i have 65 389 with a tripower engine gets hot after running a wile reset timeing , carbs, new fan , new high flow waterpump, 3rd thermastat , new shroud, new 4 core radeator , have antifreeze mixture at 50/50 and have added water wetter and was checked for blown headgasket it was ok i can drive the car about 1/2 hr to 45 min before it gets to aroung 205 and then it just takes off and starts to lose engine vacumn and the power brakes start to fail does anyone have any ideas anything thanks
A vacuum gauge is what you need if you want to get it set just right or as good as it can be. aim for 20# of vacuum at adle speed or as good as you can get it if you have a HP cam in there.
i noticed my front brakes get so hot that they start holding on and my pedal gets hard could my master cylender be getting to hot i stuck my finger in the fluid and was not hot would my power booster cause the brakes to hold when it gets hot i ajusted the timing and carbs again as long as it is moving and doesnt get stoped at lights or anything it will stay around 180 and if you can move at a good speed no sloww driving but if you let it set and idle it will get to about 230 it starts loseing oil pressure around 190 to 215 it gets low it doesnt lose it all together i am about to put new calipers and master cyl and booster and a new enine and tranny i forgot to mention that when it gets hot the tranny starts lossing 3rd gear i am so pissed anyone live around new castle pa that could help let me know thanks
Your tri-pwer setup should bolt right up. I did that to a 69 400 from an earlier year 389 and it worked pretty good till I got fed up with the constant adjustments to keep it running good as I only re-built the center carb. Went back to a 650cfm holley and actually got better performance and drivability.
make sure the upper radiator hose doesnt go upwards before entering the intake. I had a similar problem> I had an air pocket and the water wasnt flowing enough. Good luck anyway.
I had my 389 rebuilt and it overheated and vapor locked after it warmed up. I could only drive it about 1/2 miles and it would vapor lock, i would let it cool down and it would start again. What I found out was the intake gaskets cross flow under the carb were wide open, wrong intake gaskets. I put the correct ones in that had the middle port blocked off (I have an electric choke but if you have a thermo choke you will need to install the ones with a very small hole) and the vapor lock up stopped. Bottom line when I checked the intake mantifold under the carb was hotter than the exhaust mantifold. You might want to look at that for the vapor locking.
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