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Old 02-15-2006, 11:50 AM
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NewB Q about painting engine bay.

I am not your typical hot rodder on this site, I drive an import. Never the less it is an import that can hold its own. I have been browsing here since before I even had a car. The car is a 1996 Eclipse GS-Turbo. It is currently white and I want to get it painted black. No I am talking door jams and everything else.

My problem is I dont want to pull the engine to paint the engine bay black, and will not stand for it being left white. Anyoen way to not haveto pull the engine???
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Old 02-15-2006, 01:53 PM
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Don't feel bad about owning an import as long as you don't put a 15' wing and then claim it will take a yenko camaro(2fast 2furious) that's just ignorant and it turns you from and import driver to a ricer. A friend of mine has the exact same car except it's green, and he beat my buddies AMC javelin 390 SST.Both cars being stock, but the amc owner claims his carb is junk which it very well may be.


Anyways painting the engine bay with the engine in may be harder and take longer then just pulling the engine and painting, but the choice is yours. If you want the paint to stick your going to have to power wash, and then scotch-brite or sand the area your painting, trust me i'm a relatively experienced body prep. Scotch-briting would be easier than sanding, scotch brite is a 3m product. Now that its cleaned and scotch-brited it's time to lay primer, but wait you now have about 3 hours of taping to do, if you don't want paint on it tape it. How you do the rest is up to you.
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Old 02-15-2006, 01:58 PM
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If you can take the front clip off and paint the fenderwells off the car, then it's only painting the firewall with the engine all taped up.

As stroker_SS said, you will need to scotch-brite or sand scuff the original paint.
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Old 02-16-2006, 08:22 AM
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As mentioned, power wash it first, then clean! Scotch Brite is the same as those green kitchen scrubbies. Go to the local dollar store and buy a bag -- the generic types work as good as the real thing, and you don't feel so bad about going through a few and tossing them. While you're there get a spray bottle of degreaser. Brand doesn't matter, but something like "mean green" or "purple power" works. As long as the bottle says "degreaser" it should be fine. It's cheap because the company doesn't spend $$$ on advertising. Often it's the same stuff as the $3-$5 bottles in the grocery store, just a different label and the company on the label doesn't make as much.

Buy a couple cans of oven cleaner (while at dollar store!). Spray that on before driving over to the pressure washer -- the engine heat will help! Just remember it may pull paint off some things. Not a problem where you're planning on painting anyway. If the paint is good it shouldn't remove it, but if it's thin or not sticking the best it can. I've only had a problem with it lifting engine paint or parts that have had a lot of heat on them or oil.

Remove everything you can from the engine compartment. Relays on the fenders and such, as long as they simply plug in the harness. Remove the whole rack that holds the relays, of course. Everything you can easily pull out -- air filter box and hose, etc., remove. THEN use the spray degreaser and scrubbies.

After that, and before paint, wipe everything down with paint prep. The auto body supply will have a specific solution, but reducer will be fine. If you have a spary fun that's the best way to go, but if everything is cleaned and prepped good a spray bomb will work. Multiple thin coats! Once you think you're done, spray one more coat on. The paint will be rather thin, but should last under the hood since it's not exposed to sunlight or the elements much. The engine heat won't affect it.
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