[leverhead]

Raceman,
Thanks for the input. Actually the cam is being sent back for a full refund. I'll be going with a custom grind from Crane - i like their billet stock and their cam specs more closely resemble what I need for this motor and my altitude here in NM. Should be a 'normal' grind with cast gear. I'll also be changing out the springs with their recommended springs (150 seated @ 1.8, 340 @ 1.3). I'm also running an Isky rev kit so I can get away with much lower pressure with that also.

The base varied from .903 to .908 when myself and a 3rd party mic'ed it. Yes I have Eagle H beam stroker rods (6") and they are very close but enough clearance with the small BC. Also we mic'ed the lobes and they were inconsistent in height and width all along the length of the cam....and not a split pattern like I ordered. This was a wierd one.

I'll be swapping out the intake rockers for 1.6 with the replacement cam for some added lift as the exhaust is fine but the intake could use some extra.

Yes the endplay will be set when I mock up the new one. The previous one had some serious alignment issues (inconsistent pattern throughout the length of the cam and very close to the inside edge) and that was with a thin .030 brass ring behind the gear and the cam pushed all the way in. It still had approx .025 or more of endplay. I'm expecting the next cam to align with the lifters correctly (and wider lobes) then I can get the gear alignment and endplay correct.

Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know. Regards.

[raceman14]

Lever,
When you say endplay where are you measuring?

If the cam is bottomed against the block and you have a shim in there how are you getting end play?

Is the timing chain pulling the cam forward and you push it back .025"?

I ask because I am trying to make sure you don't have additional problems.

[leverhead]

Racer,
Good morning. I'm checking the gap between the cam button and timing cover....cam 'walk' if you will.

I had the cam pushed in against the torrington thrust bearing (just a plain brass washer or ring - about .030 thickness) and a roller type cam button in front.

The chain is not pulling it forward. I installed the cover then pulled the cam forward to see how much it walked.

Thanks for asking.

Also to note, my intake valves are 2.08 (124.8 grams vs 116.5 grams for a 2.05) so I'm still trying to factor in spring weight and rev kit spring pressure and wonder if the crane springs (part# 99893 - 150 seated @ 1.8, 340 @ 1.3) will be enough.

[raceman14]

OK, The distance between the cam button and the timing cover needs to be shimmed to .001" or as close as you can get. You can buy small shims, you can even use brass or steel washers the same OD as the hole in your timing chain. As long as the cam button stays in place the shims will never go anywhere.

If you have not checked the vertical dimensions of the timing gear and the crank gear you should. In 35 years of building SBC's I have never found them to be closer than .005". To zero drag and distributor timing scatter you need to get that number as close to .001" as possible once you determine where your cam gear is going to be you have to place shims between the crank and the crank gear. If you can't find them I have them made 100 at a time in small .001" .005" increments. It might be overkill as most timing chains have enough slop in them to compensate for some mis-alignment, if you want you engine to run like a top, it does not take that much longer to do it right and it is not real expensive, just time consuming.

Once you get the little bugs worked out you will see how rock solid your timing gets as the ring gear on the cam can vary timing a couple degrees just on .005" slop.

[leverhead]

Thanks Racer. I'll let you know if I need the shims...they may come in handy. I probably won't have the cam and springs for another 10 days or so. Regards.