Hot Rod Forum banner

Electrolytic rust removal

5K views 32 replies 14 participants last post by  deadbodyman 
#1 ·
Will try to keep this brief and simple. Thanks to DEADBODYMAN, I decided to try a DIY method of de-rusting some parts. I only had to purchase the washing soda, ($2.20 at Publix)....
I "borrowed" a wire coat hanger from my wife to suspend my pulley in the solution and also as a conductor for the NEGATIVE battery clamp. The POSITIVE+ clamp will be attached to the piece of flat iron on the opposite side of the container. BE SURE THE RUSTY ITEM AND THE ELECTODE (PIECE OF IRON) DO NOT TOUCH.
-I used a clamp to attach the flat piece of iron to the inside of the plastic container, (it's best not to let the electrode rest on the bottom, I will show why in the last pic)
-Make sure the battery charger clamps are not in the solution.
 

Attachments

See less See more
5
#27 ·
thank you, it explains why I'm having an issue. I went to the store and gave it back to them and asked the guy at electronics department if I can have something that will give constant charge no matter what, but unfortunately ALL the chargers are overcharge-or-whatever-proof. Ah well, so hard to get anything in Canada. I guess I'll buy a PC power supply and try it from there...
 
#29 ·
I've been following this thread with interest, and it brings up a question.

How would this work with a rusty shortblock that's been sitting outside? Specifically, would the solution dissolve the aluminum pistons, at least enough to get the block apart? All I really care about is saving the block, and the prospect of grinding out the pistons is not attractive. Maybe the solution will dissolve the rust on the cylinder walls enough to hammer the pistons out? Thoughts?
 
#31 ·
Joe, i have been useing this process for several years (and many many parts) it works great, but my experience is somewhat contrary to deadbodymans (no offence dead :thumbup: ) the process is very much a "line of sight process" so rust is removed only where the anode and electrode can "see" each other. i have done a few sets of EXPENSEVE headers that have come out like brand new, but had to rearrange the headers and sacrificial electrodes several times so the parts could all "see" each other.

as for the gas bubbles that come off the parts when this is working, the annode and electrode, one emmits oxygen and the other hydrogen (don't remember which is which and who cares :D ) the important thing is hydrogen burns, so do in a well ventilated area. i set up my tub outside on a corner of the patio and the hydrogen bubbles being much lighter than air just float away.

Joe-your question- the sacrificial metal will not "see" the rings and from my experience will not work, no it will not dissolve aluminum. use a high quality penatrating oil and cover the pistons with maybe 1/8-1/4 inch of oil with the cylinders oriented vertically for a couple of days. after this use a peice of 2x4 on the top of the pistons and whack with a 4 or 8 pound sledge to dislodge the stuck rings, always has worked for me :thumbup:
 
#32 ·
I appreciate the suggestions. I'm mainly concerned with getting the worst of the rust off the cylinders above the pistons so I can hammer them out from the bottom. I suspect that I should be able to do that with the electrolytic solution (with moving the electrode) and then use the penetrating oil to free the rings.
 
#33 ·
I've never done a block before but I would try standing it up so the cylinders are vertical and putting it in the middle of the tank and surround it with 5or6 electrodes on the outer edge of the tank....either way it'll hardly cost anything to find out and it'll only take 24hrs at the most but dont forget to clean of the electrode every 2 hrs or so ,they get caked up pretty fast.It would be interesting to find out how it works let us know if you try it....It should work.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top