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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-27-2009 02:59 PM
bobinbc Thanks, the rear was 74 nova 60" wide sitting on top of the springs. Took some leaves out until there was only 4 or 5 left (truck was originally a long box so it had a Huge spring pack) Added a set of SouthSide Machine lift bars that I modified to work with this set-up. It hooked up pretty good and rode decent as well. I took it to the friday night street car drags lots.
07-27-2009 11:39 AM
RODDER18 bobinbc, Thank you. Yes it sits about the same as yours. I used a 1986 Monte sub frame. I still need to drop the rear some, maybe an inch or so. Did you flip your rear spring mounts? Looks great!!!
07-27-2009 02:25 AM
bobinbc Nice truck, Rodder18 ! The stance is great! When I did my 57 I tried to get it as low as I could and still be a daily driver (no airbags) Very similar to yours I think but with a 14" front wheel and tall tire.

I didn't take any pics when I clipped mine but here's a pretty good thread on doing a clip for anyone who's interested. This is the same clip I used on the 57, it fits the TF frame a lot better than the 47-54 frame and tucks the wheels in a bit.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=320546

Autobuff, if you decide to go with a camaro clip and you want to have the truck sit low, try to do the graft so the clip frame is higher than the truck frame. This is better than dropped spindles which make your crossmember and engine sit too low. Hope this helps.
07-26-2009 10:36 PM
RODDER18
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
I can do a Nova/Camaro clip Way way cheaper then any kit..Sorry, been there !!!! done that !!!!! Plus the cheaper kits will never ride as good as a Camaro..Sorry!!!! And like it was said here,I would much rather put a camaro/Nova clip on a heavy truck then a kit,Any day..
I agree. If you want it low and still have a good ride a sub frame is the way to go. You just can't get it as low with an after market kit and have a good ride. Also try dropping it this low and still be able to run 15x8 Corvette Rally wheels. As for the been there done that. Check out my gallery you will see the first suspension I installed. It was easier to install but sat too high and the wheel base was too wide.

http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/sh...y.php/cat/3465
07-26-2009 03:18 PM
autobuff this is the one with the 77 chevy 1/2 ton clip what do you think should i keep this clip just cut the engine support to lower the engine and trans to fit under the cab and rack &pinion cause the center link wont fit with the engine down
07-26-2009 03:11 PM
autobuff here we go pics
07-26-2009 02:51 PM
autobuff i guess i cant put on the pics
07-26-2009 02:41 PM
autobuff well here is some pics as you see we had to fix the pass door it rusted bad
07-26-2009 01:59 PM
autobuff thanks i saw the link i read it throgh and i think i will go the camaro/nova clip route that would be easier for me to go i am going to try to take pics of what we done and post them and see what u guys think
07-25-2009 06:00 PM
NEW INTERIORS I can do a Nova/Camaro clip Way way cheaper then any kit..Sorry, been there !!!! done that !!!!! Plus the cheaper kits will never ride as good as a Camaro..Sorry!!!! And like it was said here,I would much rather put a camaro/Nova clip on a heavy truck then a kit,Any day..
07-25-2009 02:33 PM
AntnyL
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobinbc
About those boxing plates, a friend just installed a TCI on his 56 and the boxing plates had to be trimmed to fit the frame depth and extended because they were supplied too short to do any good. And not all kits come with them as standard. Here's a link to the install I'm referring to http://canadianrodder.com/forum/show...?t=3110&page=2
Enjoy !
Great link! I bookmarked it. My MII kit was a TCI as well, hub-to-hub. I didn't have a problem with the length of the boxing plates that came with it, they were plenty long. I did have to trim the lower frame flange a bit in order for the plates to fit flush on the frame. I beveled all edges of the plates, as well as the frame edges, to get maximum penetration. I think that's a critical step to ensuring a strong weldment. I didn't 'dress' my welds at all, left them as-is. I didn't care what those welds look like (mine's not a show truck, just a weekend driver), I rather have as much weld strength as possible. I also welded close-off plates to the open ends of the cross-member, for added rigidity.

Thanks for the link, I'll keep checking it for progress. Its an excellent how-to for folks looking to tackle one of these builds.
07-25-2009 12:08 PM
bobinbc About those boxing plates, a friend just installed a TCI on his 56 and the boxing plates had to be trimmed to fit the frame depth and extended because they were supplied too short to do any good. And not all kits come with them as standard. Here's a link to the install I'm referring to http://canadianrodder.com/forum/show...?t=3110&page=2
Enjoy !
07-25-2009 12:02 PM
AntnyL
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobinbc
You're not being a jerk at all. I know that many, many people have used these kits and are very happy with them. I just don't agree that they are inherently better, easier to install, or more cost efficient.

As far as the MII kits being beefy, sorry but I think the Camaro has the advantage there. Of course, the strength of both types will ultimately depend on the skill of the welder/installer.
Tubular a-arms, 11" brakes, swaybar all extra on the kit ($$$) and must be done to approximate being just equal to the clip.
T-bird rack, yes it's a heavier car but isn't the rack the same as the MII except for an increase in width? Granted the r&p can have a nice feel to it but add power steering and the feel goes away.
As for using junkyard parts, the clip in my truck was from a low-mileage running car with a shot tranny. The clip on my new truck came from a 4 door car that was driven until recently, and then it became a parts car for a friend's resto project. Neither car had ever been in an accident and all the wear parts were/will be replaced just like on a new kit. The cost for the clip in both cases was simply asking for them and bringing them home, in other words, free. In fact, I have never had to use a clip from the wrecking yard as these cars are still available cheap all the time.
Yes there was some work involved to pull the clips and I did have to get a bit dirty. And the parts weren't all shiny and clean at first, I had to do that. But I feel the end result is worth it and I'm WAAAY ahead on cost.

I'm not trying to change anyone's mind, just stating my opinion based on my experiences. Your opinion is welcome too.
Well if the clip come free (or close to it), then that's a no-brainer. I'd jump at that option too. I was comparing the purchase of a donor clip to that of an MII kit. The original post requested a solution that "wasn't major work". Having done both, I think the kit was much easier. Installing the clip itself was simple enough, but messing with the rad mounts, sheetmetal and bumper mounts was a nightmare. Then again, I was young and stupid. Now, I'm older and stupider, I guess. LoL.
07-25-2009 11:56 AM
bobinbc You're not being a jerk at all. I know that many, many people have used these kits and are very happy with them. I just don't agree that they are inherently better, easier to install, or more cost efficient.

As far as the MII kits being beefy, sorry but I think the Camaro has the advantage there. Of course, the strength of both types will ultimately depend on the skill of the welder/installer.
Tubular a-arms, 11" brakes, swaybar all extra on the kit ($$$) and must be done to approximate being just equal to the clip.
T-bird rack, yes it's a heavier car but isn't the rack the same as the MII except for an increase in width? Granted the r&p can have a nice feel to it but add power steering and the feel goes away.
As for using junkyard parts, the clip in my truck was from a low-mileage running car with a shot tranny. The clip on my new truck came from a 4 door car that was driven until recently, and then it became a parts car for a friend's resto project. Neither car had ever been in an accident and all the wear parts were/will be replaced just like on a new kit. The cost for the clip in both cases was simply asking for them and bringing them home, in other words, free. In fact, I have never had to use a clip from the wrecking yard as these cars are still available cheap all the time.
Yes there was some work involved to pull the clips and I did have to get a bit dirty. And the parts weren't all shiny and clean at first, I had to do that. But I feel the end result is worth it and I'm WAAAY ahead on cost.

I'm not trying to change anyone's mind, just stating my opinion based on my experiences. Your opinion is welcome too.
07-25-2009 11:14 AM
AntnyL LoL. Nice volley!

i think there is a misconception that the "Mustang II kits" are parts from, or built exactly like, a Mustang suspension. Truth is, they are not. The concept and the geometry of the Mustang II is what is used to fabrictate these kits, which are mighty beefy. Did a Mustang come with tubular control arms? Nope. 11" brakes? Nope. Want a sway bar? No problem, the kits do indeed come with a sway bar if you ask for it. The kits also come with pre-cut boxing plates, designed to fit the vehicle you'e working on, and the kit comes with the proper springs too for the vehicle. No fabbing required, no plasma cutter required, no fabrication required to allow the front sheetmetal to bolt up (that sounds like LOADS of fun!). Rack and pinion steering came on T'Birds too, much heavier cars. That's what comes in these kits ('88 T'bird units). And the kits come with new components, not 30-year old pieces with unknown history, potential damage (if it's coming out of a junkyard, why is there?). LoL. Unlike clips, that have 30+ years of wear and tear on them, that need to be (or should be) rebuilt, need to be inspected for damage, repaired as necessary, etc. 1/2-ton pckups aren't much heavier than Mustangs anyway. Getting the wheels cntered in the wheelwells is easy. Measure twice, weld once, that's all.

But to each his own, I was simply trying to offer another solution that may prove to be more cost effective, easier to install, and come with new components that were designed to work on the vehicle you're building. Sorry for being a jerk.
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