Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine> 1990 K1500 TBI with 1982 chevy 350 no power
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: 1990 K1500 TBI with 1982 chevy 350 no power Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
04-27-2011 02:02 PM
zdg0189 well ihave the same issue and have replaced everything im gonna put the original injection intake on this weekend will let you know if this solves the problem.
04-26-2011 05:48 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljgriggs
I put a 1982 Chevy 350 into a 1990 K1500 with TBI. I used an adapter plate to mount the throttle body on the stock '82 intake. I kept every electronic component including the EST distributor except for the EGR and the knock sensor. The knock sensor did not work on the old engine and it had more power than this engine does. the engine that I put in had been rebuilt recently. The problem that I am having is when the throttle is opened quickly (such as stomping on the gas) the engine cuts out for a few seconds then picks back up but there is no power going down the road. The old engine was in bad shape and this new engine is in great shape but the old engine had more power than the new one. Things arent adding up for me so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

PS: Timing bracket is not on the timing cover and timing was set by ear and the idle is smooth as silk.
Without EGR the mixture at cruise is too lean. If EGR isn't there the missing volume is made up for with air. The computer has no way of knowing this without a chip change for a custom programmed unit. Engine as it is will idle fine and might even run good a WOT but in-between there's nothing but trouble.

How do you know the knock sensor didn't work, they don't announce anything when the engine hits ping they just tell the computer to pull the timing back which it does till there's no ping it can hear.

And of course you really don't know what the base timing is. Given the computer calculates timing on what it think's is throttle position, RPM, and manifold vacuum. If there's too much or too little base the amount the computer picks off the map could be in combination with the base setting too little or too much total timing either of which kills power.

These are things you;ll have to check out.


Bogie
04-26-2011 04:28 PM
zdg0189 i have the same problem cant figure it out thinking bout puting the original intake on
01-12-2011 06:14 PM
LATECH I am sure it doesnt have OPTIMUM airflow/performance.I think that would be a secondary issue,still worth addressing.
Focus on the timing issue, that is probably the biggest part of the problem. Knowing the other engine puked I wanted to voice my concern that the exhaust could be plugged. Just one other possisility that could be left over.
I have seen plugged exhausts destroy an engine from the heat from a fuel imbalance in the system that creates a blast furnace in the cats and melts the engine and the cats down into scrap.Just my years of experience talking. Take it or leave it.
01-12-2011 06:03 PM
ljgriggs [QUOTE=latech]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ljgriggs
I put a 1982 Chevy 350 into a 1990 K1500 with TBI. I used an adapter plate to mount the throttle body on the stock '82 intake. I kept every electronic component including the EST distributor except for the EGR and the knock sensor.

So you kept all the components for the 1990 , correct?
The 82 distributor and esc wont co mingle well with a 90 TBI
The adapter plate thing will cause a problem for sure,as well as not being able to time it correctly.
My thoughts turned to possibly a plugged exhaust system as well.
But you should put the CORRECT INTAKE on for TBI. Also you need to be sure of the timing.
Dont sweat the knock sensor problem at the moment, but dont forget about it alltogether. If it is not hooked up it wont RETARD the timing as it only sends a signal when a spark knock occurs. The computer only retards the timing 3 degrees at a time when a knock signal occurs.
The distributor is from the original TBI engine so it has the electronic advance. How could the adapter plate cause a problem. it goes on top of the spread bore intake with a typical spread bore gasket, it takes the primary holes out of the picture and the throttle body mounts over the secondaries using a standard TBI gasket.
01-12-2011 05:58 PM
LATECH [QUOTE=ljgriggs]I put a 1982 Chevy 350 into a 1990 K1500 with TBI. I used an adapter plate to mount the throttle body on the stock '82 intake. I kept every electronic component including the EST distributor except for the EGR and the knock sensor.

So you kept all the components for the 1990 , correct?
The 82 distributor and esc wont co mingle well with a 90 TBI
The adapter plate thing will cause a problem for sure,as well as not being able to time it correctly.
My thoughts turned to possibly a plugged exhaust system as well.
But you should put the CORRECT INTAKE on for TBI. Also you need to be sure of the timing.
Dont sweat the knock sensor problem at the moment, but dont forget about it alltogether. If it is not hooked up it wont RETARD the timing as it only sends a signal when a spark knock occurs. The computer only retards the timing 3 degrees at a time when a knock signal occurs.
01-12-2011 05:45 PM
DoubleVision Okay. But did you disconnect the batter afterwards so it would dump the previous settings? You still must know where the timing is. There`s no way around this. Until you know where it`s at your shooting in the dark.
01-12-2011 05:34 PM
ljgriggs
.

I disconnected the EST wire while trying to time the engine by ear...
01-12-2011 05:33 PM
DoubleVision Setting it by ear isn`t good enough. A TBI systems timing can be under 0 and still run. You have to know where the timing is on these engines.
The factory spark advance already greatly limits how much it gives, and if it don`t have enough timing it`s not going to have any power.
Get a knock sensor for it, if it runs into detonation it`s not going to know
to retard the timing which can result in engine damage. If the engine has the stock for the year it was made heads they have large inefficient chambers without swirl ports, which means it`s likely going to want more timing advance. Get some timing tabs, get a light, pull the computer wire and check it with the light. Factory calls for 0, but being it has the older non swirl port heads you can likely give it as much as 8 without issues.
01-12-2011 05:30 PM
matt167 you should take it to someone who knows how to deal with the TBI. you can't time the engine like that. there is a wire that needs disconnected IIRC. and with the knock sensor disconnected. the engine retards the timing as a failsafe.. with the engines cam possibly not being ok for the TBI. you may have more issues
01-12-2011 05:19 PM
ljgriggs
1990 K1500 TBI with 1982 chevy 350 no power

I put a 1982 Chevy 350 into a 1990 K1500 with TBI. I used an adapter plate to mount the throttle body on the stock '82 intake. I kept every electronic component including the EST distributor except for the EGR and the knock sensor. The knock sensor did not work on the old engine and it had more power than this engine does. the engine that I put in had been rebuilt recently. The problem that I am having is when the throttle is opened quickly (such as stomping on the gas) the engine cuts out for a few seconds then picks back up but there is no power going down the road. The old engine was in bad shape and this new engine is in great shape but the old engine had more power than the new one. Things arent adding up for me so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

PS: Timing bracket is not on the timing cover and timing was set by ear and the idle is smooth as silk.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.