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Old 06-21-2012, 05:20 PM
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Newbie Post About Body Work

Hey guys,
I am working on a budget, and I got all my materials at a local paint supply house for $720 with tax. I watched a few videos on how to do filler and sand, but I am still a tad bit unclear on a few things.....

1) some guys lay 3 base coats before the clear and they sand in between each one. IS this really necessary? Some guys say no, you need to sand and respray affected areas before going to clear.
2) I'll probably end up putting 3-5 coats of clear. (do you have to sand in between each coat of clear? (some guys say no, all can be perfected in last coat.)
3)To bring the car down to bare metal with the DA (there is filler and several layers of paint) what grit should I use, 80 coarse?
4) Do you sand in between layers of primer? (again some guys say no only last coat, some say yes.
5)When said the filler and feather edge the layers with a DA what grit should you use, again 80 coarse?
6) When you block the car at any stage before paint, filler and primer what grit do you use? again 80 grit coarse?
7)When you wet sand the clear what grit should you use? 1500 fine and 2000 fine; make a couple of passes on a block? I know this kind of depends on what is stuck inside the clear.
8) I am putting the shelby side scoops on. They are made from fiberglass. I am familiar with the old school rivet and glass method. The gentleman at the paint store suggested using a compound that DuraMix makes (I forgot the name). This epoxy is made for specifically bonding fiberglass to metal. When is a good time to do this? The fiberglass scoops will be an ENTIRELY DIFFERENT COLOR THAN THE CAR. I would imagine that I would get the car FILLED, and BEFORE PRIMER use this epoxy stuff to attache the scoop, then primer it all in one shot, then mask off the scoop, paint the car, then BEFORE CLEAR, mask off a wide area of the car around the scoop and paint the scoop its color, then clear the car in one shot?
9) Since fiberglass is a bit different than steel and heats up easier with sand paper... when sanding the primer do I use the same grit as the rest of the car? I also have a fiberglass hood and deck lid.
10) When wet sanding the primer and clear, should I just use water or do I need to add a special lubricant to the water?
11) When welding with the MIG.... What gas and size wire do I use, also considering floor pans and body panels are different sizes?
12) the passenger floor pan was cut out and the frame rail's spot welds were knocked out, instead of spot welding all 16 spot welds back, cna I just MIG around the rail to the floor pain after it is installed?

I know this is a very long winded thread, but thank-you guys. I am sure that I am capable of doing this stuff. Before I start doing anything to the car, I am starting small with my fenders while they are off the car, just to get that nervous feeling out.

-Louie

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Old 06-21-2012, 06:09 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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1. NO, you read the tech sheet with the paint you have bought. Many have strict warnings NOT to sand it.

2. Again, NO follow the tech sheet. Typically you apply two coats and that is all there is to it. But if you want to apply more for cutting and buffing you apply 3 coats. If you want to so a "flow coat" you apply the two or three then sand it flat then apply another couple of coats.

3. Typically you cut it down with 36 or 40 to get the majority off then switch to 80, then to 120 or even 180.

4. No, not typically, you apply enough to build up a layer to block and level, sort of like a thin coat of body filler ("bondo") In fact there is a polyester primer out there (many brands) that is literally like spraying "Bondo".

5. Feather edging is typically done with 120 or 180. But if you are going to be stripping, you won't have any paint to feather edge.

6. 120 or 180 that is if you are using a urethane primer.

7. Cutting clear for buffing is done in stages, 1200, 1500, 2000 and maybe even 3000. Depending on how rough it is, you could start out with 1000.

8. I would be making the scoop a bolt on if I were you, if you plan on using another color. But you could bond it on and work around it then masking as you are thinking painting it another color after the car is painted.

9. Yep, the primer "doesn't know" what it is applied over, metal, fiberglass or anything else. You are sanding the primer, not the substrate material.

10. Just water, spotlessly clean water in a spotlessly clean bucket.

11. .023 wire is the best all around for sheetmetal. 75/25 Argon/CO2 is your gas.

12. You plug weld the floor to the rails.

Every question you have asked could require much more info to get a good grasp, but this is a good start.

Brian
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Old 06-22-2012, 02:06 AM
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Brian,

Thank-you so much for your help. I printed your post out to use as a guide with my other research material. I am thinking of getting a sacrifice set of these side vent louvers, bolting them into place and seeing exactly hoe much space between the louver and the scoop there is. I may use this epoxy, several steel plates, and some welds to build a boltable side scoop, I may not have them seamless, but, they will be very easily serviceable...

There are some other questions I thought of....

The scoops look like this:
[IMG]http://www.fibergl****pecialtiesnv.com/siteassets/images/parts/M-111R.jpg[/IMG]

Unfortunately when I bought them, they did not have the CLOSED version... I dont want the wind whistling through these things and possibly ruining the setup... whats the easiest way to close them up and still make them look good? Any ideas?

The biggest thing... Is I was thinking of doing some fender only stripes, like the old gran sport corvette


The MAIN BODY COLOR of the car is Corvette Artic 2012 WHITE, I was going to do these stripes in a PXR Chrysler Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl. Like the hood and Deck LID.... Im not sure how it would look buttoned up next to the hood, so.. this may not be for sure.... but if I was going to do it, do I lay down a base or two of the brilliant black of the whole fender and then mask off the areas I want for the stripes and then apply the coat of the artic white? How do I get them even leveled before I clear em, if you're not supposed to block base coats and this is kind of a one time shot? Another issue is, I am installing new front and rear lower vailences, while I sprung the extra $ for the FORD TOOLING ones, I am sure that they are not going to fit 100% and neither are the doors. What is the best way to try to level this stuff back up? I was under the impression that you don't want tons of filler just to fill a gap!

Thanks again!

Last edited by louietwoshoes; 06-22-2012 at 02:19 AM.
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