|09-03-2011 04:57 PM|
|09-03-2011 04:38 PM|
|09-03-2011 04:37 PM|
That set-up should be comparatively easy to build headers for and I would not hesitate to attempt it, the comments I made about how hard it would be was assuming a normal engine bay.
Now pardon me while I slobber all over my keyboard, you have my dream engine! Of all the new high-tech power plants out there I would not trade that old cammer for a dozen of them, congrats on finding a real classic!
|09-03-2011 04:19 PM|
A good way to spend time on . my 55chev w/409 had to be modfied to fit . At least I had a start
|09-03-2011 03:27 PM|
There is an excellent video tutorial on custom header building here:
|09-03-2011 03:25 PM|
|roysaric||yeah 2 1/4 tube sounds rite. but there isnt any sohc engines with circle ports. the original cammers have D ports ant the fake cammers have upside down D ports. My heads are cast iron with magnesium valve covers all OEM ford 427 SOHC.|
|09-03-2011 03:06 PM|
Lol.yea i was just be a funny type a guy...
Now i understand wanting a 2" primary tube,do a search for headers for them,i remember seeing people make them especialy for the cammer,i think it depends on if you have the round or D ports as to what size, if memory serves me right they used a 2 1/4" for the round ports.
Reason is my father's best freind in Delaware has a Pop's Motorports FE427 converted to the SOHC in his..what his wife calls"The Midlife Crisis" 67 fastback mustang..lol
That's what your's looks like since it has the aluminum heads.
Whatever route you take,it'll cost some extra coin,if it was me,i'd try to find someone who makes or will build a set of block hugger type for it,probably be the cheapest route and look alot better than a pieced/welded together set exposed like it will be on that.
|09-03-2011 02:54 PM|
Here's how you can do it with elbows and straight pieces.
Takes alot of time.
|09-03-2011 12:47 PM|
|roysaric||heres a pic|
|09-03-2011 12:28 PM|
Quote:Originally Posted by SuthnCustoms
WOW..2" header tubes?..are you building a 1500 c.i. diesel?..lol.
lol???hahaha......not trying to be a smart a**
I see its not as easy as I thought. But If any of you had a 1966 ford 427 SOHC in a 1932 ford 3 window coupe what would you use for Tubeing size? or is there headers already made that come close to those dimensions of the cammer?http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...iSSecG-37EPwPw
|09-03-2011 11:55 AM|
|oldred||The suggestion to just buy bends is an excellent one and that's what I used for the headers I have built. Building headers can be extremely challenging unless it is an open engine bay with few, or no, obstacles to work around and definitely is not a project to "learn-as-you-go" about tubing bending/welding. That's certainly not to say you can't do it but it can be a very intimidating job to say the least.|
|09-03-2011 11:38 AM|
crush bending ss pipe would be a crime. mandrel bent pipe is the way to go. we do low volume production bending at our shop. even then our mandrel tube bender cost $65,000. even then unless you know the exact degree bend and rotation for every bend, you need to cut bends and straight pipe to make it work. you can't tweak a mandrel bend, once the mandrel is withdrawn the bend is what it is.
your better off buying bends and straight pipe to achieve your goal. a good tig weld will make the bends seamless looking. we do most of our custom exhaust work this way.
409 ss will rust. 304 ss will not.
this is a custom header for a turbo installation. headers would be done the same way. very labor intensive. you need to carefully choose your weld path to make every weld doable.
|09-03-2011 11:32 AM|
I was thinking the same thing, this is one place where bigger is not always better and it sounds as if his low end will be all but non-existent unless he is building a real brute!
Southern has it pegged and unless this set of headers is only the first of many then buying, or even building, a tubing bender may not be cost effective.
|09-03-2011 11:11 AM|
Your best bet is to find a 3" die with the radius you want and build a bender like the pro tools or JD2 or 3 models,plans can be had pretty easy for them but you'll have to "up" the measurements for 3",any i've seen only handle 2-2 1/2" tube/pipe.
You'll also have to definetly go hydraulic on it,i doubt you can bend the stainless by hand unless you are using very thin wall which would be what is best for exhaust...
again,,what is the wall thickness of it..?..and is it pipe or tube size?...pipe will measure exactly 3" inside the pipe..tube will measure exactly 3" outside the tube,,you must know this when buying a bender or die for it,there is a big difference and if using a pipe die on tube or vise versa,it will kink and bend flat.
If it's thin wall,look into a mandrel bender for bigger exausts for diesels,they are common to be 3" or bigger,my 2000 F250 7.3 was 3" and 3 1/2" factory,upgraded to stainless 4" straight through from magnaflow,and i see alot of 5" and 6" exhaust sold for them,maybe copy the designs or find one used for sale,but i have a feeling that'll be almost impossible to find in your price range
A regular bender of any sorts will kink and deform the bends in common thin wall exhaust,so a mandrel type would be needed to make nice bends.
But again we don't know what size wall thickness you are dealing with.....
Don't do like some people i've seen try...never heat stainless up with a torch to bend,it'll crack and split,plus make it prone to rusting easily
|09-03-2011 10:58 AM|
Don't confuse a tubing bender with a pipe bender, a pipe bender is for heavy wall pipe and will just ruin thin wall tubing. Be prepared for some serious sticker shock when you price the equipment needed to properly bend the tubing you are talking about (exhaust pipe is actually tubing and not pipe in the practical sense), just one set of dies for one size can cost hundreds.
If something like this this is what you are thinking of it will not work.
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