|01-13-2011 07:41 AM|
8 years, I got the proportion valve off a 73 bonneville
It is a cast iron. I put some disks on front and 9" rear 3.70, ford master cylinder. worked for years. 1940 coupe (pictures) on profile. I had a 305 with saginaw overdrive. Now, I have a 500 cadillac with TH400 and beefed up the MMII, boxes. As orginal as I can inside and out.
I had to replace the ford master to a corvette master. The front was working fine, until when I rolled on a rack to alignment, it was raining that day and I was scared becaused the man working on it. So I went very slowly, the rear was wanting to go (I realized no brakes). The guy working on it, I had the front disks wanted to stop (ECI) 5/1/2" for the 40 16" originals all around.
The master seemed to work. The rear would with a fight just to get hydraulic to the rearend. I stomped on the brakes, it is manual. that's my Footstomper name.
A friend told me to go to the junkyard, we have snow, so I got in the garage and pulled the proportion valve last night. I cleaned it as the best I could, I used some air through orfications. The rear side had a fitting and on the front side had a pin, I did tapped alittle. The rear side came out pipe brass with a "O" ring. I got a allen wrench and wd-40, I cleaned it and air began moving. I put all the lines (about all the bonneville had, at least 6 lines). It was cold, and I will have to try it today. I have the car up on stands, and when someone to look at the right tire whether if it stops (I hope), if it keeps rolling with make me mad!
|01-12-2011 04:26 PM|
I agree with latech And what exactly are you working on ? Just go out and but a new proportion valve for it and bleed all the brakes like latech said. And if you have rear drum brakes after bleeding the system adjust the rear brakes till you have a slight drag on them when turning them by hand. Let us know how it goes and if you get them fixed. JMO
|01-12-2011 04:15 PM|
dont hammer on it as brass is soft and you could deform it and render it junk.
If you want to attempt to try an re center the valve you should loosen the line on the master cylinder for the system that is working and then go in and take a quick sharp stab at the brake pedal, listen for the valve to click, have the key on so you can see light warning light go out.You may have to jab it several times to get it to move. when you do then tighten up the lines and CAREFULLY bleed the system.Bleed the rear firststarting with the passenger rear and then the other and then go to the front. Do the pass first then the drivers side, pumping can sometimes introduce air in the system so try to gravity bleed it, justopen up the bleeder and let er go till all the air is out.
By the way is the brake system for a 40 ford or is it from the 70 ish caddy donor car? The 40 ford wont have a prop valve only a junction. If your not getting fluid in the back then either a rubber line is plugged/blocked or a steel line is flattened out. Better check into that
|01-11-2011 06:40 PM|
Proportioning Valve is stuck
Brakes work great on the front, the rear is nearly any brakes at all. I jacked all wheels. I crank it, put it in to gear and with all my might to stop the rear one wonder right will not stop. Is anything to take the proportioning off and clean it? A friend told you could hammer on it, sometimes the little ball and spring may ever work again. I pulled the speed bleeders and I got a little hydraulic to the rear. If all that, I may have to buy a new Proportioning valve. If the valve starts right, I then will have a stop lights too. I also bought a Tractor Supply temp sender, the electrical original just would not work. The temp modified the housing for the 40 cluster with 3" (?) It looks just like the rest of the rest. It does just great.
I am concerned about the valve, I have two lines to front, and rear with the same.