|02-08-2011 06:01 PM|
this past winter
before this past season
|02-06-2011 06:06 AM|
Glad you got it figured out. And thank's for posting back and letting us know.
|02-06-2011 06:00 AM|
|UPandComing||best i can find for now|
|02-06-2011 04:59 AM|
|02-06-2011 04:09 AM|
|DoubleVision||Good deal. I looked back at the picture you included when you first did this post last year and it sure looks nice. However I would put that flex fan in the trash where it belongs.|
|02-05-2011 11:57 PM|
ok to everyone who posted here sorry it took so long to write again, i made allot of changes to the car, i found out why it wouldnt start, one day at the track someone was lookin it over with me , we discovered that when the engine gets hott the magnetic pickup in the distributor actually moves apart (the gap widens) after moving it closer the problem was resolved and actually cleared up the popping issues
|04-05-2010 07:07 AM|
|UPandComing||i run a high torgue starter , this dam engine is kickin my butt i know iv done everything right dunno what to do|
|04-02-2010 03:44 PM|
|T-bucket23||Set the timing with a light to about12-14 initial and I bet your problems go away. Trying to start a hot engine at 35BDC is going to be tough unless you have a high torque starter.|
|04-02-2010 12:59 PM|
|UPandComing||i run 5 psi of fuel pressure i wonder if its to much? maybe the engine is to lean? maybe mallory components just suck?|
|02-08-2010 08:34 PM|
|frank23834||I would guess the module in the distributor. When they warm up they can go out, but run great on start-up. If your distributor has one or not. Just guessing here..LOL|
|02-08-2010 08:27 PM|
I agree its got to be timing. However, flooding or improperly turned carburetor(s) or excessive oil leaking past the valve seals will make it a real ****** to start too. These problems usually occur when the engine is hot and once the engine is cool the engine starts. It may not have anything to do with the temperature, just the fact that the flooded engine will clear up some on its own after a while. Also, a cold engine needs to run a little on the rich side so the remaining excess fuel will help it start then.
A rich mixture doesn't need as much advance to fire so maybe that is why moving the timing helps it start.
Just a thought.
|02-08-2010 12:39 PM|
You need to check the cam with a degree wheel, even if you set the timing gears and chain up properly by the marks, you wouldn't be the first guy to purchase a cam that's ground off it's marks.
|02-08-2010 10:56 AM|
|BBCMudbogger||even if there is no vacuum adv there is still probably mechanical advance unless it has been locked out|
|02-08-2010 10:27 AM|
Why are you not using a vacuum advance?[/QUOTE]
iv gone through a bunch of distributors from points to hei, to the one with the infared breaker, dual point , now the magnetic breakerless they all had vac advance accept the magnetic breakerless and it seems to run best
|02-08-2010 05:35 AM|
If you don't have either a dial back timing light or a degreed damper, MAKE A TIMING TAPE.
If you want to be sure the pointer and damper mark is correct for TDC, DETERMINE TDC.
The initial timing- that is the timing at idle, w/o centrifugal or vacuum advance added in- can be anywhere in the 8 to 14 degrees BTDC range. This is a rough estimate- the actual timing will vary from engine to engine depending on a multitude of factors.
TOTAL timing (centrifugal plus initial timing) should be in the area of 36 degrees BTDC, all in before 3000 RPM.
Why are you not using a vacuum advance?
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