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new video on fixing big dents

6K views 30 replies 8 participants last post by  tech69 
#1 ·
#5 ·
Lizer said:
you made that skim coating look way too easy. I would have liked to see how big of a batch of filler you had on your pallette. Was that all a single batch or did you have to remix?
2 spot coats and 2 skim coats. It doesn't take much when you skim as long as you at least spot coat all the dents and dings first. At that point the skim is just bridging it together but that door dent was kind of big so it called for more than one skim, but I probably could have gotten it all in one skim if I sat all day and metal worked on it. For that door it took 4 hours just to get it ready for filler. Anymore time and the boss is looking at me funny.


Today I did the other side of the door and it was just stripping the door, welding old repair holes, and pushing out the middle about an inch but since it was 95 degrees the mudding process was a nightmare. In the video I skimmed the bottom of the door in one shot, today that section took me two to three applications just to get it close, and today was only 5-10 degrees hotter.
 
#6 ·
I usually dont watch body work vidios and actually this is the first one I watched of yours. Its pretty good,I could use a few pointers (on the vidio) .Was that a regular camera or one made just for vidios?(I really liked the fast foward) .
That dosen't seem like too bad of a shop to work in ,plenty of nice, older cars (like the 56 chebbie),One question though,how did you know if the contour of the door matched the contour of the fender? I usually trial fit the fender about 50 times to be sure ,did you just omit that part ,concentrating on the door? its an important step that should be shown so the less experianced can know how you got the right shape.....
That said you got that done pretty quick how would you like to make the whole skin yourself and not use any bondo???? Me too, if only I had that kind of talent...I'm trying though, maybe in 20 more years.
BTW,theres always a place for you to work in Augusta,Ga. if you ever find yourself around here..and maybe teach an old fart how to shoot a good vidio....
I liked it....
 
#7 ·
Lizer said:
you made that skim coating look way too easy. I would have liked to see how big of a batch of filler you had on your pallette. Was that all a single batch or did you have to remix?
Also, do you go light on the hardener? It seems like you have a lot more "working time" than I'm accustomed to. If that is the fact, does it affect the cured strength?

Russ
 
#8 ·
deadbodyman said:
I usually dont watch body work vidios and actually this is the first one I watched of yours. Its pretty good,I could use a few pointers (on the vidio) .Was that a regular camera or one made just for vidios?(I really liked the fast foward) .
That dosen't seem like too bad of a shop to work in ,plenty of nice, older cars (like the 56 chebbie),One question though,how did you know if the contour of the door matched the contour of the fender? I usually trial fit the fender about 50 times to be sure ,did you just omit that part ,concentrating on the door? its an important step that should be shown so the less experianced can know how you got the right shape.....
That said you got that done pretty quick how would you like to make the whole skin yourself and not use any bondo???? Me too, if only I had that kind of talent...I'm trying though, maybe in 20 more years.
BTW,theres always a place for you to work in Augusta,Ga. if you ever find yourself around here..and maybe teach an old fart how to shoot a good vidio....
I liked it....
Thanks. Yeah, we checked it but it was cumbersome cause there's no rad support on it so someone held it up while I checked it. Didn't want to annoy the guy holding the fender so I could set up my camera. The fender was actually more out of shape. Had to put 2x4's under it and stand on it to get the right shape before finally being confident that everything was flush. I actually did mention fitting it up but it was on a clip where I start metal working the fender and I didn't want to make the video too long so it kind of made the clip irrelevent cause I wasn't showing the fender work.
 
#9 ·
S10xGN said:
Also, do you go light on the hardener? It seems like you have a lot more "working time" than I'm accustomed to. If that is the fact, does it affect the cured strength?

Russ
On that day it was 80 degrees. When it hits 90+ I try to not fill big panels. I'll usually do the spot filling and find something else to do then the next morning do my final skim coats. There's enough hardener always.
 
#10 ·
tech69 said:
Thanks. Yeah, we checked it but it was cumbersome cause there's no rad support on it so someone held it up while I checked it. Didn't want to annoy the guy holding the fender so I could set up my camera. The fender was actually more out of shape. Had to put 2x4's under it and stand on it to get the right shape before finally being confident that everything was flush. I actually did mention fitting it up but it was on a clip where I start metal working the fender and I didn't want to make the video too long so it kind of made the clip irrelevent cause I wasn't showing the fender work.
You mean that cheap SOB wouldnt buy another fender???? I can see why you get frustrated with him...
When you figure out your hours and materials fixing that door and fender wouldn't it be cheaper to get replacements.how many hours do you have into them? I would think at least 15 hrs
 
#11 · (Edited)
deadbodyman said:
You mean that cheap SOB wouldnt buy another fender???? I can see why you get frustrated with him...
When you figure out your hours and materials fixing that door and fender wouldn't it be cheaper to get replacements.how many hours do you have into them? I would think at least 15 hrs
the old man is on one fender and it took him the amount of time it took me to fix the fender and driver's door. About a day on each. Welding on each too. The other door was pushed in as well and had to repair kind of the same way as other door.

Boss doesn't know crap about the trade but his pride gets into the way of ever learning about it. Just an idiot. I rather not even talk procedures with him anymore. Just too stupid.
 
#12 ·
so to follow up on the Gran sport I was shocked to learn that the painter decided to only prime the parts once! :spank: I guess the boss didn't like the time he takes to mask so he gave him less hours and inturn he decides to only prime it once, without us knowing about it beforehand, of course. I feel we need to have a heads up on that sort of stuff but we came out ok on this one.

Here's the door from the video and I'm happy it's show straight with only 3 coats of primer.



This door was like the one in the video. Had to fix it with a spreader and it was in about and inch in the middle like the other door.


This fender is adjacent to the messed up door I fixed in the video. It was taco'd in two directions. I fixed it with two 2x4's and stomping on it. Apparently, I see a imperfection around the wheel crown, which is secondary damage from the taco'ing. Other than that it turned out great but just wish I knew the aim was to only prime it once. It looks great though...I'm just beating myself up over this.


the hood came out pretty good and was messed up bad but I'd never just prime an old school hood just once, but that's just my opinion.
 
#14 · (Edited)
64 Skylark with a 65 Gran Sport glove box door. :) It is a damn good video. The only thing I do differently would be the spreading of the filler, I go with the body lines. Of course on the top you need to go down but on the bottom it would be door long passes with the bodyline for me. But damn very nice stuff Henry.

Brian
 
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#18 ·
And if it was a Gran Sport the fenders would have had holes welded up, long rectangular holes, three or four of them where the "gills" mounted at the back near the door below the body line. There were no side mouldings on Gran Sports, but also on Specials there were none.

If it is a 64 or early 65 it would have had holes all down the body for these mouldings, mid year 65 they went to the studs to mount them. The 64 and early 65 also had a down flow rad where the late 65 had a cross flow. I could go on and on with Gran Sport stuff like the battery is mounted on the left side and the skylark is on the right.

Brian
 
#19 ·
right on. I think it could be a 65. I did a slight pull to the tail light panel and recall mocking up those huge tail lights. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. The fenders had the long holes all along the fender. I welded them up. Not sure on the other stuff but will check on the dash pad and bumper and all that. Thanks again.
 
#28 ·
Brian, thanks for firing me up on my 66. I think this weekend I might get part of the top on. I made the spacers for the rear bow last weekend and installed them. This week I've been hammering on a 68 Camaro and will hopefully paint it next week. Working evenings on client stuff doesn't allow for quick progress. Me and my family projects are my weekend work now.
 
#29 ·
I don't know what has gotten over on me but I haven't had the energy to do anything. Plus that top kinda kicked my butt, I can admit it, kinda discouraged. I hope to get out there and take another attack on it this weekend.

Brian
 
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