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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-15-2010 10:29 PM
icsmannn
Painter Man

Well there's no doubt that you have a lot of experience with the painting feature! That's pretty valuable experience you're getting, with having the oppty to compare different brands and manufacturers of paint! Hang in there.......the snow will melt eventually!

L8R
02-10-2010 11:37 AM
DTiberi10
Primer/Base/Clear/Buffing

I work full time as a painter, and have a shop on the side. Id like to just give some insite of some of the materials I use and have had luck with, and maybe help someone out and give them ideas, or someone could give me pointers....can never stop learning!

I grew up around my dad a die hard PPG guy.....painted using sikkens and absolutly hated it, then got a job using dupont, and loved dupont since the day I started painting it.....

Primer/Sealer-- At work and down my shop I stick with Duponts high build chroma primer (32430). I have luck with it, it has high build to it, dried at a good rate, never had many problems compared to whenever I would use ppg primer had big cases of it sucking up. For restorations though my dad put me on to korlar primer, which is an industrial primer that they use on boats and planes supposably. Well it takes forever to dry but had some crazy amount of mills, and letting it set a couple weeks then blocking it does a great job. He painted a 79 vette...**** probably been 10 years now using that primer and the sucker is still smooth like the day he buffed it. They took something out of it which makes it so cheap to buy, whatever helps it dry. So it takes alittle longer to dry but it is cheap and give you the body you need to do your first prime with on restorations. Def worth looking into! With sealers id have to say hands down duponts valueshade (42410-42470). Obviously tinting the color of grey you lay down before your base will help out with coverage, but this sealer is the smoothest sealer and never had any come backs using it, its great!

Basecoat-- At work were using chromabase, which when you learn to use right is I feel the best base out there. Instead of ****ing with variants for any amount of time, you type in the vin code and it narrows down the variant. I dont care who you are sooner or later you have to panel paint somewhere when doing spot repair. Whether its a bumper, new fender you dont blend the hood. Whatever the case is, for instance I buy all my base through my work. So i got a car down the shop, i grab the year, paint code, and vin number of the car. Bring that info to work, mix the paint, and 80%-90% of the time i NEVER have problems with color match. It beats sitting at the PPG paint store or any paint store with the gas lid door, a pint of paint, and a mixing stick trying to see if that is the right variant saturday morning! But duponts base lays nice and flat, color match, covers well with there sealer, and just does the trick. Dont get me wrong I have to go buy that ppg every once in a while, or whatever the case is I spray different base depending on the situation of the job, but if i want that sucker to get banged out, chromabase is my baby!!!! But 2012 waterbase will be everywhere, so were all doomed! IDK what the hell to expect with that ****, is it going to be like the switch from laquor to urethane I hear my dad talking about all the time and the old heads at work (no offence old heads), im was lucky to walk into the urethane not having to buff 600 scatches on every job laquor days!


Clearcoat-- I am a man of all clearcoats! Ill use em all I dont care! lol but my baby right now is southern polyurethane. I dont know if you guys ever heard of this **** but it is a sidework mans dream. Its like $180 for a gallon of clear and gallon of activator. It is a 1-1 reduction and is high solid. Lays like god damn glass to the fullest, im telling you and it buffs like butter!! The **** dries in a oven in 10 minutes, and 2 hour dry time at my shop without the oven. My boss wouldnt use anything but dupont for 30 years, and he uses it now. He loves the price, 10 minute bake, and the durability. Dont get me wrong, alot of high end shops in delaware are switching to this, its no cheap clear like your nason, or shop-line. Its great I tell you, a guy painted a old school blazer, set it outside for 5 years, got the urge to finish it. Buffed it and cleaned her up, 5 years later that sucker looked like when he painted it. Now as far as production when im not using that ****, I love the ppg 3000 clear, and dupont 4500 clear. Both clears like nice, get the job done, and the damn price you pay you bet your *** there durable! All over clears, by far I love PPG 2002 clear. Like no other clear, this is what my cars go in. The 2002 lays like butter, you crank that air pressure, and just lay that ****, make a black car look ****in great. I love 2002 clear, takes long to dry, but its well worth it on that car you got all that time blocking and prepping...........As far as them cheap cars, like i fix cars for dealerships, and cheap fixes. PPG's shop line is cheap and you get that extra bang for your buck, so god damn cheap. Dries fast lays nice and buffs easy. I tried this **** out, Martin Senior has a clear out that instead of clearing say your painting a fender and a door, you put your first coat on your fender, first coat on the door. Let it sit.... then you put your second coats on. Well with this **** you instantly put both coats (double coat) your fender, and double coat your door and let dry in regular conditions for 15 minutes and it is ready to buff, and **** actually looks great! I keep a gallon of that around for the ****ed up situations you find yourself in! You know what im talking about! Overall, the southern ployurethane is my baby, spot repair with a great dry time, or overall paint jobs, I put top notch work out with this ****, and make good money with it!



Buffing--On show cars ill block down with 1000, block down with 1500, go over with 2000 by hand, and while i wetsand go all in one direction so the compound goes with the grain and buffs easier. Right before I buff I go over with the 3000 trizac and whether is wool or foam first or second swipe the sand scratches are gone. The 3000 trizac is expendsive but well worth it. I actually consider it my best freind, i take it home and watch football with it, thats how much it helps me out lol. A short cut I pull on **** that arent show cars, and still comes out great is 800 on the DA, knock it all down, then block it with 1500, and trizac with the 3000. I had a guy that did everyone old school this i was crazy, now he does everything with that method! I never burn through either! Give it a shot if you think im crazy, well only if you wana knock that buff time down!



---I dont want to seem like a know it all, i may seem like a fool for writing all this. But hey if someone picks something up from this, or I pick something up from a reply, hell being snowed in and bored while im losing money from not being able to work maybe wont end up being so bad! Im anxious to hear reply's. And I seen someone posted a big picture of some clear they prefer that I am going to ask about after this, id like to hear some more about it.

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