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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-01-2009 07:31 PM
BIGWISEXY
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
The break-in instructions are for any and all flat tappet cams, hydraulic or solid. Cam choice I can't really help you, I never hot-rodded a 283( it's way too small ). If I was to choose, I'd look for something around 240- 250 dur. @ .050 and .500-.570" lift, 108-110 lobe seperation in a solid grind, and probably a straight pattern (intake and exhaust the same).
well i just got her running again,, clayed the heads to make sure they fit and they did. we started it up and boy does she sound like a beast. That damn cam make a hell of a lope. Time to fine tunner and get some miles on her so i can open it up.. Lay a john force burn out let everyone no who has the power,, that is until pops gets his back on the road. thanks for the help, once i get the truck washed and ready i will upload some pics.
02-24-2009 08:40 PM
ericnova72 The break-in instructions are for any and all flat tappet cams, hydraulic or solid. Cam choice I can't really help you, I never hot-rodded a 283( it's way too small ). If I was to choose, I'd look for something around 240- 250 dur. @ .050 and .500-.570" lift, 108-110 lobe seperation in a solid grind, and probably a straight pattern (intake and exhaust the same).
02-24-2009 08:26 PM
BIGWISEXY
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Should fit the 355 just fine, but it always depends on cam size and the size of the valve relief in the piston. ALWAYS CHECK IT! Pistons will be fine, but if the cam is a flat tappet hydraulic, you run a risk of flattening a lobe by only running it for a short time. You've got to fire it up, immediately get the rpm's above 2200 (IMMEDIATELY!!!, and 2500-3000 is better) and run it for at least 20 minutes like this to get the cam and lifters broken in. You can't just fire it up "to see what it sounds like" for a minute or two. Hopefully you already know that.
yea pops is pretty good about that, i believe he is running a 264 555 cam, but his is solid lift,, i should have got a solid lift,, i am thinking of swapping my cam out for something a little smaller and making it solid. what cam would you suggest, i want it to sound eratic still ( your instruction above are your suggestions for my cam right)
02-24-2009 08:12 PM
ericnova72 Should fit the 355 just fine, but it always depends on cam size and the size of the valve relief in the piston. ALWAYS CHECK IT! Pistons will be fine, but if the cam is a flat tappet hydraulic, you run a risk of flattening a lobe by only running it for a short time. You've got to fire it up, immediately get the rpm's above 2200 (IMMEDIATELY!!!, and 2500-3000 is better) and run it for at least 20 minutes like this to get the cam and lifters broken in. You can't just fire it up "to see what it sounds like" for a minute or two. Hopefully you already know that.
02-24-2009 07:47 PM
BIGWISEXY
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Ok, now we know that the 1.94" valve SHOULD clear, but do not take that for granted, clay it up and check it. You don't want to be fixing it yet again because you assumed it would clear, do you?
ok man, i am with you, i sank to much money in, to mess this puppy up, should them 202 camel humps fit on my pops 355? And that small worn spot on the forged piston should make no differance should it? we only had the motor running for a minute if less
02-24-2009 07:30 PM
ericnova72 Ok, now we know that the 1.94" valve SHOULD clear, but do not take that for granted, clay it up and check it. You don't want to be fixing it yet again because you assumed it would clear, do you?
02-24-2009 07:21 PM
BIGWISEXY
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
If the valves hit the pistons, you will still need to do a valve-to-piston clearance check. More than valve size determines if they will clash, the cam is by far the biggest factor, valve size is very little of it. Was the previous contact "flat-faced" into the valve pocket, or around the rim of the valve? You could have the same problem no matter what head you use, even with tiny 1.72" intake valves.
well on the piston the damage is at the relief valve, it round a little of the upper part of the relief off. not much at all, but it was on every intake valve on every piston
02-24-2009 07:01 PM
ericnova72 If the valves hit the pistons, you will still need to do a valve-to-piston clearance check. More than valve size determines if they will clash, the cam is by far the biggest factor, valve size is very little of it. Was the previous contact "flat-faced" into the valve pocket, or around the rim of the valve? You could have the same problem no matter what head you use, even with tiny 1.72" intake valves.
02-24-2009 06:52 PM
BIGWISEXY
Quote:
Originally Posted by GenYnNC
No worries man, I learn a lot about stuff when I screw it up, funny how failure teaches you so much. You can't blame a man for trying to do his best with what he's got and even I don't listen to good advice sometimes.

Sounds like you got a set of #041 castings with accesory holes? If so, this is a solid head and usually flows almost as good as the 2.02... maybe gives up a slight bit after .500 lift but all in all a good head. Maybe do some light touch up work below the intake valve and blend the bowl, if you are comfortable with that, if not don't. From my personal preference I woudld be all over some vortecs for your application but if dad's got the 300hp heads, then so be it.

The 1.94/1.50's will give you the clearance you are looking for, glad to hear nothing is horribly wrong from the previous experiment. As soon as you get'er up to 6,500, the 2.02's will be the last thing you ever think about again.

Best of luck
finally something i wanted to here. Dad has about 550 in those heads, they have been ported, milled, valve job the hole nine yards. He was running a even bigger cam than mine with them and they held up great. Now another question those camel hump heads with the 202 should fit fine on my dads 350 30 over shouldnt they. I will keep you posted with the progress. we have to take my other head of and take the hole top end off dads now, but in the long run i will be happier and dad will be happier about the bigger valves. thank man
02-24-2009 06:48 PM
va4cqd
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGWISEXY
non of the piston are damaged seriously.
any piston damage is bad
02-24-2009 06:32 PM
GenYnNC No worries man, I learn a lot about stuff when I screw it up, funny how failure teaches you so much. You can't blame a man for trying to do his best with what he's got and even I don't listen to good advice sometimes.

Sounds like you got a set of #041 castings with accesory holes? If so, this is a solid head and usually flows almost as good as the 2.02... maybe gives up a slight bit after .500 lift but all in all a good head. Maybe do some light touch up work below the intake valve and blend the bowl, if you are comfortable with that, if not don't. From my personal preference I woudld be all over some vortecs for your application but if dad's got the 300hp heads, then so be it.

The 1.94/1.50's will give you the clearance you are looking for, glad to hear nothing is horribly wrong from the previous experiment. As soon as you get'er up to 6,500, the 2.02's will be the last thing you ever think about again.

Best of luck
02-24-2009 06:28 PM
ericnova72 Won't know without a clearance check, that's a pretty good amount of lift and duration for a stock type piston. Is the contact mark flat-on to the eyebrow in the piston or around the" lip"(radial clearance)?
Did you even check the clearance the first time around? Doesn't sound like you did. Clay method is easiest for beginners.
02-24-2009 06:14 PM
BIGWISEXY
new heads with 194 valves will they work?

well guys everyone who told me that the 202 valve would hit is right.. Should have listened from the beginning. being new to the hot rodding society i just try-ed to make do with what i had.. Here is my next question. my dad has a set of 350 300 horse head with 194 valve. Should this work with my 283. The 202 from the Camel humps where barley grazing the pistons,, non of the piston are damaged seriously. Would these heads be a better match for me?
02-23-2009 10:37 PM
GenYnNC Boss, I don't know what to tell you... I was REALLY dissapointed back when I was 14 and read on the side of an Edelbrock box (filled with a used 600cfm carb- my first speed part- well I leave off speed, 1st part I purchaed with my own money when I first got into this deal) and it had a picture of their Performer line of heads. Before I read the fatefull footnote below the picture, I had already spent my next $1000 (4 months of pay). It was going to be devoted to saving just for them to put on my 283... then I read... "For 302-400 CI Chevrolet Small Block Engines..." Naturally, I asked dad why I couldn't slap them on the 283 and he said, "The bores are too small, they won't hold the valves son." I didn't understand then and not much I can tell you now but... 2.02+1.60= 3.62 3.915-3.62= .295-clearance or .148 wiggle room on each side of the intake and exhaust + 50 year old mass produced equipment + core shift + 8 cylinders + machining + RPM +thermal expansion = some potential bad things and curse words to be uttered.

Hope you get it going... I would be pretty bummed in your situation. On a brighter note be GLAD only one valve went tight... I'm sure if it was me all 8 cylinders would have been screwed.
02-23-2009 06:45 PM
BIGWISEXY
Quote:
Originally Posted by GenYnNC
I agree with Old Bogie... this engine build up was posted in another thread on this bulletin board where I stated 2.02's were not going to work... as has been said 1,000 times with bore sizes under 4".
even with it being bored 40 it wont give the clearance for the 202. If so when i started it where should i look for obvious signs of shrouding or damage, i cant see anything on any of the valves or piston wall, or the pistons
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