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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-06-2011 11:05 PM
JohnnyK81 Whew.. Thought I was hallucinating or losing my memory.

I AM a little cautious when I turn off the valve (From the compressor to the lines, right at the compressor) and have to turn it on to pressureize hte lines.. I usually go kind of slowly then.
03-06-2011 05:20 PM
Chevelle427Rat
air lines

I have another question about my air line. I have my main line and drops figured out. My question is do I just tee off of my drops to install my filter and regulator? Each drop will have a water trap w/petock. Thanks for anymore info.
03-06-2011 12:00 PM
oldred
Quote:
Originally Posted by hduff
I do not remember from two years ago when I researched it. IIRC, it came from a handbook of tables; I may have read them wrong.

When I looked again on the Internet, I found burst pressures in line with what you guys have been saying.


Probably a mistake caused by miss-matching with the pipe size, easy to do since as the diameter increases the pressure ratings decrease by a lot. This will not be any concern with the pressures and pipe sizes normally used for shop air line.
03-06-2011 11:00 AM
hduff
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyK81
Where did you find this information?
I do not remember from two years ago when I researched it. IIRC, it came from a handbook of tables; I may have read them wrong.

When I looked again on the Internet, I found burst pressures in line with what you guys have been saying.
03-06-2011 10:54 AM
Chevelle427Rat
air lines

Thanks guys! I'm getting started on it today. I just wanted to find out before I started soldering it together so I could exchange it if I had to.
03-06-2011 07:42 AM
oldred Type M is just fine, the only Copper you don't want to use is the soft coiled type but I have even seen that used successfully several times although I would strongly recommend not doing that.
03-06-2011 05:24 AM
Old Fool Type M is fine, and chances are you didn't anneal it if you didn't turn the color of the fittings blackish when you soldered them.

If you were braze the fittings then the pressure rating changes for service temps above 200f. (which you won't see so it doesn't matter)

I assume you soldered with 95/5.

Here is a chart that industry uses:
http://www.alaskancopper.com/pdf/cu/water_tubing_1.pdf

Bottom line, you are fine with your system, now get out there and use it!
03-05-2011 08:52 PM
JohnnyK81
Quote:
Originally Posted by hduff
Type M is marked red and is not recommended since it is only rated for 125 PSI; that won't leave much of a margin for error.
Where did you find this information?
03-05-2011 08:49 PM
JohnnyK81
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevelle427Rat
I was looking up the psi ratings for type m which I bought(3/4"). I found a site that said annealed working pressure is 326psi. I guess I'm a little lost on what to believe cause every site has a different rating. I'm assuming I will be fine with what I got. I just hope it holds up to the two compressor when I finally get one.
I'm not sure where he came up with 125psi?? It's well above that for annealed type M. I'm running 1/2" M pipe (Which granted, will have a higher burst pressure) and I'm running my compressor shutoff at 160psi.
03-05-2011 08:07 PM
Chevelle427Rat
air lines

I was looking up the psi ratings for type m which I bought(3/4"). I found a site that said annealed working pressure is 326psi. I guess I'm a little lost on what to believe cause every site has a different rating. I'm assuming I will be fine with what I got. I just hope it holds up to the two compressor when I finally get one.
03-05-2011 08:54 AM
hduff Copper pipe is lighter and easier to install than black iron pipe, and comes in three types.

Type L is identified with blue markings and K is identified with green markings; both are strong enough pressure-wise to use as air supply lines.

Type M is marked red and is not recommended since it is only rated for 125 PSI; that won't leave much of a margin for error.

Copper is smooth inside which means less pressure drop from friction.
03-05-2011 07:35 AM
timothale
Auto drain

My air compressor is up 10 ft on a platform and I bought a Harbor freight automatic drain that spits out a little water each time it cycles. I also put in a t with a line down so I can manually drain and check the HF stuff. We did a factory Demolition and I got about 200 ft of copper air lines . I used about 100 ft in the shop. When Ford shut down the Calif factory I got a bunch of 2 in iron air line pipe, valves , a lot of filter regulators and some automatic tool lubricators that have very small oil line inside the air host that meters oil each time a tool is used. they are still in boxes. The iron ford pipe was used for over 30 years with very little rust film inside. in most of the factories i've been in including Ford they use refrigerated dryers, Harbor freight now sells a small one , I haven't read any reviews so haven't bought one. A little bit of moisture caused $ 100 damage to my Plasma in a couple seconds, I now have a motor guard separator and the clear plastic ones that change color when it absorbs moisture.
03-05-2011 07:33 AM
Chevelle427Rat
air lines

I totally agree. I drain my tank after each use. For me personally it was the easiest to work with and I didn't have to worry about messing up a measurement on the black pipe and running back and forth to the hardware store getting it re cut and threaded.
03-05-2011 07:23 AM
Old Fool
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
You will never regret using the Copper, it is IMHO, the best choice for several reasons but black iron would have been a good choice also.

As far as the "rusty colored stuff out of the water traps" when using Black iron that is not unusual nor surprising and is probably the reason many fear the iron pipe causing rust flakes in the air stream, this is caused by water standing in the traps causing the rust. There are probably more Black iron piping systems in use than anything else and some of these have been around for a great many years without rust in the air being a problem, people warn about it all the time but I have yet to see it actually be a problem in a properly installed system. Of course using Copper will remove all doubt and the Copper has other advantages also, especially in a short run system, but for those who choose to use Black iron they can do so with the confidence that it is a well proven an accepted choice and will work just fine.
Oldred said it well !

I do not understand the guys that bad mouth black iron piping in an air system, what to they think the tank on their compressor is made of ? I bet they do not drain daily as they should and have a nice rusted surface building away in thier supply tank.
03-05-2011 06:30 AM
Chevelle427Rat
air lines

My total run with drop is around 40ft. I went with 3/4inch cause I'm not trusting my 6.5 hp oilless "crapsman" compressor. It was a gift. When it goes I'm buying a quincy two stage 80 gallon. By the way which quincy upright is a good choice? Thanks for the help.
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