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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2004, 11:15 AM
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Iff this wire is as good as you blokes reckon , I hope i can get it in aus ,, ..

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2004, 11:38 AM
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YA I know..It's a gas wire...Some confuse it with flux core...because it is a "cored" wire..but the core's not filled with flux..it's powdered metal..thanks for the heat advise

Keith
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Old 09-20-2004, 05:34 PM
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Well mine came in the mail today. So hopefull by the weekend I'll had a chance to try it.
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Old 09-20-2004, 07:08 PM
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Let us Know

Let me know what you think? What did you pay for it??

OI know I got mine to cheap, the guy made a major BooBoo charging me $25 for a10lb Spool..
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Old 09-20-2004, 07:19 PM
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I haven't been billed yet..my quess is $25.00 is the 2 lb spool price
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:20 PM
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I heard about this wire several months ago on another thread on here, so I decided to try it myself. I have a Hobart 135 that was blowing holes through body panels like a tommy gun with the wire that I got along with my bottle. I'm a total newbie to mig welding, so I needed every advantage I could get before I started chopping the top on my car. I got a 2 pound spool of 20 Gauge from the local AirGas store, and I can tell you it's a lot easier to use. I have welded my whole top back on with almost 0 blow through on 70 year old sheet metal, and didn't even use half the spool. It makes nice pretty round spot welds. It is easy to clean the welds using only a wire brush. It holds up under my torture tests of banging the crap out of a test piece on my workbench, but yet it grinds down smooth like butter.

Just get some!

-Shane

www.RustToRod.com
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Old 09-23-2004, 08:58 PM
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Good to hear Rustorod..

That's why I wanted it! A newby to welding needs every insurance policy he can get..I got my spool a couple of days ago..Won't use it until the weekend..Been tearing out my steps on the 55 Chevy truck. Also experimented with Muggyweld. I'll report another time soon.

Thanks for the report..

Keith
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Old 09-24-2004, 01:42 PM
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20 Guage wire

I can reccomend this stuff from JW Harris..One does need to go to an industrial welding supply to get it and yes it can be had in the small spools for the 110 wire feeders..

I use an argon/co2 mix with it and run it in the same liner I use for my 0.23 solid wire...Got the liners from Lincoln welding..works fine..

it has a powdered metal core (flux) and does need the gas shielding to run correctly..

My local guys Central Welding supply

http://www.centralwelding.com/

carry it..They do have websites so they can be looked up..

I think they may mail you some if you call and make arrangements with them..

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Old 09-24-2004, 06:03 PM
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$25.00 to $26.00 is the going price for a 10 lb. spool
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Old 09-26-2004, 12:35 PM
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Just wanted to make a small correction to my original post. The two smaller sizes I mentioned are apparently not available after all. I was going by what the salesman told me at the time but I have not been able to find anyone else that has even heard of it. But after using the .030 for a while I really don't see any reason for anything smaller. What amazes me most about this wire is the ridiculously low settings you can use and still get a good weld. I think that as more welders try it and discover what it will do then it will become easier to find. If you have not tried this wire yet then you owe it to yourself to get some as I really do think you will be impressed, especially if you are using a 110 volt machine.
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Old 09-26-2004, 05:53 PM
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I tried mine today..Still got burn throughs. I'm sure it's my lack of experience not the product but I'd like ask what factor most influences burn through?

I've been thinking the amperage setting. I have a Lincoln handy mig with 4 presets. I used the lowest setting.

But..how does wire speed and hand speed contribute to burn through? I also suspect any space between butt joints contributes to burn through. Also possibly I'm not getting into enough "good metal" ie not cutting out enough old metal.


Don't get me wrong..I know you have to spend time practicing to get good.

Thanks,

Keith

Last edited by Slickriffs; 09-26-2004 at 06:21 PM.
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Old 09-26-2004, 06:44 PM
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Co-ordination

takes some co-ordination to get it right..I have found it best to weld on a piece of scrap to get my settings right and get my hand back so to speak..

Too slow a speed will contribute to burn through..if the wire speed is too fast then the wire will not burn fast enough and you will get what I call ropy..ropy looks like a piece of rope laid on the metal..no penetration..

Too hot will burn through as well..the idea is to get just the "right amount" of heat to get a good weld..

the machine settings get you in the ball park so to speak then it is practice form there..

Try just laying down a spot as if you stay in one place too long it will burn through on thin metal sections..could it be that your metal is corroded down to a very thin section..?? Have seen that..Had to spot the material and let it cool then spot it some more till I had a complete weld..

Just some ideas for you to chew on..
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2004, 08:14 AM
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Thanks OMT..

Next time I weld I plan to try the following:

Cut larger repair panels to be sure I'm into some good weldable metal

turn up the amperage. It seems I keep going back to fix pin holes-and that fill/grind routine is the beginging of my burn thru problem. With more amperage I should get better penetration.
I'll just have to move faster.

I also need to get some copper for backing up holes durring filling.

Thanks,

Keith
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Old 09-28-2004, 11:43 AM
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Pin Holes

In these old cars i have found trying to weld up pinholes is difficult at best..Try and concentrate on getting a good structural weld and then they do make bondo and high build primers for the purpose of filling minor pinholes and such..

I know we do not like bondo but then there is a time and place and if you have done a good job with a minimum of warpage..worked over the HAZ area with a slap hammer and dolly it should just be a thin wipe of bondo to make it smooth..

Por15 and others make some high build primers that are a great benefit in getting a nice job..

One thing you may try is to get a 10 or 12 inch mill bastard file..bend the tang about 90- degrees to the file and put a handle on it to dress the welds..Power grinders can be way too fast and thin the metal excessiviely..unless you have the very lite touch..

I do admit to using a power grinder my self but then I have just plain worn out several of them in the last 50 years..

Big part of doing this stuff is developing technique that works for you in your shop..

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Old 09-29-2004, 02:19 PM
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read your box on this stuff

Up until a few months ago I was working for a sheetmetal fabrication outfit and our supplier brought a roll of this stuff over to the shop foreman. After our safety director checked out the MSDS sheet and visited with the division director, they decided that the hazards of this product out weighed its performace for their application (HVAC). I meant to try to latch on to it before I left but guess I was anxious... You might want to consider an appropriate respirator if you're using this stuff very much. That is if that 'cancer' word scares you at all.
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