|07-26-2011 11:39 PM|
|milo||The reason to use a point is it takes some of the metal into itself at the same time...kinda drawing it in while useing it up and shrinking it as well..the highs are "extra" metal that needs to be directed where to go|
|07-26-2011 10:42 PM|
So you guys definitely recommend tapping them down? Seriously, I'm really afraid of the oil canning coming back.
What happens if I don't tap them down, and prime as is... Am I going to have a slightly larger roof made of bondo blow off on the highway? because that's one of my main concerns.
So if I were to tap them down, and build up those spots.. Just the sharp end of a picking hammer? Sharpen it you say? What if I puncture the metal? Egads I'm worrying myself.
|07-26-2011 10:02 PM|
|tech69||great advice. If you don't intend on stripping and are ready for primer but are open to spend a tad more time to make it that much better than something sharp will do the deed. I have a pick hammer with a sharpened tip just for that. I try not to use it but I'm not a master metal guy so once and a while I find something poking up and if I hit it down with something sharp it brings down just that area and nothing around it so you don't have to fill a lot and it won't crack your filler. Then fill and sand with 80 then 180. If you plan on spot filling those areas then top coat again hit the spots with 40 then jam in your skim coat THEN use 80 to 180. Even if you choose not to skim the whole thing again you'll save yourself a lot of time and grief just doing those few spots now. I learned the hard way early on that those poly primers are great but blocking is 100x easier if you do the best you can, cause then you can block most of it off and get it ultra flat.|
|07-26-2011 01:44 PM|
|milo||tap tap with the pointy side|
|07-26-2011 01:39 PM|
|JohnnyK81||Hmm, if you're suggesting I use my center punch on my roof, I think that may spell disaster on this flimsy thing!|
|07-26-2011 12:57 PM|
fast forward to 26:53
|07-26-2011 12:53 PM|
Aha, so you're recommending I do tap those down?.. Now, would you use the round side of a hammer, or the pick side? It still oil cans with pressure now, but waaay better than the last time I had applied filler to it (Since it was bad enough for me to DA all the filler off and start over).
Now what is the correct way to apply the putty I just bought? (USC Blaze Glaze.. It was on sale. Hope it's decent). Surely I don't have to epoxy the bare metal?
Do I actually lay a thickish (1/8) coat down.. Or can I just push it really hard into the scratches?
|07-26-2011 12:47 PM|
Now that there is filler it will hold the panel from oil canning..
It looks really good now. The word bang is to harsh, Tap tap is what those obvious high spots need to help them down easy, then re float one more time with a tight skim coat.
It is a mistake to believe primer will "take care" of what needs more metal/filler work...
Yes , a 2 part putty like *Iceing would be a good skim coat...
|07-26-2011 12:16 PM|
|swvalcon||Just fill your low spots along the edge with more filler going out far enough to make it easy to work filler and block sand down as best you can. Then I would coat the whole side with poly putty and hand board down with 80 grit.And then go with your 2-k primer or a good coat of sprayable poly primer.Do not tap down high spots unless there's something that's way to high. Sometimes it can mess thinks up.|
|07-26-2011 10:28 AM|
Yup, that's one mistake I always make.. But recently I've been tapping down the metal when I hit high spots. But sometimes that leads to oil canning. And on this roof, I'm dreading it doing that.
But, when I go to apply more filler now, should it just be putty (except for the obvious low spot near the door), or more platinum plus.. I am running out of platinum plus though.
(On another side note, is it ok to go over those bare metal patches with putty? I know it is with filler (obviously) but I've never really used putty).
|07-26-2011 10:09 AM|
|ogre||one thing to mention: once you hit metal you really need to apply more filler or you risk getting a low spot. if you sanded with 40 and change to 80 now, you will get low spots. that's why dbm says to go with more filler (if i read him right). get it right before you apply primer will save you a bunch of work block sanding the primer.|
|07-26-2011 09:59 AM|
Ooh I forgot to mention.. So there are still a few low spots (Mostly on the side.. That one will require filler).
And on the rear you can see in the first picture.. Now, would you guys skim the entire roof again (I fear screwing it up if I do that),
OR just apply it to those low spots in the rear?
OR just go right to a putty right now (Is putty even necessary? Can't this platinum plus be used as a putty?) Since the low spots on the rear aren't really that low.. Just low enough the paper didn't touch them?
Thanks again guys!
|07-26-2011 09:40 AM|
Thanks for the quick replies guys.
So it's not a big problem that there is so much filler, and not too much metal showing? You wouldn't bother trying to bang down those high spots and keep going (And risk oil canning)?
The epoxy set for about 5 days.. I then scuffed it with a red scotchbrite, and 180/220 where i could (A lot of low spots.. Hard to get the paper in there). I tried 80 but it just grabbed the epoxy and that was all she wrote.
|07-26-2011 09:08 AM|
I am learning how to work with filler myself. I came across this (as well as many other great links on this site)
I think block sanding with a guide coat would be my next step to help get it straight. In the link, it is talked about how to determine if there is a high spot and what to do with it.
|07-26-2011 06:02 AM|
How long has the epoxy set before applying filler?
The passenger side looks good. You might want to consider buzzing over it with some 80 grit and then apply some poly primer like slick sand. A couple coats over that and you should be able to block it smooth. This is where poly primer plays and extremely important role in my book. Spray it on even and block it out letting ONLY the pressure of the block do the work. You dont have to worry about trying to glaze that entire large aread and blocking out your spreader marks on an already weakened surface. Can be difficult and challenging to a novice to say the least.
That's how i do most roofs that are in this shape. A rough fill with filler..the rest is done with poly.
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