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Old 09-29-2009, 07:20 PM
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newly built 350 no power off the line

someone please help. unable to power brake tires. doggy off the line but opens up at 1700 rpms and pulls to 5500rpm.

I just built a 350 2 bolt. stock pistons with 2 valve reliefs. 76 cc 1.71 heads 224/224 .450/.460 camshaft. edelbrock rpm performer intake. 600cfm edelbrock carb. timing set at 18 degrees with vac. advanced unhooked. headers. 3.42 rear end gears. th350 trans stock conveter bolted into a 1971 impala 2 door.

Do I need a stall converter or need more compression to run the camshaft.

thanks Jesse

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Old 09-29-2009, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbodyfan
someone please help. unable to power brake tires. doggy off the line but opens up at 1700 rpms and pulls to 5500rpm.

I just built a 350 2 bolt. stock pistons with 2 valve reliefs. 76 cc 1.71 heads 224/224 .450/.460 camshaft. edelbrock rpm performer intake. 600cfm edelbrock carb. timing set at 18 degrees with vac. advanced unhooked. headers. 3.42 rear end gears. th350 trans stock conveter bolted into a 1971 impala 2 door.

Do I need a stall converter or need more compression to run the camshaft.

thanks Jesse
76cc heads with flat-tops in a 350 will put you right at 9.0:1 static compression ratio, too light for the cam you have used. A cam with about 204/214 would be about right. Or....you can use the cam you have now with a much looser converter (I might be thinkin' a 2500 stall unit) to get the motor past the slushy bottom part of the rpm range. However, dynamic compression ratio will still be low at the torque peak and the motor will not perform up to its potential.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:43 PM
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I have a set of 1965 58cc 1.94 valves camel humps. I want to put on but need to be rebuilt first. will these heads raise compression ratio to high for pump gas.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:44 PM
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Why do you have the vacuum advance unhooked? Power braking the tires is just a waste of rubber. What does it do when you take your foot off the brake and just mash it?
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sqzbox
Power braking the tires is just a waste of rubber.
Wassamatta sqzbox, you don't remember being a teenager?
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:41 PM
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ITS BEEN ABOUT 20 YEARS SINCE I FIRST DID A POWER BRAKE, AND I STILL DO EM TODAY!!! BUT I HAVE WISE'ND UP AND INVESTED IN A TIRE MACHINE!!!

VACUUM ADVANCE? WHATS THAT??????WITH A 2500 STALL, DO THEY MAKE WEIGHTS THAT ADVANCE TILL 4500 RPMS?
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:54 PM
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I would set the distributor up to add about 4-6 more advance at idle while keeping a 38-40 Total timing, and work on the Edelbrock carb. I have yet to see one very close out of the box for anything with a cam over 220 @ .050". You will need to change the accelerator pump shot and nozzle size to make it bigger volume and longer lasting, change the power piston springs to the next lighter versions, and then work with the metering rods and jets.

There is a lot to be tuned into this combo.

Was the cam degreed in when installed or not??

Then you can look into a stall converter around 2800 rpm and it will run pretty decent.
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:53 AM
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Almost forgot techinpector1. My dad told me the same thing back then, I didn't listen to him either. One thing though, tires were cheap back in the 60's. I found a little used 30W would make more smoke and the tires would last longer!!
Definition of edelbrok carburators: The first step on the way to buying a holley!

Last edited by sqzbox; 09-30-2009 at 04:56 AM. Reason: mor info
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:07 AM
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when I accelerate hard WOT from a stop its doggy like to much fuel but then seems to clear out and opens up. 1700 rpms or so. when rolling around the corner and keeping rpms up a little and accelerate hard I can spin the tires. I have attempted to change carbs several times. I even put on my brothers 750 double pumper holley and runs the same as the edelbrock 600. I don't think its a carb. problem. my next steps are either a stall converter or changing heads and raising compression. I don't have a timing light to set total timing. so I put it at about 18 degree with the vacum advanced should be around 38 degree total.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h0trod389
ITS BEEN ABOUT 20 YEARS SINCE I FIRST DID A POWER BRAKE, AND I STILL DO EM TODAY!!! BUT I HAVE WISE'ND UP AND INVESTED IN A TIRE MACHINE!!!

VACUUM ADVANCE? WHATS THAT??????WITH A 2500 STALL, DO THEY MAKE WEIGHTS THAT ADVANCE TILL 4500 RPMS?
Hey,all caps indicates that you are yelling or talk like Billy Mays
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbodyfan
when I accelerate hard WOT from a stop its doggy like to much fuel but then seems to clear out and opens up. 1700 rpms or so. when rolling around the corner and keeping rpms up a little and accelerate hard I can spin the tires. I have attempted to change carbs several times. I even put on my brothers 750 double pumper holley and runs the same as the edelbrock 600. I don't think its a carb. problem. my next steps are either a stall converter or changing heads and raising compression. I don't have a timing light to set total timing. so I put it at about 18 degree with the vacum advanced should be around 38 degree total.
You will never get it figured out without a timing light, you have no idea where it is right now. You could be 10+ off and you wouldn't know it. Get a timing tape for your balancer and find out where you are at for initial and total advance before you just start throwing big parts at it..
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:18 PM
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Already asked, but, Did you degree the cam in during installation? Cam could be installed retarded, if so, no amount of parts changing will make a difference.
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FmrStrtracer
Already asked, but, Did you degree the cam in during installation? Cam could be installed retarded, if so, no amount of parts changing will make a difference.
The cam in this motor does infact go in "retarded" by 1 degree.
The valve timing points of this cam are normally going to be -3 and 47 in
45 and -1

A cam with a 47deg ABDC intake closing point will have a very soggy low end
especialy with a low mechanical compression ratio.
after checking the actual installed cam timing, you could advanced the cam in this motor by 8deg
The new cam timing points would be 5 and 39 intake
53 and -9 exhaust
The intake valve will now close sooner @ 39deg ABDC by 8 degress resulting in stronger bottom end torque. A step in the right direction but...
This motor is still hurting for compression.

Adjusting the cam will help but this motor either needs a head swap to reaise the cr or a much smaller cam.

The cam you Have was origionally designed for a 11:1 compression ratio.
Even if you advance the cam by 8deg it will want a 9.5 to 10:1 cr.
Your cr is just way way too low.
You need to install some heads with very small 58ish combustion chambers
and larger valves and generous home porting, using very thin .015" shim style head gaskets, move the cam advanced by 8deg and install a 3000+ stall converter (3500stall is not too much) and 4.10's. It will be a whole different car.
This motor is a prime candidate for a "ported 305 head swap"

You only problem then would be keeping tread on the tires.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-30-2009 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:28 PM
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Thanks every one for the input. No I didn't degree the camshaft when installed just matched the dots. I plan on a head swap just no money left at this time. I got a set of camel humps that need to be rebuilt. thats another day though.
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Old 10-08-2009, 03:24 PM
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tank

weight,,, that is a heavy car... like everyone else says... cam..cam..cam... gears and a stall... or chop the roof off and take the doors off,,,lol..
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