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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-02-2011 12:15 PM
jessicafd I install the transmission pan gaskets dry,no RTV.Nothing but leaks after this has been done.The black rubber gaskets out of the filter kits are junk,proven leaks with these gaskets and I throw these in the gargage can right away.RTV use on an automtic is sparingly.I have torn apart one this way,some a hole used RTV on the pump gasket and on the pan gaskets.The particles got in the valve body.
02-02-2011 11:16 AM
sbchevfreak
Quote:
I use weatherstrip cement sparingly to stick the gasket to the pan first, then after the cement sets up, I install it w/o any additional sealer. Same thing w/traditional 4-piece oil pan gaskets (except the corners), valve cover gaskets, water pump gaskets, timing cover gaskets- just about any paper or cork or cork/rubber composite gasket, for that matter.
X3!!! I have done it this way for over 15 years, and never had an issue. My only advice to add is ALWAYS glue the gasket to the piece that comes off the engine/transmiaaion! Once it is stck on with weatherstrip adhesive, it can be a bear to remove, so having total open access to the gasket surface is preferable! On a paper gasket, on anything except a transmission, I like to use Permatex Aviation Sealant on the exposed side of the gasket , helps keep future leaks due to shrinkage to a minimum.
02-01-2011 08:42 AM
S10xGN
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
...I use weatherstrip cement sparingly to stick the gasket to the pan first, then after the cement sets up, I install it w/o any additional sealer...
Same here. If I use a cork or paper gasket, I like to rub some wheel bearing grease on the "bare" side, makes future removal a sure thing.

Russ
01-31-2011 02:14 PM
cobalt327 I always disliked seeing a lot of oozing RTV after a repair. Looks like hell and is just unnecessary in many if not most cases, IMHO.

I use weatherstrip cement sparingly to stick the gasket to the pan first, then after the cement sets up, I install it w/o any additional sealer. Same thing w/traditional 4-piece oil pan gaskets (except the corners), valve cover gaskets, water pump gaskets, timing cover gaskets- just about any paper or cork or cork/rubber composite gasket, for that matter.
01-31-2011 09:29 AM
sbcvtc in cork gaskets the best deal is aplly a slightly amount on greas on the surfaces just to make a little seal and dont tight too much i have three transmission sealed in this way and no one leaks any fluid out of the transmission
01-28-2011 04:01 PM
sqzbox
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnsmith10
no, i havent forgot, and i also still havent forgot about hooking you up with the "texas rare bear" wheel stander photo i promised you. i went to visit my dad and never got the chance to scan it. but, ive been telling him that id really like to have him scan it for me so i can send it your way. never fear, i will get it here bud.
Yeah, hated to see it turn left 2/3 of the way down the track in AZ.
Heck of a crash to walk away from. Awesome car! Thanks.

Come to think of it, it was the "rare bear II" that I seen crash. 1972 at Tucson Dragway.
01-28-2011 03:39 PM
tnsmith10
Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
tnsmith, I know your reputation and trust your advice from reading your post's on the subject of trannys. You probably don't remember but you steered me in the right direction in diagnosing my TH350 problem last year.
A new Governor fixed my problem and I didn't have to replace the tranny in front of that massive, heavy transfer case in my truck. For that I am still grateful.

Thanks again. sqzbox
no, i havent forgot, and i also still havent forgot about hooking you up with the "texas rare bear" wheel stander photo i promised you. i went to visit my dad and never got the chance to scan it. but, ive been telling him that id really like to have him scan it for me so i can send it your way. never fear, i will get it here bud.
01-28-2011 01:46 PM
lmsport Trans leaks own me. The only luck I have had with sealing one up is to use the black fiber gasket from Ac-Delco that comes shrink wrapped to a piece of cardboard. I have always thought red or black RTV would just melt if used with hot ATF.
01-28-2011 01:42 PM
sqzbox tnsmith, I know your reputation and trust your advice from reading your post's on the subject of trannys. You probably don't remember but you steered me in the right direction in diagnosing my TH350 problem last year.
A new Governor fixed my problem and I didn't have to replace the tranny in front of that massive, heavy transfer case in my truck. For that I am still grateful.

Thanks again. sqzbox
01-28-2011 10:59 AM
tnsmith10
Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
I've always used Fel Pro myself and never had issues using sealer on the gasket to pan. In the perfect world tnsmith10 you could get away with none
providing your pan bolts haven't been tightened by Magilla gorilla! To use none on the tranny pan to gasket will be ok if the pan is prepped properly by checking the bolt holes, tapping them flat again, having a good clean surface,
and using a torque wrench to keep from over tightening the bolt's.

I figure he's not going to use a torque wrench and if he has to ask how to do it, he doesn't have the experience to do it by feel. And, KMatch, that's why you give the sealer time to set up before you install the pan, so it doesn't squish out from the edges. A 1/8th bead will do the trick and 1/4 in. is too much. Sealer also helps position the gasket that most of the time is folded in the box it comes in which makes it a pain to line up the holes when bolting up the pan. I'm not saying this is the only or correct way but face it, a first timer is looking at a good possibility of leaks from installing the gasket dry.
good point in your 2nd paragraph, but for over 20+ years, as a 2nd generation transmission mechanic and having my father use nothing but cork with NO sealer at all, and just taught to make sure the surfaces are clean and dry. as far as torque goes, with a cork gasket, you can see when the torque is ok on the gasket as it will just slightly start to push out from the side.
where i currently work, we use cork gaskets, and the builder always uses a light setting on his impact to seal the pan. so when i get back from a road test from one of his builds, i always go back over the pan bolts as the cork will settle and the heat will bond the gasket to the surface. i usually get a good 1/4-3/4 turn extra with my speed handle, and do not have pan leak issues.
if sealer is to be used, i highly suggest that it be used by its self and with the same rules i mentioned above, good, clean and dry surface on the pan and case, roughly 3/16 in of sealer evenly spread on the pan and given 10-15 minutes to set. then put up and torque to spec.
01-28-2011 09:07 AM
sqzbox
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnsmith10
dont use anything to help seal the trans pan. make sure both mating surfaces are clean and dry and install. and stay away from the cheap rubber gaskets that come in todays service kits, as the gaskets are junk. a good fiber gasket or cork would be recommended.
I've always used Fel Pro myself and never had issues using sealer on the gasket to pan. In the perfect world tnsmith10 you could get away with none
providing your pan bolts haven't been tightened by Magilla gorilla! To use none on the tranny pan to gasket will be ok if the pan is prepped properly by checking the bolt holes, tapping them flat again, having a good clean surface,
and using a torque wrench to keep from over tightening the bolt's.

I figure he's not going to use a torque wrench and if he has to ask how to do it, he doesn't have the experience to do it by feel. And, KMatch, that's why you give the sealer time to set up before you install the pan, so it doesn't squish out from the edges. A 1/8th bead will do the trick and 1/4 in. is too much. Sealer also helps position the gasket that most of the time is folded in the box it comes in which makes it a pain to line up the holes when bolting up the pan. I'm not saying this is the only or correct way but face it, a first timer is looking at a good possibility of leaks from installing the gasket dry.
01-28-2011 07:04 AM
KMatch Cork?? That's only good for plugging bottles. 30 years of replacing cork gaskets has left a bad taste. Only the cheap after market still uses cork.

In nearly any situation, if you have a smooth surface and a good gasket, sealer will add another layer to fail. It's required in corners where gaskets end or join others, but there is NO reason to use both on a flat surface.

Put a layer of silicone on a cork gasket. Tighten it down. See the sides pooching out? That's the gasket splitting as the silicone adds lubrication to the cork allowing it to split even easier as the pressure of tightening it makes it want to squeeze out the sides.
01-28-2011 04:47 AM
SSedan64 X2^^^, the Duraprene gaskets work well, reusable Fiber type, slightly sticky to help installation.
01-28-2011 04:37 AM
tnsmith10 dont use anything to help seal the trans pan. make sure both mating surfaces are clean and dry and install. and stay away from the cheap rubber gaskets that come in todays service kits, as the gaskets are junk. a good fiber gasket or cork would be recommended.
01-28-2011 03:33 AM
sqzbox
Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com
I usually use sealer on the block side/corners. Makes for cleaner pan removal, if needed, in the future..
I believe he was talking about the tranny pan.

Use the sealer between the gasket and the pan. None on the tranny side of the gasket. Let it set up for a couple of hours so it doesn't squish inside of the tranny when you bolt up the pan.
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