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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2012, 12:45 PM
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new video up! Lower door skins!

Some good tips for doing lower door skins. What's not shown or spoke of is the tendency for the skin to want to curl downwards unless you cut it all the way accross the bottom. This was a partial cut so I had to place things inside the door to prop it up to where it belongs before welding. In the end it turned out well. Another thing to mention is that I flanged the skin and not the replacement metal cause flanging something as small as the replacement metal would stretch the metal and mess with the bottom (gap to rocker).

Also has some pics of the green 67 Camaro on it's final day at the shop. Enjoy!


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Old 07-18-2012, 06:54 PM
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Not bad tech, the vid is great...
Since nobody responded .I have a few suggestions that'll make that repair faster ,last longer and easier to do your filler work if you want to hear them...you can post or PM me ,it dosent matter,I'm just trying to help a fellow working grunt with what I've learned...maybe you can help me post a vid just like yours in exchange...
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Old 07-18-2012, 07:21 PM
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well let us all know then. I'm humble enough to take advice and not feel my ego get in the way. One thing that wasn't shown was drizzling some por 15 into the door and seam sealing the seam but I haven't gotten around to it yet anyways.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:30 AM
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well,Your absolutely right to make the flange on the door skin,You always want the open end pointing downward so it dosnt collect water and rust out.
The next time your rnear your brake fold a piece of steel and look down the edge (gunsight) for straightness ,I dont think the flange or the welding is curving the edge its the brake blade bending slightly under the stress.

Its unusual to see the center of the door rust and the ends still in good shape,usually the ends (corners) go first...I used to just repair the holes but I learned its faster to replace the whole bottom by making a straight cut all the way across ... also the section you leave might be ok now but in a year theres a good chance it'll start rusting through.I usually go 4" if I do a bottom skin...One of the nice things about using a flanged seam is you can use the driill screws to hold it all together .everyone knows using a backing plate makes welding easier right? well try screwing a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum to the backside of the seam it acts as a backing plate when welding but it also keeps the seam straight and stiff so it wont warp.when your done welding just remove the screws and the reinforcing backer ,it sure makes light work of the finishing..
So....how the heck did you get that vid so all anyone has to do id hit the play button.....I love it ,much better and easier than posting a link..
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:19 AM
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Yep Henry makes some great videos.
I have another tip for the both of you that you may or may not have heard of. I picked up one a "hand break" for sheet metal ducting work at a garage sale once and it REALLY works well on door skins where there is a straight line like the bottom of the door (or the top on a late model car too).

You still have to start the bend with your hammer and dolly but you finish it off with this hand break and it works like a charm with much less hammer marks on the folded piece, they really work well. And they are NOT like a duck bill Vice grip, they come straight down more like a vice than like pliers as the Vice grips do.

Brian

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Old 07-19-2012, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
well,Your absolutely right to make the flange on the door skin,You always want the open end pointing downward so it dosnt collect water and rust out.
The next time your rnear your brake fold a piece of steel and look down the edge (gunsight) for straightness ,I dont think the flange or the welding is curving the edge its the brake blade bending slightly under the stress.

Its unusual to see the center of the door rust and the ends still in good shape,usually the ends (corners) go first...I used to just repair the holes but I learned its faster to replace the whole bottom by making a straight cut all the way across ... also the section you leave might be ok now but in a year theres a good chance it'll start rusting through.I usually go 4" if I do a bottom skin...One of the nice things about using a flanged seam is you can use the driill screws to hold it all together .everyone knows using a backing plate makes welding easier right? well try screwing a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum to the backside of the seam it acts as a backing plate when welding but it also keeps the seam straight and stiff so it wont warp.when your done welding just remove the screws and the reinforcing backer ,it sure makes light work of the finishing..
So....how the heck did you get that vid so all anyone has to do id hit the play button.....I love it ,much better and easier than posting a link..
good stuff. I think it just looks funky along the bottom in the pic but it's really straight. I noticed that and wish I took more pics cause that particular pic look like a wide angle pic for some reason. There was no cause for alarm on that but was troubling was the bend the brake made. It wasn't sharp enough and wasn't sure the edge would follow the bend like it was supposed to. I didn't go all the way accross cause the brake sucks and can't take big pieces so I just did two pieces as long as I could make them and that's what I got. I knew I should have made another but the boss was already griping so I did the best I could have while keeping the boss at bay. not going across all the way forced the door down and had to prop it up at the seam.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Yep Henry makes some great videos.
I have another tip for the both of you that you may or may not have heard of. I picked up one a "hand break" for sheet metal ducting work at a garage sale once and it REALLY works well on door skins where there is a straight line like the bottom of the door (or the top on a late model car too).

You still have to start the bend with your hammer and dolly but you finish it off with this hand break and it works like a charm with much less hammer marks on the folded piece, they really work well. And they are NOT like a duck bill Vice grip, they come straight down more like a vice than like pliers as the Vice grips do.

Brian

Those are called hand seamers made for aluminum siding and duct work,I have a pair and they're very handy
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Old 07-20-2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
good stuff. I think it just looks funky along the bottom in the pic but it's really straight. I noticed that and wish I took more pics cause that particular pic look like a wide angle pic for some reason. There was no cause for alarm on that but was troubling was the bend the brake made. It wasn't sharp enough and wasn't sure the edge would follow the bend like it was supposed to. I didn't go all the way accross cause the brake sucks and can't take big pieces so I just did two pieces as long as I could make them and that's what I got. I knew I should have made another but the boss was already griping so I did the best I could have while keeping the boss at bay. not going across all the way forced the door down and had to prop it up at the seam.
Something I used to do was go to the sheetmetal shop or someone that does custom duct work and have them fold me up some 4-6" wide pieces 10' long(universal door bottoms) for a few bucks and cut them as needed,half of one (5') is plenty long enough for almost any two door car ...something else I did is have them brake afew 3/4 x 3/4 at a 90 degree angle for things like the bottom of the inner door for the outer lip to fold over.heres a pic of a stang deck that the inner structure was rotted out but the outter skin was still in good shape..Thinking back I should have done the bottom skin also even though the boss said not to if I didnt HAVE too.. it was a 69 428 0r 426 (not sure...Cobra jet??) Boss mustang that the owner had since it was new ,his dad bought it for him when he graduated in 69 ...he's retired but he was some kind of superviser over all schools in Augusta...( a big wig) I guess but a super nice guy...I should have ignored the cheapass boss and done what I knew was best...even he would've got all the credit and more business..nobody remembers the grunt that does all the work...
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 07-20-2012 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:56 PM
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OH Heck, Everybody likes the pics ....heres a couple more..all I got..
The whole bottom of the innerstructure was replaced andthe corners hammerd out by eye, up about 5' and a simple 90 degree lip for the skin to fold onto...
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Old 07-20-2012, 08:15 PM
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when doing a flange joint on a skin you'll notice you cant flange the last 1-2 inchesbecause the inner structure is in the way...also you might be tempted toflatten the excess flanged new piece and slip it under the old one insted of making a but joint on on the ends...DONT DO IT...it'll make a high spot you will never get out..so make a but joint on the ends...the last pic is showing but on my old plymouth door.You might have to zoom in ,sorry I dont know how to do that AND post the pic....
OH yeah,this one was a bit of a challenge ,it had a wicked roll (curve) in it,It took about twenty times bending it over a couple pieces of scrape pipeand fitting again but I got it...Thank God for drill screws...
If you look real close you'll notice I have the flange upside down,the replacement piece has the flange so the open end is on the top able to collect water....Hey, I couldnt flange that rounded skin,my flanger would keep straightening it out...so I'll seam sea lit real good and let it fly ....in 20 yrs if it rots out its my sons problem (inhierited) he should have stuck around and learned bodywork,but not as a living (God no) but as a great hobby...
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 07-20-2012 at 08:32 PM.
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