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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-05-2009 10:52 PM
elcaminodragster the plugs are perfect and the balancer is in good condition. im sure this engine just doesnt like being advanced. its factory timing is 0* and the cam specs say to set it 2* BTDC

i checked the thermostat and it was opening early (145*) so i installed a new 180*
09-05-2009 09:27 PM
FmrStrtracer
Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaminodragster
'67-'75, 3-spoke, driver's side timing, forged....
http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchan...tegory_Code=CHR

that is the one i have. ill pull the plugs tonight and check them out.
That has the outer ring, check the condition of the elastomer, look for signs of slipage
09-05-2009 05:43 PM
elcaminodragster '67-'75, 3-spoke, driver's side timing, forged....
http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchan...tegory_Code=CHR

that is the one i have. ill pull the plugs tonight and check them out.
09-05-2009 05:00 PM
techinspector1 '67-'75, 3-spoke, driver's side timing, forged....
http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant...egory_Code=CHR
'69-up, 3-spoke, 2 belt...
http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant...egory_Code=CHR
09-05-2009 03:58 PM
FmrStrtracer
Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaminodragster
the balancer cant slip it has a key way on it. and it will take the advance but if i rev it up to say around 3000 it pops through the carb. the book says it should be timed at 0* TDC (with factory parts). i put in a 252H from comp cams. and they said to try advancing 2* at a time. 3* runs the best but its hurting the temps.
Usually, balancers have an enertia ring held on by a rubber elastomer, and this is the part that can fail and allow the outer ring to move, making the timing mark usless. Some motors only come with a single piece Hub. Which do you have?

Besides the cam, what other parts did you add or change? (pistons, exhaust, head work)
What do your spark plugs look like? Should have a light tan coating on the porcelin insulator. White is too lean, darker than tan is too rich, metal flakes stuck to the porcelin mean detonation
Did you replace the valve springs?
09-05-2009 12:48 PM
elcaminodragster the balancer cant slip it has a key way on it. and it will take the advance but if i rev it up to say around 3000 it pops through the carb. the book says it should be timed at 0* TDC (with factory parts). i put in a 252H from comp cams. and they said to try advancing 2* at a time. 3* runs the best but its hurting the temps.
09-05-2009 12:35 PM
DoubleVision If it wouldn`t allow much timing then I`d say the markings on the balancer are off. It`s likely the balancer has slipped.
09-04-2009 09:46 PM
FmrStrtracer
Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaminodragster

all in town driving it stays at about 140* so would that mean the thermostat is stuck open or opens to early???
Yes, pull the thermostat and check its operation in a pot of water with a cooking thermometer.
09-04-2009 05:21 PM
elcaminodragster ok so i messed with the timing and i must say this engine hates being advanced! i had it at 5* turned it to 8* then tried 10* and the thing was popping and back firing through the carb. so i put it back down to 5* ran good. then i tried tuning it by ear and it sounds best at 3* so i left it at 3*

i was driving around all day today and it performs pretty good.

all in town driving it stays at about 140* so would that mean the thermostat is stuck open or opens to early???
09-04-2009 11:37 AM
elcaminodragster well ill first mess with the timing, carb settings and get some water wetter. if it the temps still climb ill check the thermostat
09-03-2009 01:52 AM
DoubleVision We had a 67 dart with the same slant 6 and it didn`t come with a shroud either. If it gets hot on the interstate but not in city driving check the thermostat, it could be opening and not closing. My cutlass would do the same thing and I finally got around to checking the T stat it would open when it should but it wouldn`t close until the water temp was back down to 120 or so.
09-03-2009 01:32 AM
techinspector1 Go to the boneyard and look at the trucks with 6's in them, particularly if you can find a heavy duty truck. They'll have the best system (large diameter, multi-blade steel fan and shroud to fit) that was designed at the factory to provide maximum cooling. If you can find one with a fan clutch, so much the better. You said the motor heated up on the freeway, so what I'm suggesting wouldn't necessarily help on the freeway, but it will sure work around town better than what you have now. I wouldn't install a flex fan on anything. They're next to worthless in my opinion.
09-03-2009 12:50 AM
elcaminodragster its a new radiator with a 180* thermostat. im not so sure its lean as it is a bit rich at idle and part throttle.

i will mess with timing and even the carb a bit. i did not drive enough after i got off the freeway to notice a drop in temps.

i realize 220 is not a "bad" temp but its a bit high for my taste. i would at least like to see the temps drop 15* even 10* would be nice.
09-02-2009 11:13 PM
TorkMonster400 make a trip down to your local puller yard and find a shroud that might fit close and then go to trimmin. I'm sure with a little imagination you can find one. I would also look for a small lower airdam piece to direct some air up into your radiator.
09-02-2009 06:14 PM
FmrStrtracer The chrome cover wont really help, its more of a dressed up safety item, if it doesnt surround the fan, it wont draw any more air.

Is the radiator up to the job, clean, no plug rows?

Is the cap holding its rated pressure?

Since its only on the highway that it heats up, Id look more at timing and jetting, since youre getting maximum air flow at the higher speed..

Does it cool down right away when you get off the highway? That would definitely be more indicative of a lean fuel mixture or retarded timing.

By the way, 220* is not overheating, most newer cars operate close to that temp, but getting it to run cooler wouldnt be a bad thing in your case.
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