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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-16-2011 08:42 AM
TGCheeseman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacksaw
Yeah, those heads and intake stink. Thats why I am looking at the new revised Procomp 190 and the Holley Projection intake.

Is the newly revised Procomp heads the PC3002s. Im looking at buying me a set of them but dont want to buy the bad sets. Any info would help. These will go on a sbc 360 with 10.5;1 comp cams 294 525 solid lift cam, victor jr intake and holley 750 double pumper. Thanks for any info.
01-16-2011 06:40 AM
Hacksaw Guys. This engine I have. Its a 94 TBI 350. It has 194K on it. I believe it still runs, and sounds fine. Maybe I should just give it a good bath, a fresh coat of black, and just install it the way it is for now to get the car running? See what kind of milage its going to get. If it is still decent, then go ahead and freshen it up with the parts mentioned. The two wheel drive 3/4 ton truck it came out of got 18 mpg on the hwy. It has 3.73 gears. Thats why I figured it wasent out of the relm of possibility to get that in a much lighter car with a touch lower rear gear.
01-16-2011 06:32 AM
Hacksaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
Years ago, when I did a built for my cutlass, I was shooting for decent power and fuel economy. I`ll lay out the total spec and idea of it all.
Best mileage achieved with a carb is with all engines as low as the cruise speed RPM can go. So I was shooing for around 1800 RPM at 55. I didn`t achieve it because in the end I stayed with a TH350 instead of a 700R4 as planned. Secondly, I focused on combustion efficientcy and low end torque.
Here`s the package.

1996 Vortec 350 block. Standard bore. Decked .010 Stock Crank.
Stock 5.7 PM rods.
KB 14cc D Dish pistons. .015 down in the hole at top dead center.
.028 thickness GM head gaskets. Total Quench Distance: .043
Compression ratio: 9.3:1
906 casting Vortec heads. Springs matched to cam. Guides clearanced.
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller. .204 duration @.050 .500 lift.
Crane stock replacement hydraulic roller tappets.
Comp Cams Magnum pushrods.
Cloyes Street single roller Vortec timing chain.
Edelbrock Performer Vortec intake.
SMI Rochester Quadrajet. K&N Air Filter.
Hooker super comp headers jet hot coated.
Dual Exhaust, Turbo Mufflers. H pipe.
Rebuilt HEI. Pertronix Flame thrower coil and module.
Moroso Blue Max spiral core 875 ohm spark plug wires.
Serpentine belt system off a 90 Camaro.
TH350 Transmission. Stock Converter.
3.23 posi rear.
For the short while I drove it, it got excellant mileage.
Why I didn`t drive it long was due to a mistake the machinist made.
When he got the block, we mic`d the bore, it checked out at 4.001
and it didn`t have a ridge so we knew it would clean up nicely at standard.
Since he had been doing my machine work for many years I trusted him but I always checked after him. This time I didn`t check the bores.
After the engine broke in it sounded like a diesel from excessive piston slap.
After about 1000 miles I pulled it back out not only because the piston slap but mostly because it smoked and I can`t stand a smoking vehicle. I measured the bores and found them at 4.009. How in the he** he honed it that far out I`ll never know. Even he knew at 4.009 it wouldn`t have sealed up even with forged pistons.
However, I should have taken it back to him and he would have made it right. But I had already invested $5000 in the engine, and I knew I would have to turn around and buy new pistons which I was not going to do. By that time, I had gotten my truck, so I sold most of the pieces at a loss and parked the cutlass and just drove my truck. Lesson I learned was no matter who does the machine work, always check after them. The one time I didn`t was the one time I payed the price. It still ticks me off to this day because that should not have happened. either his Mic was way off or he didn`t check the bore size Or possibly, he knew they were that far over and let it go anyways.
Very nice write up DoubleVision! I remember back in the day, my DD was a 72 Chevelle. It had an old 350, stock heads, Erson cam (that was very rough idel), Weiand 7546 intake, headers, duals, a 650 cfm carter, 3.31 12 bolt posi, and a TH 350. That thing got consistant 15 and 16 mpg, had a TON of milage on it, looked, and sounded great. Not sure why I sold it. Oh yeah I remember...Because back then I had just bought the 70 Chevelle that I have now which is a SS car. Now I remember!!!
01-16-2011 06:26 AM
Hacksaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68NovaSS
The most glaring item is the 4:10 gears, O.D. or not, it hurts.

Hogging out a 700 cfm TBI for more flow, adding 1.6 rockers to open the intakes even wider, on a performance camshaft, seems counter productive when looking for mileage.
Thats why I was asking. A factory GM TBI for the 5.7L flows around 450 cfm. You can buy a a OEM TBI but with the throttle bores bored to 2" and with the throttle shaft, and the throttle body iteslf cleaned up from casting flash. I did not know if it wsa worth it or not? As far as the rockers go, it was also just a thought. I figured that part would probably have to stay 1.5, but thought I would throw it out there.
01-16-2011 01:33 AM
DoubleVision Years ago, when I did a built for my cutlass, I was shooting for decent power and fuel economy. I`ll lay out the total spec and idea of it all.
Best mileage achieved with a carb is with all engines as low as the cruise speed RPM can go. So I was shooing for around 1800 RPM at 55. I didn`t achieve it because in the end I stayed with a TH350 instead of a 700R4 as planned. Secondly, I focused on combustion efficientcy and low end torque.
Here`s the package.

1996 Vortec 350 block. Standard bore. Decked .010 Stock Crank.
Stock 5.7 PM rods.
KB 14cc D Dish pistons. .015 down in the hole at top dead center.
.028 thickness GM head gaskets. Total Quench Distance: .043
Compression ratio: 9.3:1
906 casting Vortec heads. Springs matched to cam. Guides clearanced.
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller. .204 duration @.050 .500 lift.
Crane stock replacement hydraulic roller tappets.
Comp Cams Magnum pushrods.
Cloyes Street single roller Vortec timing chain.
Edelbrock Performer Vortec intake.
SMI Rochester Quadrajet. K&N Air Filter.
Hooker super comp headers jet hot coated.
Dual Exhaust, Turbo Mufflers. H pipe.
Rebuilt HEI. Pertronix Flame thrower coil and module.
Moroso Blue Max spiral core 875 ohm spark plug wires.
Serpentine belt system off a 90 Camaro.
TH350 Transmission. Stock Converter.
3.23 posi rear.
For the short while I drove it, it got excellant mileage.
Why I didn`t drive it long was due to a mistake the machinist made.
When he got the block, we mic`d the bore, it checked out at 4.001
and it didn`t have a ridge so we knew it would clean up nicely at standard.
Since he had been doing my machine work for many years I trusted him but I always checked after him. This time I didn`t check the bores.
After the engine broke in it sounded like a diesel from excessive piston slap.
After about 1000 miles I pulled it back out not only because the piston slap but mostly because it smoked and I can`t stand a smoking vehicle. I measured the bores and found them at 4.009. How in the he** he honed it that far out I`ll never know. Even he knew at 4.009 it wouldn`t have sealed up even with forged pistons.
However, I should have taken it back to him and he would have made it right. But I had already invested $5000 in the engine, and I knew I would have to turn around and buy new pistons which I was not going to do. By that time, I had gotten my truck, so I sold most of the pieces at a loss and parked the cutlass and just drove my truck. Lesson I learned was no matter who does the machine work, always check after them. The one time I didn`t was the one time I payed the price. It still ticks me off to this day because that should not have happened. either his Mic was way off or he didn`t check the bore size Or possibly, he knew they were that far over and let it go anyways.
01-15-2011 06:57 PM
Hacksaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell85
do you drive the vehicle in the winter time? Do you drive it enough to say you will be able to save money by putting money into a rebuilt engine compared to just spending the extra money in gas? A MPFI system will probably be the way to go for fuel mileage, go to a junkyard and try to get a vortech 350 and drop into the car. The tbi heads and intake aren't even worth talking about.
Yeah, those heads and intake stink. Thats why I am looking at the new revised Procomp 190 and the Holley Projection intake.
01-15-2011 06:25 PM
crussell85 do you drive the vehicle in the winter time? Do you drive it enough to say you will be able to save money by putting money into a rebuilt engine compared to just spending the extra money in gas? A MPFI system will probably be the way to go for fuel mileage, go to a junkyard and try to get a vortech 350 and drop into the car. The tbi heads and intake aren't even worth talking about.
01-15-2011 06:11 PM
68NovaSS The most glaring item is the 4:10 gears, O.D. or not, it hurts.

Hogging out a 700 cfm TBI for more flow, adding 1.6 rockers to open the intakes even wider, on a performance camshaft, seems counter productive when looking for mileage.
01-15-2011 05:28 PM
Hacksaw
New engine combo.

Due to the fuel costs about to go through the roof again, I have decided to build a budget engine for my DD 70 Chevelle. My BBC is setting in the corner, and the LS1 is a LONG way from getting into the car. So, since one of my vehicles is a 02 Ford Diesel, and diesel fuel will be $5 a gal this summer, it leaves me no choice. Especially when I have a complete 94 TBI 350 setting there. I am however going to freshen the engine up and add some parts. First of which will be the heads. I know not many people like the Procomp aluminum heads. I have read some better things about their Revised SBC heads. So I am looking at a set of 190cc Procomps. And then something like a Holley Projection TBI intake, Compcams 12-262-4 cam, 1.6 ratio roller rockers, matching valve springs for cam, headers, bored 700 cfm TBI, EBL Flash card in the 94 ECM unit. I am trying to get decent power in my Chevelle and decent MPG. I would like to get at least 17 to 18 mpg. I am running 4.10:1 rear gear, and using the matching built 94 4l60E Auto OD. Any idea what kind of power this will make on a good tune from the ECM? Also, what kind of MPG should I expect? Thanks

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