newbie here building a 327 looking for atleast 400 hp.
Here is what I have, all of this is going in to a 1970 nova.
Looking to get between 400 and 450 hp if possible.
1968 327 gm block
set of 462 double humps (only an hour run time since being checked and rebuilt at the machine shop.)
327 has the steel forged crank in it.
What else do I need, I am open to suggestions
What piston and cam combos do yall think. As always money is a factor as any family man knows!
Im completely new to this engine building so please talk in simple terms. :D
This is the beginning of a weekend strip toy so not worried about trying to keep it street friendly.
Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
when talking about hp you need have a idea of what your goin to do with it,,, st strip straight race,, there is all kinds of way,s to plant hp, all depends on your app,,
My plans are drag strip.
400 hp built good crank, rods piston,s flat top,s,, forged still h beam rod,s for added strenght but your have a good start if you have a steal crank and good heads,, you just half to know wheather you want top end power or bottom end torque,,
I would rather have the torque off the line i really think, I know I dont have the funds for both. lol.
What would you perfer in a drag car?
another newbie question
What kind of pistons are these considered?
Here's my combination and dyno sheet so you can see what it's going to take, cause I ain't there and this is a very healthy and streetable engine.
331 CI, pump-friendly 9.5:1 CR
K&N 14"x4" air filter, Corvette drop base and lid
Holley 600 dp, choke horn milled and blended, Primary - 69, Secondary – 74, Squirters - 21
1/2" Aluminum open spacer port matched to manifold, exterior polished
Edelbrock Performer RPM, port matched, exterior polished with all extraneous castings and lettering removed
Homemade lifter valley splash shield to keep hot oil off manifold bottom
Camel hump 1.94/1.50 heads hogged out to 2.02/1.60, pocket ported, port matched, pump-friendly hardened seats, 3-angle valve job
Cylinder bores clearanced to unshroud the valves
Comp Cams 1.52:1 roller-tip rockers
Crane Cam Vintage Muscle 327/350 hp cam, 222 degrees @ 0.05, 0.447" lift (with 1.50 rockers)
Doug Thorley headers, dechromed and ceramic-coated
2.5" mandral-bent exhaust (including tips), 2" cross-over just before rear axle
DynoMax stainless Ultra Flow mufflers
Millerspeed 1-1/2” Gilmer under drive belt drive system
Mallory Hyfire IV CD ignition box triggered off Accel points
Mallory high voltage chrome coil
Mallory spiral-wound coil wire
Mallory solid copper plug wires, ends soldered to wires
37 degrees total ignition advance
Carter high volume fuel pump
Melling high volume oil pump
Polished aluminum high flow water pump
Flex fan with polished aluminum spacer
Polished aluminum one-wire 100 amp alternator
Header Power Bracket
Keisler TKO600 5-Speed
225/60/15 Firestone Firehawk SZ50s on 7”-wide Western 30-spoke Turbine Wheels
Thanks for the info guys! I really appreciate it.
toddalin that engine is making 400 engine hp.the chasis dyno measures rwhp after accessories and driveline take up their share and exhaust too.
rock_dog a 327 does not really make big torque numbers,rev the little engine a bit higher and use a little more rear gear for the torque multiplier in the lower gears.A stock bottom end of a 327 can rev 6500 rpm and last with a good balance.I prefer a solid lifter cam especially for 327s
What type of cam do yall think, Ive read on the 327 its better to stay around a 218-224 cam instead of going big, They said it makes it a high reving engine and makes better hp than going big on the cam, any truth to this?
And on the pic i posted above, what kind of pistons are those considered?
copy toddalins build,upgrade carb to 650dp and add 10 degrees of duration to cam and 35 to 50 thou more lift.The duration will give you 700 more rpms which would give you another 30 hp and similar torque.I would say,use a solid lifter cam.
I didnt see what pistons you used?
read the first line of his build sheet.
The dyno pull was before the addition of the Millerspeed underdrive system and Car Craft found 10 hp with the Millerspeed a 5,500 RPM. Also we did a bit more intake porting and carb tuning (at 12.8-12.9 A/F, it was a bit rich on the dyno), and I went 1 jet leaner on the secondaries. The RWHP, should now be a bit over 300.
Yes, he will need a solid lifter or maybe hydraulic roller cam to get there.
I was also able to get rid of the bog spots (~2,200-2,500) by reducing the squirters from 25F/28R to 21F/21R. Because I run a TKO600, these bog spots were just above my 5th-gear cruise RPM (~2,200) and getting rid of them was a real blessing when you get on it in 5th on the freeway.
BTW, I would be suprised if a stock 650 dp outflows this modified 600. But without modification, the 650 is probably a good choice.
toddalin said,,,and a dynojet dyno usually reads lower than a mustang chasis dyno. 12.8-12.9 af is great for the street.It would make more power with open exhaust and a little richer. so lets say your engine is 400 ish hp. for sure a good guideline to build 400 hp. My favourite carb for small v-8s like 327s is a 4777 with 4781 base plate and a few tweek
s like replaceable air bleeds and minor contouring etc.
Its a great share offering your parts list and actual dyno figures.
|All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:14 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.