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Old 06-23-2013, 07:40 AM
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Newbie here need advice on possible buy

Hey guys. Newbie here. I have a chance to buy a 47 ford truck. I have only looked at it so far I have not driven it or got an extensive walk around. I called the owner and he told me some basics. It's a 47 original body and stuff ford 47. Has no bed. Has a ten gallon fuel cell in the bed area protected by a wood frame. The cad looks like its in decent shape and interior looks redone. He says it has a 283 chevy in it but not sure on the miles. Also the gauge cluster does not work. He has his own gauges for the new engine such as temp and pressure. No speedo or odometer. Also it's an auto. Needs new glass most has cracks in it That's all I know for now. He's asking 3500. I'm wondering if its worth even going forth with it? My wife's step father is a hot rod guy but he's not the most approachable. I was Gona have him come out and look at it to but was seing opinions if its worth me wasting his drive time and my time. Or if it drives good or not. Thanks.

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Old 06-23-2013, 08:23 AM
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price = location=condition.

In some areas you get a lot of rust and body cancer, price goes down, location, how many people are interested in the type of car-truck. I was at Rexburg Idaho yesterday to the Chevy dealer sponsored car show . Free and Free hot dogs, chips and pop if you waited in line 15 minutes, In this area, because of the cold winter most guys are restoring, updating older muscle cars, 250 cars, only 2 32 roadsters and 2 T buckets, Years ago I used to get cars and parts haul to California and make money. there are what I consider good buys listed every once in a while on KSL classified and East Idaho craigs list. I was late to a swap meet a couple weeks ago and A 51 Nash bathtub 4 door , body very straight, bad engine and some floor cancer sold for $ 200. I have too many projects but I said I could have put in a SBC got it running for under a grand.

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Old 06-23-2013, 08:36 AM
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It really does depend on the condition of the cab and clip, since there is no original bed, and history of the engine condition. Still sounds a tad high for no bed and an outdated engine. Most transplants now have a 350. Nothing wrong with a good 283 but is the auto trans a powerglide or TH 350 ??

As always, good pics are a big help on determining value.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:15 AM
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Another thing to consider when trying to come up with a reasonable purchase price is the future plans/expectations of the vehicle. If you are wanting to do an original style restoration, it sounds like this would take a LOT of money and time to have that kind of outcome. If you are planning on a rat rod, may not be too expensive to get a that result from it, see where I'm heading with this train of thought? If you know your plans and have a budget in mind then that is a good starting point. With that being said, if you don't know much about cars in general, I highly recommend that you take someone that has knowledge with you and get their opinion. It is hard to place a value on something you can't crawl under and over to check out. Welcome to the forum and good luck.

Kelly
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:40 AM
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Thanks ill prob just take my wife's step father who's a hot rodder. I really just was a cool cruising truck I've wanted one for a while. Haha and not a lot show up around MA. Really I'd just paint it hit rod black maybe some pin striping. Not really interested in a full resto or anything so maybe a rad rod
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:42 AM
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:56 AM
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From one pic, it looks OK. Seems a clear coat is peeling. If it checks out mechanically and little rust repair, it looks like a decent start. I would still chisel on the price though. Anything you save can be used to make it better. A correct box would be a big help with appearance. A step side truck is cool...
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:10 AM
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I'm checking it out tonight with the seller. And if I think it's sound I'm going to have my wife's father in law check it out who's a mechanic and has a bad *** hot rod. So I don't waste his time driving out to me if it doesn't suite me. I'm horrible with getting price down haha. Not good at that. One question how hard is the class to replace? I've seen complete glass going for around 209 on eBay.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:17 AM
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Check the floors, rocker panels and door bottoms for rust. Actually, rust in general. I'd be going over it w/a "bondo detector" to look for body work/rust repair. There are even digital models, but a magnet and a card to keep from marring the finish can- in the right hands- tell you what you need to know.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cluster F View Post
I'm checking it out tonight with the seller. And if I think it's sound I'm going to have my wife's father in law check it out who's a mechanic and has a bad *** hot rod. So I don't waste his time driving out to me if it doesn't suite me. I'm horrible with getting price down haha. Not good at that. One question how hard is the class to replace? I've seen complete glass going for around 209 on eBay.

Replacing glass is a sequence. The front and rear are held in a rubber gasket that is most likely junk. New gaskets are in order. The side glass is held tight by "run channel felts". By the looks of the pic, they will need to be replaced as well. I also don't see a vent window. Is it converted to one piece door glass or are the vent assemblies missing/junk ??

Be very careful buying glass on ebay. Most aftermarket glass is thinner than original and doesn't fit all that well. Check with reputable restoration parts places on-line for their price and quality first. Call them if you haqve questions. Most are willing to spend time with a novice and dispense advise, however, "their" product will be better than anyone else's... Take it with a grain of salt. Installing the glass is an exercise in patience and caution but it can be done by a novice.

I would estimate the cost of quality glass and all sealing, channel parts to be closer to $500. Sequences add up fast on a restoration...
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