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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-24-2009 09:44 PM
General Spraying

You may want to buy a 1.6-1.8 mm nozzle/needle set for your gun to spray the thicker primers; otherwise you can reduce the fan width of your 1.3mm nozzle to provide adequate atomization. You may set regulator at compressor lower than 90psi to minimize dP at the gun regulator as long as you can maintain continuous 29psi (follow paint PSI spec and gun PSI spec) to the full open gun for several minutes. If you take the dP at the compressor you have a better chance of collecting water from the compressed air in your downward sloping lines and filters not your paint.

First Pass Gun Setup:

Start with gun air valve wide open.

Providing nozzle size meets paint spec start with fluid nozzle wide open for first test spray.

Providing Nozzle to spec start with fan control wide open for first test spray.

It would be worth while to buy some cheap enamel/laquer, reducer/thinner, and a viscosity cup so you don't waste your precious dupont paints getting used to your gun.
Mix some enamel the same viscosity as your dupont paint. Get some sheet metal scrap for test sprays; paper does not work that nice. Do some 2' wide test sprays to get a feel for how fast to move your gun. Try moving your gun too fast to check atomization.

With the cheap paint in the gun you can play with fluid knob and you will get the feel of it before spraying your car.

Spraying metallic sometime results in banding. Try spraying each coat in criss cross patterns. Better check paint specs before reducing final fog coats. I believe Dupont addresses this issue in their website.

Be careful with flash times. If your film is thicker than normal in some places or the temp or humidity is off then you better error towards to much flash time than too little.

I would not touch the color base with tack cloth pre clear. If you do you better be very sure it is dry. Do tack pre base of course. Do not press on tack cloth hard enough to rub the sticky stuff on your car. Do carefully wet walls and floors often with a pump up sprayer. Do buy 2 used nebulizers and clear tubing to pump fresh air into your 3M respirator. Do plan your paint sequence before spraying. It is easy to get ugly overspray in trunk gutters and door jams if you don't plan your stroke sequence properly.

Spray one extra coat of clear on all sharp edges post base coat/pre final clear coat.

If your clear has orange peel then spray one extra coat to allow for color sanding.
05-14-2009 08:31 PM
newbie question

Hey all,

New to painting and will be taking on my first job on the 1977 CJ5 I am building. I am hoping to paint this weekend. I have painted some small parts so far but nothing this large yet. I bought the sharpe FX3000 with the 1.3 tip to do the job. I had the harbor frieght gun that was pretty beat up so I def. needed to get a new one. I got my paint today which is the dupont chromo base and matching clear I believe or it may be the montana clear. Anyway I have read so many contradicting things on how to setup the gun that I am not sure how to go about it. I have a regulator on the gun so I read to leave the air valve on the bottom fully open correct??? The gun manual says maximum HVLP inbound air pressure 29psi so that is with the trigger fully open right?? I also have the fluid knob about 2 1/2 turns out. I have the compressor set at right around 90. Does all this sound about right??? Also the base color I got was a light silver metallic which was prolly not the smartest choice for my first big job. I read it will prolly be best to do a mist coat at the end to even it all out. Do I add more reducer for this??? I believe the base says 1 to 1 with the reducer and the clear is 4 to 1 with activator. Sorry for all the questions I just wanted to try and get this right the first time. Thanks for any help anyone can give me.

Also I believe it says that I only needed to wait 15 min to 1/2 hour to clear over the base, is this correct? I thought I needed to tack rag the base off before I cleared?

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