|06-06-2011 08:23 AM|
|RippinRon||Start at the wheel that is furthest away from the master (right rear). Then do the next closest and so on. Even though you didn't touch the rear there could be air in them.|
|06-06-2011 08:03 AM|
|honster919||Thanks for the tips. I am a novice builder with a solid start.|
|06-05-2011 05:55 PM|
|el pollo||Just get a vacuum bleeder kit. Fill the cylinder, mash the pedal slowly down and hold it, hook the vacuum bleeder tool to the open bleeder and suck the fluid into the lines and calipers/wheel cylinder. When the cylinder is almost empty, fill it back up and repeat.|
|06-05-2011 05:15 PM|
|lucaspride||if bleeding the brakes dont work change your master cilinder|
|06-05-2011 03:22 PM|
1 Open the bleeder
2 push pedal 3/4 way down,
3 close bleeder,
4 release pedal,
5 repeat from 1 until there is no air.
Pumping the pedal does nothing but stir up the air and if you push it all the way to the floor you run the risk of damaging the internals of the master.
You may want to be sure all your connections are tight. I have seem them suck air with little to no fluid leakage.
Edit: If it is the original single master cylinder you may also need to bleed the rears as it is all one system
|06-05-2011 12:47 PM|
|06-05-2011 12:11 PM|
Help! Brakes wont build pressure... they did before I replaced the lines?
Just replaced the front rubber brake lines on my 58 Buick Super 2 door. Had pressure... now mush pedal forever. We were bleeding the brakes for like 10 minutes solid. Very minor pressure, had fluid at the end of the line. I know sometimes it take a while to push all lost fluid back to the ends of the line. What do yall think the max time limit of bleeding the brakes would be. I'm probably not being patient enough and the wifes leg is getting tired of pumping the brake.