Newb body prep questions - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2005, 04:15 PM
trenchdog73's Avatar
J Smith
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: chicago
Age: 30
Posts: 65
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Newb body prep questions

Well I will soon start the process of stripping and prepping my 73 Nova hatch back. I have been doing some reading and I still have some questions. The first thing is due to some peeling I have noticed that my novas black paint job is over its original orange. Is it best to sand to bare metal or rough up the original paint and use that as a base for the primer? What is the best grit to use in the initial sanding process. What is a good sandable primer to use? What is the best way to remove the trim on my car (front/back windshield, hood lip, badges and around the headlights)? I have also been looking at compressors and recs on which to get would be great. Thats about all the questions I have for now but there will probly be more later, any other tips or suggestion you have would be great to hear.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2005, 05:29 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Cool car. Hopefully I will have a nova someday. Since your car has the original paint plus black over that and it is peeling you would be best to strip it down to metal. It would be a waste of money putting some nice expensive paint over the old paint which has the potential to fail and ruin the new stuff you put on top. Plus you will be able to see what you are truely dealing with when you take it down to metal.Everyone has their own favorite products. I personally put epoxy primer down on metal then use a 2k urethane filler primer over that for block sanding and fill. When choosing a compressor you have to consider any tools you plan to use and match their cfm requirements to the compressor you buy. For painting get the largest you can afford with a large tank to hold air. I have a 7.5 devilbiss with 80 gallon tank. Some air tools and hvlp guns really require a lot of air. You are probably talking a 220 volt dual stage compressor to keep it from recharging all the time. Another purchase for painting should be a water trap located 25' or more of line away from the compressor. For stripping paint I start with 36 grit on a 8" orbital and go over that with 80 grit on a 6" da. Anything I can't get by sanding, I either sandblast or use chemical stripper.
Good luck. Be ready to spend some cash because paint and the tools needed are expensive.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2005, 07:56 PM
rrmccabe's Avatar
GM Muscle
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 52
Posts: 518
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Kenseth17 had some good comments even though he must be a Roush fan

I agree materials are way too expensive to put on top of "unknowns". So unless you know what paint a car has now, dont add material on top of it. You said original paint or mostly original. Make it go away

Couple things I would recommend for someone new. First spray everything like you mean it including primer. Dont throw it on which you can get away with since it sands out anyway. Follow the instructions, use the right size fluid tip, right mix, air pressure, etc. What I am saying is dont be unfamiliar with the paint gun (or the way it is supposed to work) when it comes time to paint.

I know a lot of guys that have built some nice cars and the prep worked looked great. but they did more sanding than needed getting there. They loaded the primer on, let it cure and then sanded (repeat again, again, again). But when it came time to paint they were still using their bad primer habits.

Another thing I would say is guidecoat everything. Its a great learning tool to see what a sanding block does when you sand. You would be surprised the damage you can do with the edge of a block. So even if you dont "need to", guidecoat it from the beginning and learn from watching the results.

As far as whats a good primer?? Well decide on your paint up front. You should use the same brand from starting primer to sealer to paint.

Dont get in a hurry. Huge problems come from trapping solvents and resins. Allow proper flash times between coats. Let the solvents evaporate out of your primer. Make sure it dries out before final sand and seal.

With the compressor. The bigger the better within reason. If you buy just enough compressor it will run nonstop. Not only is it annoying, but a hot compressor makes more condensate. Nothing like spraying water with your air.

I am not a professional (by a long shot) but have had some outstanding results from hands on "failures". This forum is great and there are several really really sharp guys on here. Search/read and ask questions if you cant find the results.

Rich
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2005, 07:22 AM
Beenaway2long's Avatar
or Jeff, or Doc, or...
 

Last journal entry: Results of the Camaro
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Syracuse, NY-well, just North
Age: 51
Posts: 988
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
There can't be enough emphasis on stay with the same brand of paint all the way through. I have PPG shops close to me, and thats what I used. EVEN IN THE SAME LINE, there may not be compatable finishes. ESPECIALLY PPG !
My recommendation, is to pick the color you want FIRST!, then backstep to your sealer, build primer, and then epoxy primer. READ EVERY TECH SHEET FOR EACH PRODUCT!! Don't rely on the jobber to hand you the right stuff. I was at a Dupont Hot Hues Seminar this past weekend. Their system looked MUCH easier. Barry K's system (Southern Polyurethanes) looked easier as well! And you can ask him millions of questions (Try to research first, though!). He's a regular contributor.

Take it down to bare metal. You'd be amazed at the hackjobs the poor car has seen through its life. Do it right the first time. Ebay has some deals on 3M "Painters" kits, "Bodymans" kits etc. Its just the abrasives, and stuff you need to get started. They have quite a bit of stuff, like $200.00 worth for $50+/-. Look around. Add your D/A and compressor and your doing it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2005, 12:24 PM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Being in or around a big city like you are should give you the opportunity to have several paint jobbers to choose from.

The BEST advice I have is to visit as many of these suppliers you can and find the MOST knowledgeable one to buy from. Mine happens to be a Dupont jobber and after I got to know the paint man I get the big shop discount and the benefit of his advice which has been invaluable. THANKS TIM!!!
A good counter person can be your BEST allie in the paint wars and believe me, it IS a war some days and having someone to answer your most basic questions is worth more than money.
The other thing is while your instore buying, several customers will come thru and most are more than helpful with questions you have. Some are hacks and some are great, You'll have to "weed" thru some to get the right answer occasionally but I've learned almost as much from them as anywhere.Just standing and LISTENING will benefit you.

AND,

HERE of course!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2005, 10:47 AM
trenchdog73's Avatar
J Smith
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: chicago
Age: 30
Posts: 65
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for all the good info guys :0) dont be afraid to keep it coming.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"Basics of Basics" Sectioning a Body MARTINSR Body - Exterior 7 11-24-2008 12:04 PM
Body Caulking with nice finish. rrmccabe Body - Exterior 7 07-19-2005 08:46 PM
Jeep 2.5L throttle body to 4L throttle body. Parisienne66 Engine 2 07-10-2005 08:35 PM
Body Lift Questions 79Camaro74Vega Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 04-07-2005 12:30 PM
A Body mini tub question wally8 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 08-11-2004 05:09 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:16 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.