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Old 09-22-2011, 06:20 PM
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New video up...restoring instument gauge/ bug from hell / roof skin

enjoy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz-0aGH-smI

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Old 09-22-2011, 08:01 PM
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I always like your videos,,

had to buy a customer a $300 side glass once because of a couple weld sparks pitted the glass and ever since put some kind of cover on nearby glass and mirrors even if its cardboard..
just saying what I learned the hard way
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:25 PM
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yeah, you need to get those metal clips to hold the welding blanket high. Unfortunately we don't have them so I had to make due.

Last edited by tech69; 09-22-2011 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:54 AM
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deleted the video due to a bug in the audio. Fixed it and here's the real video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGcz6cD4uvU
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:29 AM
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You did a great job Henry, I love those jobs, turned out great.
If you want to cut some time off and make a little less work get yourself a punch instead of drilling those holes. This is one of those tools that I got it for doing custom fab stuff but after I started using it in collision work I found it to be VERY valuable. When you punch the hole you don't have the burrs hanging down on the underside that you have to grind off to get the panel to fit flat. There is no chance of distortion from pushing the drill down, and it is much faster to punch a bunch of holes, pop, pop, pop, you can really rock and roll thru something like that.



I have the "XX" as pictured and the "Jr" for smaller holes and I wouldn't work without them again I'll tell you that!

Brian
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Old 09-23-2011, 04:45 PM
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wow, I didn't know they made those that could punch deep into the panel as opposed to the standard ones you see that punch TINY holes right on the edge. You're right, I'll get some of those. It's annoying having to hammer and dolly it straight after hammering. What brand is that hole puncher?

Milo had great advice to about the welding.

Thanks guys.
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:16 PM
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Martin, I have a question. What's the best way to handle the cross members?
I cut the foam off at the roof so there would still be some in wait for the new skin. Then I throw a little black silicone to adhere the foam to the roof. This is how the boss wanted it done. Not sure of expansion rates and all that for silicone or if that's a problem. Seemed like leaving the foam intact as much as possible was a good idea but just not sure about the silicone. Any suggestions?
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:20 PM
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Henry, that is just what I have always done with door skins too. Shave the anti flutter foam off the old skin with a razor and then smear a little window urethane or urethane seam sealer over it when the new skin was laid into place. And low and behold at an ICAR class last week on foams that is exactly what they told us to do. They used a product they call "sound dampening material" that looked like simple urethane window bed to me, and that is exactly what the instructor said, they were one in the same.

Yes Henry, those hole punches they sell for autobody are junk if you ask me, WAY too limited in uses. My XX like the one pictured will do just about anything! Not only that you can punch all different size holes up to half inch! And if you want to spend the bucks you can get different shape dies like square if you wanted.

Brian
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Old 09-24-2011, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
I always like your videos,,

had to buy a customer a $300 side glass once because of a couple weld sparks pitted the glass and ever since put some kind of cover on nearby glass and mirrors even if its cardboard..
just saying what I learned the hard way
Grinding sparks will pit glass too. We always called it fly****, LOL.
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:16 AM
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When it comes to welding and grinding EXTREME caution must be taken. I have seen glass on cars NEXT to the one being worked on destroyed. And how about interiors? I have burnt a seat, had to buy a new one. A guy at work burnt a leather seat in a new Toyota, $1700 for the cover alone!

Brian
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:18 AM
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I didn't want to nit pick but sitting on the dash, also a BIG NO NO. Not only can the back side of a blanket scratch it but you could break it as well. Get yourself a small stool to get those spots up in the middle of the roof.

Brian
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:32 AM
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Henry, I didn't watch this with sound the first time, you should never put filler over a weld like that. The entire hole should be welded, and if it isn't, simply weld that "half moon" up, don't ever fill it with "bondo". Not only that but in the pinch welds you most certainly don't want any kind of filler. It should be bare metal with epoxy primer over it, period, nothing but bare metal with epoxy primer over it, and NOT painted. Where the urethane bed goes it should never be anything but OEM paint or epoxy primer over bare metal.

Brian
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:05 PM
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yes, the holes are always filled with metal. It's just that a few are dimpled too far down. There was probably one weld where there was a tiny tiny hole and I filled it with kitty hair. For the other areas, I don't see a purpose if there's no hole at all and completely filled with metal. For the window channel I strip it completely and let the painter side deal with it.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:00 PM
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Nice video. That turn light ordeal on the bug must have sucked. Them darned turn light screws.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69
What brand is that hole puncher?
As far as I know, the good ones are made by Roper-Whitney.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:12 AM
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I actually think it could have been the bulbs but the boss didn't want to check on line to find the exact bulbs. Otherwise, I don't know how they could have been drawing all those amps and busting fuses. The bulbs with two contacts were all facing the right way and so when I changed the wires it had to be an issue with too much amps and I instantly thought it was the bulbs. Still not sure but by isolating it and putting the rears on their own fuse, the rears actually looked brighter
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