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New to uphostery and need help.

4K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  sbutler 
#1 ·
I want to learn how to upholster (trim) and recently started a evening class at the local high school to learn some of the basics, unfortunaley, it's a class mostly designed for women who want to make their own clothes... but I am learning. Now to the help I'm looking for: I was given a Singer 111W155 machine that I was told works well but it needs a new cog wheel (?) belt put on. I have the belt but can't figure out how much of the machine needs to come apart to be able to put the belt on. It appears to me that the main shaft needs to come out and I don't have a clue as to how to do that. Any guideance would be appreciated. I have searched online, I've looked at the Army and Air Force manuals and still can't seem to find any directions to help me.
Thanks in advance, Fast Jimmy.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I suggest this to everyone who gets a used industrial sewing machine. Don't try to do this yourself, changing that belt is not easy. Take it to a professional sewing machine mechanic, have him set the timing, set the tensions, and check the machine out for worn or broken parts. Have him put the belt on at the same time. It will be the best money you ever spent. That way you start out with the machine sewing like it should right from the git-go. Also, if you got any thread with it use that thread for practice only. Why ruin a project by using bad thread?

If you really want to ignore this advice and try to do it yourself, check out page 12 of this service manual: http://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/211W155.pdf This is a 211W and not a 111W, but you'll get the idea. If you don't do this correctly, the machine will be out of time and then you have a whole new problem.
 
#5 ·
Read Dan's info

I don't know if you have been to the interior section here on hotrodders, DanTwoLakes is a professional upholsterer and has posted lots and lots of info here on hotrodders. It would be really nice if the new owners would do an eBook like cBoy's scratch built hotrod. Thanks for all your contributions Dan:thumbup::thumbup:
 
#7 ·
I don't know if you have been to the interior section here on hotrodders, DanTwoLakes is a professional upholsterer and has posted lots and lots of info here on hotrodders. It would be really nice if the new owners would do an eBook like cBoy's scratch built hotrod. Thanks for all your contributions Dan:thumbup::thumbup:
Thank you Tim. My opinion is that you can't learn upholstery work with books or pictures, so if I ever do anything like that it will be DVDs. I would also like to do a DVD on the care and feeding of the industrial sewing machine. That one would be first.
 
#6 ·
Thanks

Thanks for the replies. Dan's response with the 211 info was very helpful. I'v actually looked for a service person by talking with a local trim shop and a shoe repair store. The trim shop guy says he does his own repair work but won't work on anybody else's and the shoe repair guy says his guy won't work on machines that old. I'd rather have an experienced person do it but I may be forced to take it upon myself.
Fast Jimmy
 
#9 ·
Thanks to Dan for all the time he puts into helping others. I am just starting to tackle this sewing thing. My brothers hot rod shop gave me an old Consew and I am having it gone through so I don't start with something that has a problem. He says he will "port and polish" parts of the machine. Is he taking advantage of a total beginner? Seems like a stand-up guy. Steve
 
#10 ·
I think he was just referring to checking and cleaning the machine. There's no "port and polish" that needs to be done to any sewing machine parts.
 
#12 ·
repairman

Well, I've found a repairman that makes service calls and he'll be in town next week and will look my 111W155 over and put the timing belt on for me. He says he's worked on this model before and sounded knowledgeable.
Thanks for the advice. Fast Jimmy
 
#14 ·
repairman

So I had timing belt installed and my machine looked over and adjusted by a repairman who's main job is maintaining machines for an industrial sewing manufacturer. He was kind enough to walk me through the whole process and described everything he was doing and why it needed to be that way. Then he ran some test samples and showed me what adjustments affected the stitches and how it affected them. It was well worth the effort to find this guy and well worth the cost. Now I can try to sew. Fast Jimmy
 
#16 ·
Well guys, picked up my Consew 225 from the repairman. He told me it sews like a dream now.....to the tune of 389.00 which included rebuilding the control box on the motor. The outside was cleaned up and looked nice but when I opened the door on the left of the machine, it looked like it had not been touched. I would have at least blown the carpet fabric remnants out. Looked on the back of the machine, under the lip portion and it still had carpet residue up in the crack. It was used to sew floor mats in a former life. Live and learn I guess. I did buy 4 packs of 10 needles in an assortment of sizes, two spools of thread and two boxes of pre-wound bobbins. Ready to give it a try. I appreciate your help and look forward to more schooling from the forum. Steve
 
#17 ·
Well....tried to sew a scrap piece with my Consew 225 that I just paid $389 to have serviced. Besides all the trash inside of the door on the left, the door was so loose it was about to fall off. He didn't even attempt to tighten it. There was no signs of fresh oil in there either. I told him I was a complete novice and would like a variable speed motor put on like one that my brother had put on his machine. He assured me it wasn't necessary. I assumed the stock one would start slow and speed up with pressure on the foot plate. Boy was I wrong! This thing runs wide open, which is way too fast for me. Machine is going back to the store owner so he can see what I am talking about and hopefully understand my request for at least half of my money back.
 
#19 ·
The top thread will always feel tighter than the bobbin thread because it is going through a lot more places than the bobbin thread. You will only feel slight resistance from the bobbin thread when you pull it out. When you actuate the knee lift or raise the foot manually, it releases the tension disks on the upper tension to allow you to pull thread out easier. Don't try to pull thread through the machine without doing one of those two things. Yeah, the guy sounds like he hosed you on the check-up.
You can replace the clutch motor that is on the machine now with a servo motor and do it yourself, but you may need a slightly different belt. My recommendation is the Sew Quiet 5000, which sells for around $200 with free shipping.
 
#20 ·
Thanks Dan, I made another mistake.... machine is a Consew 255RB-3, if that matters. I pulled the end cover off the motor and it had two handfuls of carpet fiber in it. I am not exagerating on the amount. The air intakes were also full. I took a lot of pictures of this. I am going to the owner and ask for all my money back because I don't think he touched it other than to clean the outside of the machine. Thanks, Again
 
#21 ·
The 255 RB-3 ( I have one) has a large bobbin and is self oiling, but is otherwise pretty much just like the 226R. Don't know how the guy could have looked at the machine without blowing out all that crap. "Air intakes"? No such thing on a sewing machine. A sewing machine is never starved for air like an engine could be. That would be like a fishing reel being starved for air.
 
#22 ·
Boy Guys, this went South in a hurry. Ended up in one of the biggest cuss fights over a phone I have ever been involved in. This guy is crazy, enough so that I carry my gun EVERYWHERE with me. I think it's time to just write off the screwing I got and stay out of prison. He works on contract for the store owner and he says he is not responsible for this nut. Moovin' on. Steve
 
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