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-   -   newbie here building a 327 looking for atleast 400 hp. (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/newbie-here-building-327-looking-atleast-400-hp-223359.html)

rock_dog 08-25-2012 08:05 PM

newbie here building a 327 looking for atleast 400 hp.
 
Here is what I have, all of this is going in to a 1970 nova.
Looking to get between 400 and 450 hp if possible.

1968 327 gm block
set of 462 double humps (only an hour run time since being checked and rebuilt at the machine shop.)
327 has the steel forged crank in it.

What else do I need, I am open to suggestions

What piston and cam combos do yall think. As always money is a factor as any family man knows!



Im completely new to this engine building so please talk in simple terms. :D

This is the beginning of a weekend strip toy so not worried about trying to keep it street friendly.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get.

s10mikey 08-25-2012 08:19 PM

when talking about hp you need have a idea of what your goin to do with it,,, st strip straight race,, there is all kinds of way,s to plant hp, all depends on your app,,

rock_dog 08-25-2012 08:23 PM

My plans are drag strip.

s10mikey 08-25-2012 08:24 PM

400 hp built good crank, rods piston,s flat top,s,, forged still h beam rod,s for added strenght but your have a good start if you have a steal crank and good heads,, you just half to know wheather you want top end power or bottom end torque,,

rock_dog 08-25-2012 08:29 PM

I would rather have the torque off the line i really think, I know I dont have the funds for both. lol.
What would you perfer in a drag car?

rock_dog 08-25-2012 08:38 PM

another newbie question
 
1 Attachment(s)
What kind of pistons are these considered?

toddalin 08-25-2012 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rock_dog (Post 1585949)
Looking to get between 400 and 450 hp if possible.
set of 462 double humps (only an hour run time since being checked and rebuilt at the machine shop.)

Thanks in advance for any help I can get.

Checked and rebuilt will not get you there with those heads. They will need, at the least, pocket porting and a good 3-angle valve job.

Here's my combination and dyno sheet so you can see what it's going to take, cause I ain't there and this is a very healthy and streetable engine.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...0Dyno_Pull.jpg

331 CI, pump-friendly 9.5:1 CR
K&N 14"x4" air filter, Corvette drop base and lid
Holley 600 dp, choke horn milled and blended, Primary - 69, Secondary – 74, Squirters - 21
1/2" Aluminum open spacer port matched to manifold, exterior polished
Edelbrock Performer RPM, port matched, exterior polished with all extraneous castings and lettering removed
Homemade lifter valley splash shield to keep hot oil off manifold bottom
Camel hump 1.94/1.50 heads hogged out to 2.02/1.60, pocket ported, port matched, pump-friendly hardened seats, 3-angle valve job
Cylinder bores clearanced to unshroud the valves
Comp Cams 1.52:1 roller-tip rockers
Crane Cam Vintage Muscle 327/350 hp cam, 222 degrees @ 0.05, 0.447" lift (with 1.50 rockers)
Doug Thorley headers, dechromed and ceramic-coated
2.5" mandral-bent exhaust (including tips), 2" cross-over just before rear axle
DynoMax stainless Ultra Flow mufflers
Millerspeed 1-1/2” Gilmer under drive belt drive system
Mallory Hyfire IV CD ignition box triggered off Accel points
Mallory high voltage chrome coil
Mallory spiral-wound coil wire
Mallory solid copper plug wires, ends soldered to wires
Champion plugs
37 degrees total ignition advance
Carter high volume fuel pump
Melling high volume oil pump
Open breathers
Polished aluminum high flow water pump
160-degree thermostat
Flex fan with polished aluminum spacer
Polished aluminum one-wire 100 amp alternator
Header Power Bracket
Keisler TKO600 5-Speed
Hurst shifter
3.70:1 positraction
225/60/15 Firestone Firehawk SZ50s on 7”-wide Western 30-spoke Turbine Wheels

rock_dog 08-25-2012 08:56 PM

Thanks for the info guys! I really appreciate it.

vinniekq2 08-26-2012 08:58 AM

toddalin that engine is making 400 engine hp.the chasis dyno measures rwhp after accessories and driveline take up their share and exhaust too.

rock_dog a 327 does not really make big torque numbers,rev the little engine a bit higher and use a little more rear gear for the torque multiplier in the lower gears.A stock bottom end of a 327 can rev 6500 rpm and last with a good balance.I prefer a solid lifter cam especially for 327s

rock_dog 08-26-2012 09:10 AM

thanks
 
What type of cam do yall think, Ive read on the 327 its better to stay around a 218-224 cam instead of going big, They said it makes it a high reving engine and makes better hp than going big on the cam, any truth to this?

And on the pic i posted above, what kind of pistons are those considered?

vinniekq2 08-26-2012 09:29 AM

copy toddalins build,upgrade carb to 650dp and add 10 degrees of duration to cam and 35 to 50 thou more lift.The duration will give you 700 more rpms which would give you another 30 hp and similar torque.I would say,use a solid lifter cam.

rock_dog 08-26-2012 09:35 AM

pistons
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by toddalin (Post 1585963)
Checked and rebuilt will not get you there with those heads. They will need, at the least, pocket porting and a good 3-angle valve job.

Here's my combination and dyno sheet so you can see what it's going to take, cause I ain't there and this is a very healthy and streetable engine.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...0Dyno_Pull.jpg

331 CI, pump-friendly 9.5:1 CR
K&N 14"x4" air filter, Corvette drop base and lid
Holley 600 dp, choke horn milled and blended, Primary - 69, Secondary 74, Squirters - 21
1/2" Aluminum open spacer port matched to manifold, exterior polished
Edelbrock Performer RPM, port matched, exterior polished with all extraneous castings and lettering removed
Homemade lifter valley splash shield to keep hot oil off manifold bottom
Camel hump 1.94/1.50 heads hogged out to 2.02/1.60, pocket ported, port matched, pump-friendly hardened seats, 3-angle valve job
Cylinder bores clearanced to unshroud the valves
Comp Cams 1.52:1 roller-tip rockers
Crane Cam Vintage Muscle 327/350 hp cam, 222 degrees @ 0.05, 0.447" lift (with 1.50 rockers)
Doug Thorley headers, dechromed and ceramic-coated
2.5" mandral-bent exhaust (including tips), 2" cross-over just before rear axle
DynoMax stainless Ultra Flow mufflers
Millerspeed 1-1/2 Gilmer under drive belt drive system
Mallory Hyfire IV CD ignition box triggered off Accel points
Mallory high voltage chrome coil
Mallory spiral-wound coil wire
Mallory solid copper plug wires, ends soldered to wires
Champion plugs
37 degrees total ignition advance
Carter high volume fuel pump
Melling high volume oil pump
Open breathers
Polished aluminum high flow water pump
160-degree thermostat
Flex fan with polished aluminum spacer
Polished aluminum one-wire 100 amp alternator
Header Power Bracket
Keisler TKO600 5-Speed
Hurst shifter
3.70:1 positraction
225/60/15 Firestone Firehawk SZ50s on 7-wide Western 30-spoke Turbine Wheels


I didnt see what pistons you used?

vinniekq2 08-26-2012 09:51 AM

read the first line of his build sheet.

toddalin 08-26-2012 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinniekq2 (Post 1586041)
toddalin that engine is making 400 engine hp.the chasis dyno measures rwhp after accessories and driveline take up their share and exhaust too.

rock_dog a 327 does not really make big torque numbers,rev the little engine a bit higher and use a little more rear gear for the torque multiplier in the lower gears.A stock bottom end of a 327 can rev 6500 rpm and last with a good balance.I prefer a solid lifter cam especially for 327s

I'm more of a realistic. I think it is probably more like 360-375 hp at the crank. I have very little parasitic loss compared to most, only running an alternator and water pump on one belt.

The dyno pull was before the addition of the Millerspeed underdrive system and Car Craft found 10 hp with the Millerspeed a 5,500 RPM. Also we did a bit more intake porting and carb tuning (at 12.8-12.9 A/F, it was a bit rich on the dyno), and I went 1 jet leaner on the secondaries. The RWHP, should now be a bit over 300.

Yes, he will need a solid lifter or maybe hydraulic roller cam to get there.

I was also able to get rid of the bog spots (~2,200-2,500) by reducing the squirters from 25F/28R to 21F/21R. Because I run a TKO600, these bog spots were just above my 5th-gear cruise RPM (~2,200) and getting rid of them was a real blessing when you get on it in 5th on the freeway.

BTW, I would be suprised if a stock 650 dp outflows this modified 600. But without modification, the 650 is probably a good choice.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...0CARB_MODS.jpg

vinniekq2 08-26-2012 12:44 PM

what,
toddalin said,,,and a dynojet dyno usually reads lower than a mustang chasis dyno. 12.8-12.9 af is great for the street.It would make more power with open exhaust and a little richer. so lets say your engine is 400 ish hp. for sure a good guideline to build 400 hp. My favourite carb for small v-8s like 327s is a 4777 with 4781 base plate and a few tweek
s like replaceable air bleeds and minor contouring etc.

Its a great share offering your parts list and actual dyno figures.


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