|11-20-2013 06:05 PM|
I have worked at a shop that has sold royal purple for more than 10 years.In my experience with it I have seen some people get better mileage and go for many miles without issue. I have also seen people get no better mpg's and have internal engine problems sooner than they probably should have. I personally have 291000 miles on my 99 gmc and the only thing that has been changed is the plugs twice, the waterpump once and the oil at 3000-5000 intervals. I have used about 6 different brands of oil and have found no change in anything. As long as api is on the bottle and weight is close I use it. I hope this is helpful to some people.
|11-20-2013 05:00 PM|
|11-20-2013 04:25 PM|
|MouseFink||Slick 50 is better than Royal Purple|
|11-20-2013 10:28 AM|
Your post makes the most sense.
A consumer magazine said as long as you change your oil at the recommended intervals, that is all you need to do for proper protection. Additives, some quite costly are not necessary. I do believe from what I read on the pros and cons of some oils, you may have longer protection than others, because some of the various concoctions of additives may last longer than others. Although I'm not heavy into automotive stuff, this is an interesting forum. Opinions are from one extreme to the other.
|11-19-2013 09:22 PM|
After so many years of owning, driving and manintaining so many cars, including a owning small fleet at one time, I have come to the conclusion ("leapt to the confusion"?) that virtually ANY synthetic oil will be a humongous improvement over ANY "conventional" oil.
Doesn't seem to matter if it is Syntec, Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Q-State, Royal "Burple" , Red Line, or some store's house brand synthetic - all will outperform the conventionals, but choosing between them is a bit more challenging! There is no "right" answer - and also no "wrong" answer Despite what the advertising hype will say about any one brand.
For every person who has gone a zillion miles on "Brand X" with no issues, there are 10 more folks who have gone equally far on Brand A, B, C, D or whatever - also with no issues.
What filter you use is at least as important - maybe even moreso!
The MOST important factor is how often do you change the oil. Do follow the car manufacturer's recommendations ("Change it every 500 million miles and we'll see you again in 3 years for another new car") or do you use your head and realize that oil & filters are the cheapest insurance you can buy - anywhere!
|11-19-2013 07:59 PM|
|11-19-2013 07:39 PM|
You will see a slight increase in mileage with fresh oil. New oil is not the same as used oil, and the quality of used oil can vary all over the place.
Use a good oil and filter, change every 3000 and you'll be fine on that. With proper maintenance many engines are going to near the half a million mile mark now.
|11-19-2013 06:34 PM|
Mileage and power gain of Royal Purple
The claims of of some of the super premium oils and additives is confusing and I just don't know if the extra cost is worth it. I remember a consumer magazine always touted as long as you change oil at the recommended interval, additives aren't needed.
I see on the forum where Mr. Gil has an article "So You Think Royal Purple is '"THE" Oil and then shows where Royal Purple agreed to change advertising claims with NAD (National Advertising D?). This was in response to BP Lubricants
taking Royal Purple to task, showing horsepower and mileage claims don't add up.
Well I'm just a regular guy wanting to take care of my car with quality oil. I was just wondering on how did you performed the test whereby you do see an increase in miles per gallon. Was it done with a certain amount of fuel say one gallon of fuel where under the same conditions as before the switch was made to Royal Purple? Of course the the additive makers compare themselves against each other. I believe I saw where Amsol and Bestline were two that did this, but I'm not sure.
I know it may sound foolish to s some, but the reason I'm asking this question is that I do mileage checks on my car after filling up several times to the max. I'm talking about filling up to the neck of the tank until it runs over, which I do not recommend, but sometimes that did occur.
I found that sometimes it appeared that I got say 4 or 5 miles a gallon increase, but then the mileage would average about the same later on. Of course checking miles per gallon this way, neither confirms or denies an increase for obvious reasons. You just aren't going to drive the same speed, go the same routes, and a number of other variables.
|07-12-2011 11:26 AM|
|07-12-2011 11:10 AM|
Telling what oil is used by the "smell", or deposits left behind is laughable at best, as well. Deposits are normal, heavy sludge is not. Sludge is not going to be left by ANY properly graded oil, UNLESS the owner has far exceeded the required maintainence interval, abused the engine, severly overheated, or does many short drives with no warm up. In my years as a professional technician, 99% of the sludge and heavy deposits in engines were a driect result of operator neglect and abuse. The other 1% was due to incorrect oil grades and/or "mechanic in a can" additives.
P.S: Next month is 18 years, I have been inside a few engines.....
|07-12-2011 08:34 AM|
|07-12-2011 08:17 AM|
the sludge and grime and leaks seen on penzoil engines were not just stories, they were as real as any other oil related issue. You can literally tell a penzoil engine by the smell when you pop a valve cover.
Again, I realize my experiences are not the same as others, and that to most people "oil is oil" I just know enough to stay the hell away from that crap.
In my line of work it is common to see different products that all have the same or nearly the same published specs- however even though many aspects are the same they can vary SIGNIFICANTLY. Its the same with oil certifications, passing some criteria still leaves a lot of aspects that can vary.
|07-12-2011 08:02 AM|
|lmsport||I would just mention that if you have a late model European car that you particular attention to the specs from ILSAC and ACEA for selecting the proper oil. Porsche,BMW and Audi are the only cars that I have seen have catastrophic engine failure from the use of improper oil.|
|07-12-2011 02:17 AM|
AFA needing to have some sort of special, engine-specific oil that is somehow required for an engine- same as a piston is specific to an engine- has not been my observation. As long as a reasonable service interval is followed for filter and oil changes (I still use 3K miles as a guide) and the motor oil has the correct API service rating for the application- or supplements are used if it's lacking, I say all is fine.
But in all the years I've built, driven and raced engines, I've NEVER had an engine failure due to motor oil (or filter) failure. And I have never used synthetic motor oil (except when requested). And I use Fram filters if they're on sale.
I recently saw an article (I don't recall where) or ad that showed the relative amounts of zinc and phosphorus contained in various break in and motor oils. This was likely in Car Craft, only mag I still get and the 'scrip will thankfully be done soon (well-meaning relatives gift). It showed Lucas oil (might have been their racing oil, I don't have the mag handy just now) to have more additives than some/most of the tested break in oils, and more than enough to use 50/50 w/"regular" oil to have enough zinc and phosphorus for flat tappet cams to be 'safe'.
|07-11-2011 11:26 PM|
Also anyone computer savvy? I think this therad needs a new smilley, a red face and a purple face having a pissing contest.
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