523 lbs.
stock iron SBC - 575lbs.
stock iron BBC - 685lbs.

Using other lightweight components throughout the engine bay will shave off those extra lbs. Still, I can deal with 10, 20, or even, 30 extra lbs if it means 100 more hp.

Last edited by Filmjay; 12-07-2008 at 04:07 PM.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 04:08 PM
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WOW, that Datsun engine is a heavy little sucker.
Thanks for the explanation.

How about those trannys? and differentials?
How much is the total vehicle weight increased.

You are giving me ideas. The last few months I have been leaning toward some project like this.
The Ferrari replica looks great!
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filmjay
Thanks. I hadn't seen the BDS units. But the reason I like the Dynatek system is that it still LOOKS like Webers. There's no fuel rails or visible injectors. It's pretty trick.
Hmmmm, so the look of Webers trumps the look of mechanical fuel injection? Hmmmmm.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2008, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoTFrenzel
WOW, that Datsun engine is a heavy little sucker.
Thanks for the explanation.

How about those trannys? and differentials?
How much is the total vehicle weight increased.

You are giving me ideas. The last few months I have been leaning toward some project like this.
The Ferrari replica looks great!
I'm using a T5 trans, and staying with a stock R200 IRS. The 5-speed 280 originally came with a BW T5. The R200, with stock half-shafts, were actually "over-built" from the factory and are still being run today in 1,000hp drag cars.
Although, the configuration I've spec'd uses billet braces, mustache bar, and coil overs instead of struts, so that will save a little more weight.
All total, the weight and balance of the car doesn't stray too far from 50/50 and 2600lbs. (w/out driver) The V8 swap, if done correctly, actually offsets the motor about 3/4 of an inch to the passenger side to somewhat account for the weight of the driver. Though some Z purists will argue this point.

It's definitely NOT a cheap project. But, it's definitely cool to me, and well worth doing right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Hmmmm, so the look of Webers trumps the look of mechanical fuel injection? Hmmmmm.
Considering that I want it to use a domestic engine and look like the vintage Ferrari engine as much as I can...yes, it does indeed.

This looks more like this than this does.

Last edited by Filmjay; 12-07-2008 at 05:46 PM. Reason: edited double quotes
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